shrike

Could you put the BOV on the hot or cold side of the intercooler before the Maf? 

Id say supercharged map would pull a lot of timing due to heat-soak and hot air being pumped by the supercharger so would be conservative right? 

Whats a bulldozer ethrottle cable thing worth?

If it was me i'd do the syncros now while its all out and apart, I hate pulling East to West AWD gearboxs out tho :p

Any plans to go back to DBW later on?

Great progress, how far from firing it up again? just the fuel rail machining?

Surely someone could 3d print you a badge?

@Rhyscar sounds like an incentive to do a custom subframe or to clearance the existing one :p, a dimple die hole at the location of the headers might do it

Any thoughts to go actual electric power-steering later on? ie Corolla, Prius, echo, 86

D series single cam do like 40psi right :p

Any plans on an EK front conversion on the orthia? 

12 minutes ago, yoeddynz said:

I saw that one bit I couldn't decipher what he was trying to say. Thanks for clearing it up and it'll be duly noted. 

No driving in the rain. 

No driving with small balls. 

Driving an untested semi tuned car in the rain is pretty ballsy to me :p keen to see how much more you progress and interest to see dyno results if you ever get round to it

Thinking this and @RomanCarina need a photo shoot/ maybe a cheeky drag race

What does the Imp weigh now it's all done?

Surely someone on here has access to cad software that could analyse your file for stress etc if you sent it to them? 

Have you looked at how the 2GR adapter that MR2 guy uses is designed? I know that's cncd tho

Edit ignore me, not the style I thought it was haha

https://frankensteinmotorworks.squarespace.com/shop/p/2gr-velocity-stack-intake-manifold

@Roman the stationary cooling system test vids don't seem to be loading :p

Bet your fizzing sounds nice and crisp love the intake noise

Great progress looking forward to seeing more graphs

22 minutes ago, Muncie said:

Gave it a stab in 3rd today in Mexico.... im going have to be careful turbo loves a bit of load on it bloody hauls! From zero to needing public transport to work very quickly.

And thats still on low boost yeah (4psi)? are you going to run a boost controller or just change springs in the wastegate?

Haven't done tig in ages (Highschool ish) and don't own a machine currently (My unimig does scratch start which I am hopeless at so don't even attempt) and my mig skills aren't amazing (look at my fake evo thread ha)

But you are doing amazing and are definitely getting better with practice, like a lot of us here a grinder and paint make us the welders we aint. Even with stainless heat coating or wrapping hides alot and if it penetrates and doesn't leak thats a win in my book :p

Nothing wrong with function over form

Might be worth a brain storm with people that commented about your collector design in this thread before you send the next file off to be made, just to see if there is any other ideas to make your life easier

Loving the progress, and im frothing with you for this thing to be doing stationary cooling tests

Anglia4 did suggest cutting it to make welding easier as well

Could always make it a interference press fit :p assuming they expand in the same rate when heated haha (im joking)

1 hour ago, Muncie said:

Yes! house smells like hot engine but the devcon set like glass! Rock solid.

It actually idles too and revs out happily now for amount of boost this is running tune is spot on according to those that know. 

It grips through first but breaks loose in second gear so that'll do for now or things will break.

So idle issue all solved? That's awesome news if so ♡ glad you got to the bottom of it 

Whats the weakest link atm? 

Estimated butt dyno power figures?

@kprwasn't sure what thread to throw this in or if youd be interested but Barry has the below for sale

Can't remember if your running factory pistons or not

Keen to see how the rest of the exhaust comes out and great to see more progress

No chance of 3d printing a complete manifold? or is it silly costs?

Assuming you have done everything to prevent the cam failure from happening again now youve gone to the later model parts etc?

I really need to learn CAD, some of this stuff is super cool

Time to make some wood gas?

Just now, Muncie said:

Have you considered a 2zz..... oops I mean a turbo ecotec instead.

1NZ the world?

Can always do steering relocation and conversions but adds complexity 

Steer by wire? 

A 4pot doesn't feel right in a crown otherwise I'd be talking K24 or if sticking to Toyota a 2ARFE ideally turboed. 

Barra has been mentioned but definitely an option as lots of support and parts etc around

Tipping a boxer wouldn't fit between the rails? The EZ30 isn't a bad motor if that's your cup of tea

14 minutes ago, kws said:

 

Got ya that makes more sense 

Yes if you had a ring with 60mm OD that was the thickness of the Brake Disc/Rotor and an ID of the Hub at that height that would center it fine

If you have to make something you could make it so you could also center the wheels on them as well so it would be 

56.1mm od for wheels to 60mm od for Rotor bore and Inner ID of 56.1mm?

But if your happy with the wheels being studcentric no reason to complicate it

28 minutes ago, kws said:

I think I follow; I considered something like this, basically a hubcentric spacer behind the rotor? The problem i came up against was the clearance from the back of the rotor isn't enough to get anything through from behind (because of the 60mm step just behind the rotor), so i'd need to insert a hub centering ring (like you use on aftermarket wheels) from the front of the rotor to take up the space.

The problem with doing it from the front is That it could cause issues locating the wheels onto the hub centre? 

Any reason why it's stepped? 

If your spacing it out 5mm anyway you could make up on a lathe a tapered sleeve that makes the hub 60mm where the rotor bolts on, ideally you'd start at say 65mm at the bottom on the hub face with the ID of 60mm and then the 5mm up you'd make the OD 60mm and the ID tapered to suit the hub 

Not sure if I'm explaining that well 

Would make the hub 60mm to the height you need and then still allow the correct hub bore to suit your wheels 

@yoeddynzdo you understand what I'm trying to say :p 

To simplify 

ID at the bottom to suit the Hub OD of 60mm 

OD say 65mm or as wide as you can get it to the edge of the drive flange 

keep that OD for the 5mm spacing you need to space the brake disc then reduces to 60mm to fit the brake disc bore 

ID tapers as needed to suit the taper of the Hub centre 

I'd have it flush with the Disc hat face as long as you have enough height of the hub center to center your wheels on if not then you could step it down to the factory size after the disc for the height you need 

I'd start with a 70 or 75mm solid bar and machine it down from there 

Makes sense in my head lol

If you can find an off the shelf Hub centering ring that you use on wheels that are different bore to the hub you can put them behind the brake rotor

Hope the below makes sense, ive done this on my AE111 for both front and rear rotors without issue, wouldn't be hard to turn up on the Lathe either if there isnt an off the shelf option

Id probably make the black lower portion go out to the edge of the hub, could do these out of aluminum, or stainless 

Edit if it has a taper might may sense to make a tapered locating ring on the lathe