shrike

Finally managed to set the idle/Bliss/Timing on it, still pretty rowdy without a muffler.

Managed to get it sitting pretty stable at roughly 750rpm when warm, takes a minute when started to get upto idle and almost wants to die even when warm.

Got the ignition timing set at 10 degrees BTDC, however that was with the cas as retarded as I could get it.

Probably should have left it alone however have now flipped the cas inner part around (180 degree) so will redo the timing another day and see if that gives me better adjustment, could be that the wiring/ecu reads the cas the other way around.

I did follow the manual on how to set up the cas but I am not using the factory ecu for this car (RVR ecu) etc and there is guides that outline it needs setting the other way depending on application

Also helps when I read the crank cover markings right and don't try and set it at 15 degrees on the timing gun thinking its at TDC (0) :S

15degress is fine for this setup but trying to keep it at factory of 10

Really need to finish the exhaust so it has a muffler also managed to kerb the rims when I was turning it around so not overly happy with myself.

Still very much needs a wheel alignment and the suspension adjusted properly, probably should find some factoryish rims and tyres for it so I can put the factory suspension in

No pics as I am lazy

What feeling system does the 1kz use? My understanding was that newer Diseals couldn't use chip oil.

Whats the lead time on the bike throttles being in your hands?

9 minutes ago, ~Slideways~ said:

My bike ITB's actually did have a DBW set up but it was on the 2nd set of throttles which simple don't seal like the 'real' set do. 

Yep there is, he's got a build thread too. Really cool swap, I reckon it'd need a cert simply because it looks like a different engine though. Probably the same with ITB's too unless you have a real lenient wof place. 

Sorry for thread spam but depending on how you do it could always swap back to factory intake for wofs lol. Used to have a mate that took the turbo off his skyline for every wof haha

Actually if they are in a box not sure if some places would even notice

29 minutes ago, ~Slideways~ said:

I've been wondering about this recently, the cost of ecu + tune versus fuel saving based on the 30 year old tech/tune (no oxygen sensor and basic AFM, non-variable TPS etc). 

I'll hopefully be back to dailying my 1.6 MX5 within the next few months after I paint it. But the funny thing is its worse on fuel than my 2L 3sge Celica (St202 with acis, which seems to work pretty well) for the same drive. I thought maybe it was just because of the way I drove the MX5, but a work mate here has had a few and he reckons they are all surprisingly thirsty.

I have a Speeduino to go in, whether I do that with the stock intake or with ITB's I'm not sure. It would be interesting to see what sort of fuel economy increase I could get.

They have a lowish 9.4:1 compression ratio so it would be worth shaving the head too.

 

Shame Speeduino doesn't have DBW options currently or you could get some Motorbike ITBs like Roman 

Wasn't there a guy on here who built a mx5 with a later model head and high compression?

Able to get a tap in and put a grub screw in with some sealant? 

1 minute ago, Roman said:

Yeah E85 isnt very viable anymore here.

However it wont necessarily make any more power on E85. 

It's not knock limited on 98 anyway, so more timing with E85 wont necessarily help. 

 

Ahhh ok didn't realize you didn't have knock limit on 98 (considering the compression :p) might be a slight bump from lower intake temps but I doubt it would do much and yeah if no E85 available no point 

Anyone on here got a still that can sling you some Azotrope :p make your own hahaha

20 hours ago, cletus said:

that runs 13s and also has very good ecom on pertol 

@Romanhave I missed it or have you already done an e85 tune and maxed out timing?

The ones for 149? Out of a wrecker in NSW

Was looking at them before, do they include the plug for the dbw motor? (Tps had one) buy no injectors etc

I'm also curious how they mount do they use a vband setup or? (Guessing could always weld onto them as needed)

Yamaha R6 from 2006 forward have 41mm ride by wire ITB 

Few mentions of issues with the 06-07 ones so maybe look at the 08-16 models 

Believe the 08 up also have dual injectors as well

1 hour ago, Roman said:

Got 4.02l per 100km on way to Auckland today. 

Better economy then my CBR500RA I get 4.5L per 100km with mixed driving 

27 minutes ago, keltik said:

I believe those m5 ones grenade constantly which is why they are so easy to buy.

Good to know glad I didn't buy one then :p keen to see what DBW ITB pop up for cost effective pricing

Last E throttle/DBW I was looking at were the BMW option for ITB

https://www.efihardware.com/products/3236/dbw-actuator-motor-bmw

They come on M3 E46, and M5 BMW's from memory

Bike wise not sure these days but alot more models have come out with e throttle, pretty much anything 1000cc plus might be worth looking at

1 hour ago, Roman said:

Okay soooo 
The wool tufts dont go mostly up or mostly down, just mostly just nearly flat towards the base of the windscreen but with lots of wiggling around. 
Maybe because the open area is so large, it can just equalize the pressure top and bottom no problem. 
Doesnt seem particularly conclusive, but maybe it needs some more context with more dangly bits on surrounding areas.
Or maybe I should just fit a pressure sensor under the bonnet instead, as that's the real issue (or not)

I think the real issue is that you don't have enough wool tufts over the whole car, and your current results are clearly inconclusive

19 minutes ago, Roman said:

I think "it depends"

If you have a long flat bonnet and a steep upright windscreen. Then its more likely to be a high pressure area there. Which is where cowl induction works good.

Echo has a tiny short bonnet, and a very shallow angle from bonnet to windscreen. Similar to the rally car I posted which has its vents right up the back.

What I was thinking is that I will retain the lower half of the drip tray, and add some one way flaps like in baffled sumps or radiator shrouds.

So they only open if pressure in the engine bay is higher than the outlet area.

But for starters I can just have the whole tray out and see what happens with some wool tufts or a manometer.

https://youtu.be/iK23hiI4m-E?t=50

So arp head studs and new gaskets the plan?

Soooo keep winding up the boost until you run out of fuel or something lets go then?

23 hours ago, Roman said:

Another issue I've been thinking about for when I finally get to a trackday.
Is to try tame some of the floaty feeling of driving a bean bag shaped car at 180kph+
Currently all of the engine bay air has to go out underneath.
The drip tray and windscreen wiper area unbolts, so its easy to remove a big chunk that should flow a bit of air out even if it's not an ideal location. 

Might do some wool tuft tests and try see where the air wants to go when the whole panel is missing.

I am guessing that the engine bay air will mainly want to try escape past the wing mirrors rather than going over the top.

Front air diffuser time?

Something like what Barry has?

Could also pick up a spare hood to put some holes in and do ducting to bring air up and out through them (spare hoods only 4 bolts right?)

Do you have enough space to do a duct from the radiator and out the bonnet?

Is there an air duct/dam that goes from the bumper to the airbox/radiator? also having a heat shield separating the pod from the rad may help with temps?

Is there enough space to duct the space with the airbox also out a bonnet hole?

You could also look at an under tray, though thinking about it now unless you made something that just slid in and out it may be too time consuming to just swap over for a track day

Would sealing it in a vacuum bag help? Also if it doesnt tap, im assuming youll just use insets?

I wonder how much hp the exhaust will get you. 

Extra 20hp?

@Romanwhats the trap speed your getting? are the rear wheels the lightest/smallest option? Whats the max speed space savers are rated at and are they a lighter option

@Romansounds like you need to get another Prius engine from the wreckers and build the bottom end with beefier rods and some other go fast mods (cleaning up casting marks etc etc) just don't add any speed holes

Good point on the Nos dry shot, typically when I've seen/done Nos its always been when injectors are getting close to the limit on 4 cylinder turbo setups (2200cc injectors) in saying that these days dual injectors per cylinder is more common

I forget this is N/A sometimes, effectively you've gotten double the factory horsepower which in most cases would be a bar of boost to achieve (general rule of thumb obviously) 

Didn't realize the cost of it in NZ was that nuts, its about $14 per 500g here (but can get cheaper options if buying in bulk etc) though the states is like $3.5usd a lb or $1.70usd a lb if you buy 60Lb at a time

Though I guess if you work it out then at $14 a run its not that cheap as i'd expect you to use a lb per run and $140 per refill of a 10lb bottle isn't cheap

Keen to see the exhaust gains tbh

Id say what about pre intake C02 cooling but as your running ITB it wouldn't be that easy, dry ice on the intake manifold between runs? :p

Still got sound deadening?

So exhaust and a 50 wetshot of Nitrous and aim for a 12.9?

3 hours ago, Stu said:

*cough* NOS *cough*

Would have to be a wet shot into the throttle body's right? 50 shot to start and then move up? 

Any thoughts on tweaking the suspension some more?

Also massive congratulations impressive result, thats with full street trim as well yeah? can always lose some more weight

Interesting thread on 4-1 vs 4-2-1 obviously on a yaris rather then an echo but I suspect youll have similar space constants.

Also depends if your going to run a cat as well

https://yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6941

https://www.andysautosport.com/products/dc_sports__SHC4401.html

Great results on the dyno run

16 hours ago, Muncie said:

So it's single scroll, 2.5" v band mount, was curious if it would be better to run dual gates or not eg one for each bank of the v6.

One massive gate would make plumbing far easier. 

Aiming to start at 14-15 psi with any luck that'll be pretty peppy the block will take that no problem. 

Typically single scroll you just run one and as close to the turbo as possible, twin scroll you generally want to run one per scroll. (with twin scroll you can get away with one per pipe if youve merged pipes before hand)

Assuming your going to do a 3-1 for each bank and then merge two pipes into the vband flange? (if so youll need to do the gate so it has gas from both pipes able to flow into it.

There is a balance between flow and velocity ideally you want more gas velocity to help spool the turbo and then good flow out of the turbo, but you don't want it too restrictive as that can cause back pressure etc

Alternatively I am still a fan of putting the gate on the turbine housing but it can be a pain for packaging (and welding cast isn't fun) 

Main thing with any wastegate is you want the exhaust to be able to easily flow through it when its open and divert away from the turbo, can have the biggest gate in the world but if doesn't have a good flow of gas going to it then its not that effective.

The chinese wastegates can be ok if you dissemble them and do QC/ reassemble them correctly, know a few people who have replaced diaphragms etc with genuine options as well.

Obviously if your happy to spend the coin genuine is the way to go

Cool so 1bar spring in the gate it is then :p

Hope that makes sense, and I am no expert but just things ive picked up over time