shrike

Finally managed to set the idle/Bliss/Timing on it, still pretty rowdy without a muffler. Managed to get it sitting pretty stable at roughly 750rpm when warm, takes a minute when started to get upto idle and almost wants to die even when warm. Got the ignition timing set at 10 degrees BTDC, however that was with the cas as retarded as I could get it. Probably should have left it alone however have now flipped the cas inner part around (180 degree) so will redo the timing another day and see if that gives me better adjustment, could be that the wiring/ecu reads the cas the other way around. I did follow the manual on how to set up the cas but I am not using the factory ecu for this car (RVR ecu) etc and there is guides that outline it needs setting the other way depending on application Also helps when I read the crank cover markings right and don't try and set it at 15 degrees on the timing gun thinking its at TDC (0) :S 15degress is fine for this setup but trying to keep it at factory of 10 Really need to finish the exhaust so it has a muffler also managed to kerb the rims when I was turning it around so not overly happy with myself. Still very much needs a wheel alignment and the suspension adjusted properly, probably should find some factoryish rims and tyres for it so I can put the factory suspension in No pics as I am lazy

What feeling system does the 1kz use? My understanding was that newer Diseals couldn't use chip oil.

Whats the lead time on the bike throttles being in your hands?

Sorry for thread spam but depending on how you do it could always swap back to factory intake for wofs lol. Used to have a mate that took the turbo off his skyline for every wof haha Actually if they are in a box not sure if some places would even notice

Shame Speeduino doesn't have DBW options currently or you could get some Motorbike ITBs like Roman Wasn't there a guy on here who built a mx5 with a later model head and high compression?

Able to get a tap in and put a grub screw in with some sealant?

Ahhh ok didn't realize you didn't have knock limit on 98 (considering the compression :p) might be a slight bump from lower intake temps but I doubt it would do much and yeah if no E85 available no point Anyone on here got a still that can sling you some Azotrope :p make your own hahaha

@Romanhave I missed it or have you already done an e85 tune and maxed out timing?

The ones for 149? Out of a wrecker in NSW Was looking at them before, do they include the plug for the dbw motor? (Tps had one) buy no injectors etc I'm also curious how they mount do they use a vband setup or? (Guessing could always weld onto them as needed)

Yamaha R6 from 2006 forward have 41mm ride by wire ITB Few mentions of issues with the 06-07 ones so maybe look at the 08-16 models Believe the 08 up also have dual injectors as well

Better economy then my CBR500RA I get 4.5L per 100km with mixed driving

Good to know glad I didn't buy one then :p keen to see what DBW ITB pop up for cost effective pricing

Last E throttle/DBW I was looking at were the BMW option for ITB https://www.efihardware.com/products/3236/dbw-actuator-motor-bmw They come on M3 E46, and M5 BMW's from memory Bike wise not sure these days but alot more models have come out with e throttle, pretty much anything 1000cc plus might be worth looking at

I think the real issue is that you don't have enough wool tufts over the whole car, and your current results are clearly inconclusive

https://youtu.be/iK23hiI4m-E?t=50

So arp head studs and new gaskets the plan? Soooo keep winding up the boost until you run out of fuel or something lets go then?

Front air diffuser time? Something like what Barry has? Could also pick up a spare hood to put some holes in and do ducting to bring air up and out through them (spare hoods only 4 bolts right?) Do you have enough space to do a duct from the radiator and out the bonnet? Is there an air duct/dam that goes from the bumper to the airbox/radiator? also having a heat shield separating the pod from the rad may help with temps? Is there enough space to duct the space with the airbox also out a bonnet hole? You could also look at an under tray, though thinking about it now unless you made something that just slid in and out it may be too time consuming to just swap over for a track day

Would sealing it in a vacuum bag help? Also if it doesnt tap, im assuming youll just use insets?

I wonder how much hp the exhaust will get you. Extra 20hp?

@Romanwhats the trap speed your getting? are the rear wheels the lightest/smallest option? Whats the max speed space savers are rated at and are they a lighter option

@Romansounds like you need to get another Prius engine from the wreckers and build the bottom end with beefier rods and some other go fast mods (cleaning up casting marks etc etc) just don't add any speed holes Good point on the Nos dry shot, typically when I've seen/done Nos its always been when injectors are getting close to the limit on 4 cylinder turbo setups (2200cc injectors) in saying that these days dual injectors per cylinder is more common I forget this is N/A sometimes, effectively you've gotten double the factory horsepower which in most cases would be a bar of boost to achieve (general rule of thumb obviously) Didn't realize the cost of it in NZ was that nuts, its about $14 per 500g here (but can get cheaper options if buying in bulk etc) though the states is like $3.5usd a lb or $1.70usd a lb if you buy 60Lb at a time Though I guess if you work it out then at $14 a run its not that cheap as i'd expect you to use a lb per run and $140 per refill of a 10lb bottle isn't cheap Keen to see the exhaust gains tbh Id say what about pre intake C02 cooling but as your running ITB it wouldn't be that easy, dry ice on the intake manifold between runs? :p Still got sound deadening?

So exhaust and a 50 wetshot of Nitrous and aim for a 12.9?

Would have to be a wet shot into the throttle body's right? 50 shot to start and then move up? Any thoughts on tweaking the suspension some more? Also massive congratulations impressive result, thats with full street trim as well yeah? can always lose some more weight

Interesting thread on 4-1 vs 4-2-1 obviously on a yaris rather then an echo but I suspect youll have similar space constants. Also depends if your going to run a cat as well https://yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6941 https://www.andysautosport.com/products/dc_sports__SHC4401.html Great results on the dyno run

Typically single scroll you just run one and as close to the turbo as possible, twin scroll you generally want to run one per scroll. (with twin scroll you can get away with one per pipe if youve merged pipes before hand) Assuming your going to do a 3-1 for each bank and then merge two pipes into the vband flange? (if so youll need to do the gate so it has gas from both pipes able to flow into it. There is a balance between flow and velocity ideally you want more gas velocity to help spool the turbo and then good flow out of the turbo, but you don't want it too restrictive as that can cause back pressure etc Alternatively I am still a fan of putting the gate on the turbine housing but it can be a pain for packaging (and welding cast isn't fun) Main thing with any wastegate is you want the exhaust to be able to easily flow through it when its open and divert away from the turbo, can have the biggest gate in the world but if doesn't have a good flow of gas going to it then its not that effective. The chinese wastegates can be ok if you dissemble them and do QC/ reassemble them correctly, know a few people who have replaced diaphragms etc with genuine options as well. Obviously if your happy to spend the coin genuine is the way to go Cool so 1bar spring in the gate it is then :p Hope that makes sense, and I am no expert but just things ive picked up over time