shrike

4 minutes ago, gibbon said:

that trademe listing is pickup only unfortunately, you'd think it wouldn't be too hard to post

I'm leaning towards the nzefi coils as they're cheap, local, and do away with the ignitor as well. Just gotta work out where they'd fit! and whether the power FC will be cool with them 

The Vinnyfab kit uses the NZEFI coils

Vinnyfab kit

They also sell just the loom/leads on there own

Vinnyfab Loom/leads

That's a bugger on the TM ones wanting pickup, oldschool freight?

24 minutes ago, gibbon said:

I was looking at sakebomb and vinnyfab plug n play options but both cases I would say the actual hardware makes up less than half the price, the rest being a big premium on the convenience of not having to do too much work to install them. My coils are all in spec but I'm sure they're original, I guess I might just relocate them for now so if they do crap out eventually they'll be easier to replace 

Ahh yes so SakeBomb is in USD so similar pricing to what I was trying to find more locally 

That TM link for buy now $77 might be useful if they are in spec as spares depends if you want to gamble tho 

At least the ones you have being in spec helps

47 minutes ago, gibbon said:

so with the new air seperator cap on, the cooling system has finally been able to build to operating pressure. which of course means all of the leaks have now become apparent. Including the water lines that somebody secured with zip ties, wonderful 

I ditched the plastic AST at the advice of everyone and fitted an aluminum one as the original one is apparently a hand grenade 

Then it developed a misfire, and then I got too cute moving the thing around the workshop in small trips and inevitably flooded it, lesson learned. So. Changed the plugs (very wet and very worn), dribbled some ATF into the chambers, and it fired back into life with a hiss and a roar, or rather, a miss and a roar and a LOT of smoke. Decided to pull the leads off and check them. #2 leading was having none of it

yeah that'll be the misfire 

Mazda had the forethought to put the coils in the dumbest fucking place on earth, so I had to pull lots of bits off to get to them. My wife walked past at one stage, saw the mess and said "I guess that's the end of that then isn't it"

One silver lining is that I was able to take the throttle body off and get a real good look at the fast idle adjustment (which is on the back side of the throttle body because it was designed by the same guy who mounted the coils). found a wear notch in the idle stop cam which probably caused some of the weird surging idle, dressed it out.

I'm conscious that with the age of the car, anything still original on it is probably getting towards the end of it's first life. I don't really want to just clean out that coil and use it as-is. I definitely don't want to put them back in that location. The stock coils are apparently good enough, but they're pretty pricey new from mazda. And the engine bay is cluttered, there's no really obvious candidate for relocation. So again I'm staring down the barrel of spending lots of money modifying a car that I never really intended to go crazy with, because the alternative is spending lots of money building stock problems back into it

I'd add more (not particularly interesting) photos but I'm not savvy enough to resize them. 

Yeah OEM coils are expensive :O I looked on both Rockauto and Amayama, plus some rough googling based on part numbers (for brand new options)

Could possibly DIY something using the below products as inspiration as well

TM has this right now

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/mazda/electrics/listing/5056499743

Few options aftermarket ie R35/VR28 coilpacks (require wiring) found a guy who also has a power FC and got them working, (comment is they are hard to service)

https://www.raceonly.com.au/product/rx7-fd3s-bolt-on-pnp-ign-1a-coil-harness-gen-3/

Seems to be a good plug and play recommendation but is pricey also

Something like this with some custom sparkplug leads and some wiring could be an option

https://www.nzefi.com/product/high-performance-4-coil-ignition-compact-kit/

AEM also do smart coils but seem to only be a thing in the UK

Might be worth testing them as per below to see if they are savable

I don't think looking at the picture of the plug you showed that you need to go to a colder range plug 

Got any pics of the other plugs?

Engines not running any hotter yeah? 

Other then looking fouled from running rich and the gap opening up they look ok 

Gap opening up over time is normal

If it was me and your comfortable that your tunes now sorted as in not super rich. I'd either fully clean the ones up you've got so they look as new as possible and see if they foul/look rich 

Or put a new set in and do the same 

Fouling can also indicate your running too cold a plug, if your running the factory heat range

Which I think is a 6 on both the ecotechs and the L67 supercharged 

I wouldn't go to a hotter plug with a turbo as that risks pre ignition and melting things.

I'd be diagnosing why your not getting Cylinder temps high enough for factory plugs (more timing/leaning it out may help) or you might just need to load it up more and drive it in anger haha

Also not a spark plug expert 

https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/v6-turbo-and-iridium-sparkplugs.158803/ might be of interest

2 hours ago, Stu said:

So, yeah, when I said GTX2867 I actually meant G25...   

Which does mean the Starlet will get an upgrade sooner rather than later.

At the moment the 86 still has the T50 in it but I have a J160 ready to go but will worry about all that once its actually on the road.

Done the Circlip mod on the J160?

On 05/11/2024 at 10:09, BlownCorona said:

i can assist with a generic bosch DBW throttle body. 

What kind of sizing?

I could be interested

25 minutes ago, Stu said:

Me too! If KPR's Hilux is anything to go by it should be fun especially in a light car.

Ive got a GTX2867 series 2 turbo sitting on the shelf which is the next size up from whats on the Hilux. I havent quite decided if it will make it onto the 86 or upgrade to the starlet then buy something else. It will depend a bit on the budget at the time I guess.

21 minutes ago, kpr said:

Stu's  engine is basiclly the fancy version of whats in the Hilux,  which is vvti  long rod turbo, but built from worn out old junk and a weird cam combo. 

@Stu  is going to run a g25, so we can make a nice easy 300kw at 10,000rpm 

I was going to say a pulsar g25 (4849) (or a Garrett if you have the coin) would be a great match maybe with a .72 I'd your going for all the revs

Though I can't remember what diff/gearbox he's got so may not love the power haha.

Ok so the Hilux will be a great comparison, but you've also set that up for different duties to what the 86 will be doing right?

The Hilux videos you posted definitely shows how capable the setup is 

19 minutes ago, Stu said:

Yep! More on that to follow

Love it keen to see results on how it works with boost

Have you mentioned turbo selection? Or still deciding?

Custom @kpr VVTI Head setup?

19 minutes ago, Muncie said:

If anyone has an v8 LS Airflow meter floating around their garage they dont need hit me up.

I thought with the MAF resolution mods they had come up with that the factory meter wasn't as much of a limitation?

28 minutes ago, xsspeed said:

Reading those comments made me dumber liek those who dont understand the diff between hp at wheels vs quoted engine hp

This also the weight of the car, whats a FWD box worth in loss? 10-15%?

So maybe what closer to 200whp?

2 minutes ago, ThePog said:

Its not the picture.

Wonder how bad the runout is on a dial indicator when your working a part

You don't need precision accuracy right?

@ThePog Is it just the picture or is that extension not very straight?

2 minutes ago, Roman said:

I think I might have mentioned it before, but its honestly one of my best trackday memories. 
Two uni students came to a Taupo trackday, back when it was the old small track. 
One was in a 3 cyl NA diahatsu Mira, and the other was in a 1500cc Ford Fiesta canvas top.
These cars were super closely matched in speed etc, and they were out there all day just absoluting wailing on their cars chasing each other around.
They came back into the pits with hugest grins, and everyone spectating was just loving watching these cars go 20 out of 10. So good.
While other people grumbling that their semi slicks were getting hot or something. Zero fucks given and max enjoyment.
It was like a mini Best Motoring video or something. haha.

Was watching this the other day and really resonated, its all about seat time and getting out there. Doesnt matter what your driving as long as you can get out there reliably. I don't think alot of the commenters realize that or that your were doing everything on a budget.

2 minutes ago, michael14 said:

Yeah this was my source of info too - I did find a couple of other 59 Canadian models on Wikipedia that came with a 251 (Dodge Mayfair is the only one I remember off hand

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dodge_Mayfair

I believe I found a couple of others, but can't recall which ones off hand!

Could also be a bored out 242 or 224 (doubtful) do you have any markings on the block to confirm or did you just take measurements to confirm that its a 251 size wise?

At least you can track down pistons now

Hope this helps

All had the 251 according to Wikipedia 

Any plans to replace the rubber hoses or are they still in good condition?

Going down the rabbit hole of pistons and modifying for some more power

"There are some modern Harley and Indian flat-top pistons that might prove useful for someone building a modified flathead.
All the pins are too small, but a new pin bushing fixes that.
Bore sizes:
Chief 3.25"
H-D UL 3.3125"
H-D UH 3.422"
H-D XL Evo 1200, FL 1340 (same bore, different compression distances) 3.498"
Corvair 140 3.375"
Corvair 145, 164 (same bore, different compression distances) 3.4375" "

Reference link

if you can find a long rod option you could run shorter modern pistons (assuming you found something that fit)

Guy has already made custom gear but its expensive 

Expensive custom long rods/short pistons

If yours is the 230 sized motor

Looks like the biggest oversized pistons rockauto have are 0.080" oversize

They do have sleeve repair kits too

They also have standard sized valve seats. Looks like they are running short on new valves.

Not much oversized stuff left

Summit racing has some options but alot of it is special order

Summit racing link (searched based on the 230 engine size 3.8 etc)

Summit racing link 2 (specific search based on Clints comment that its the same engine in the Savoy)

Are you sure you want 3 7/16" pistons? As that's over 87mm 

The bigger displacement engines has that size tho so possible it's been bored out already? Or is a 237? Apparently the Canadian and American based flathead 6s are different.

3+7⁄16 in (87.3 mm)

Larger pistons

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_flathead_engine

Looking at the pics/info and I'd double check when you order but looks like new pistons are all the newer 3 ring design so may even be an upgrade

1 hour ago, cletus said:

A rebore is not going to make much if anything of a power increase on its own 

 

The real power increase is the fact you can lean on it harder with non cheese pistons, correct ring gaps etc 

Though if he goes to L67 pistons vs the ecotec Na pistons he's looking at lower compression think its 8.5:1 vs 9.5:1

Motorbike DBW ITBs seem to be a good option 

@Romanused BMW S1000RR on his Echo 

Could possibly weld your plenum onto the top of them and do an adapter to the head 

Or you might be able to retrofit the off them 

Pricing seems to have gone up recently (seen them 200aud a set previously) but might be a local option 

The BMW s54 one your mentioning are expensive and from memory had a habit of needing replacement. People seem to like them for retrofits 

The other aftermarket options are expensive 

You could potentially get two dbw throttles from say a barra dbw falcon and run a motor off those on each end of your throttle (wiring them together) (as I don't think the factory motor would be strong enough to do all 4 itbs)

You would probably need a new longer itb shaft that's keyed to fit tho

Could be fun to bench test a standard dbw throttle and see how strong they are tho

If you need to remove sound deadening/underseal you can look at doing it yourself 

Not a fun job tho, you can use dry ice to freeze underseal off 

9 minutes ago, d.p.n.s said:

All sorted 

Was the answer provided in Ugga Duggas or just make sure it's f***ing tight

Factory RX3 colour, I vote White or Jewel green

19 minutes ago, kpr said:

Have tuned a couple of fd's  with power fc,    both had single  turbo swaps.  one had a stock engine with a pulsar 6262 (g35)    the other one had an older gt series of similar size with with a rebuilt engine with some mild porting.    both made low to mid 200kw at wheels on low boost.   the one with the pulsar turbo  was more responsive and came on bit sooner.  but both had a stack of midrange and good off the bottom, nice to drive for street cars

Anyway,   power fc is getting pretty old tech now and fairly basic.   but for something like above they are fine.   anymore power  i would look at something newer like a link.  as they arent amazing with bigger injectors, have to fudge the deadtimes and stuff to tune the low load and idle stuff and you are putting your trust in some old electronics,   The  idle control has a mind of its own also.   Need a datalog it or similar to tune them properly,  hand controller is just for small adjustments and a pitta to tune with.  
I would avoid a microtech also, cant say ive tuned one myself  but have heard stories from other tuners  and are old tech now also 

I dont think the air pump would effect anything tune wise

Edit;  Also if you wanted me to tune it.  you'd have to deal with me moaning about the power fc and to buy a link

 

Any idea on the rear housing on the G35 6262? (pulsar) guessing the 1.01? as the .82, .83 and .85 would be a little small right? (it would be a G35-900 in Garrett turbo)

Thats kind of the turbo size I had in my head for similar power goals to the factory turbos (lower boost) (with some more in it :p) on a 13B but always keen to see real world

Rob Dahm says the G40-900 is the best all round rotary turbo but he also pushed 700hp with it haha