shrike

My rust fixing attempt all filled up (first attempt)

Small update, will post pics later this week Under-sealed the other rearwheel well/ inner arch, semi welded up the spare tyre well (can't weld for sh*t) pin holes are a pita, I swear I rewelded the same hole like 6 times as I was aiming for better then my skill allows, metal is bloody thin and kept blowing out even at the lowest volts my mig would run etc Will probably file/die grind it back and metal bog the final pin holes (yes I cringe at that but my skill isn't there) all the rust is gone/been treated Started stripping the surface rust under the car for more new under seal Need to buy the above mentioned metal bog and then once the boots prepped ill put down some primer Waiting on Steering rack bushes before I paint that, managed to press out the ball joints from the lower control arms Rethinking re-welding the rear sub-frame myself and need to see if I can find anyone under level 4 to do it for me if I drop it off Front subframe I am game to tack weld the crack slowly as itll be covered by the subframe anyway As you can see below bit of a hole

Stupid question but is the startermotor connected/wired up correctly? many years ago I swapped starter motors on my skyline to discover I had connected the signal wire to the wrong tab

Will put the other rear caliper back together one night this week, no rush as not like they can go back on the car yet ha Tire well came up ok after the rust treatment, put another coat on and will work out when I am welding the holes up, Thinking ill wire wheel the underside and rust treat that first tbh, need to do more painting so will get new brushes asap. Need to wire well the rest of the boot as well, need to buy some spray guns and some paint, ive got some primer already to go on once I finish removing the rust

Got the steering rack out and removed the tie rod ends, also will replace the rack bushes while its out and give it a paint. Ive got a set of rack boots as well which I may also do but the ones on it aren't too bad

Decided to do the passenger rear wheel well Needs a few minor touch ups but came up ok

Not bad

Repairs with a hot glue gun, not the best but it worked as a temp fix

Give it all a good scrub to see what I was working with Discovered some damage to the rear bumper bar and the rear bumper mounts so repaired that as best I could

Pulled the rear bumper off and the tow bar, will clean up and repaint these with some subframe black Behind the bumper was filthy, and surface rust everywhere, will put some fish oil down the chassis rails as well once I reassemble

Ended up pulling the engine as well oops, glad I can still remove a bonnet and an engine on my own Going to fix the rust around the clutch master, reinstall a few things in the engine bay/maybe some touch up paint etc Need to reinstall fuel lines so this will make it easier, need to remove more of the front end for some panel work repairs as well Swear this car is getting more taken off it :s Will disconnect the steering column from the rack tomorrow and get it out

Been meaning to pull the gearbox so that I can install the clutch/flywheel, needed more access to remove the steering rack so pulled it

Managed to get the lower control arms and sub-frame out, discovered it already had whiteline offset caster bushes installed, seems all the superpro bushings I brought will be spares now :s Will give everything a good clean and then a coat of subframe black paint

Decided to pull the other knuckle off and removed the lower control arms and steering rack etc Managed to not snap the allen key bolt on this side removing the big calipers and floating rotors (god they are heavy) Couldn't get the ball joint or tie rod end to separate from the knuckle Ended up cutting the tie rod end off, will put the knuckle in my 20ton press to remove the ball joint and tie rod end

So today escalated Finished rebuilding one rear caliper, added a speed bleeder to help with bleeding once its back on the car pulled the other apart and painted it Piston seems fine

Started doing the rear tyre well rust work, wire wheeled the shit out of it, blew all the dust of with compressed airand put some rust convert on it. Will weld up the holes/pin holes this weekend all going well, then chuck some paint over it till I repaint the whole boot. Will wire wheel the whole boot before I prep it for paint, car was advised as no rust lol, its a 90s mitsi its not does it have rust its where does it have rust. Will need to do the under body as well, have gotten 4l of chassis black underseal and some subframe paint Waiting on my 20ton press to do bushings, balljoints etc, brought a unimig 185 and a Fendi 14cfm compressor 12cfm fad so should be ok for basic painting when I get some guns Have new tie rods as well so they will be fun to change Hands are sore tonight

Just organised to buy another factory loom for my project car think I have a problem Means ill have 1x uncut RVR loom (came with engine) 1x Cut Haltech ps1000 loom, came with car 1x GLXI sohc auto 4g92 loom 1x unknown loom that came with the genuine evo loom 1x genuine evo 123 loom in ok condition Now looking at a good condition GSR 4g93t loom Just tried fitting the genuine evo loom and it may be challenging :s Probably spent enough to build a new loom from scratch but getting a rwc with one is not easy Also have had a few parts arrive, rear brakes are partly stripped for rebuild this weekend Also discovered the rear brake lines are braided already so the braided line kit I brought was not required :s

Hey I think the wheels look good

Still waiting for parts, need to go buy a welder to start repairs Amyama has refunded me some money as some parts are no longer available, so guess ill be going to the wrecker for a spares. Snapped an m12 Allen key bolt holding one of the callipers on so have ordered a replacement, front rh ballpoint was dead so have ordered a new set along with new tiered ends. Front bearing has play without the cv in, hoping it'll be fine when all back together otherwise it'll be new bearings for the front as well. Also ordered new rack and cv boots as I noticed one of mine is split, I may need to rebuild the rear cvs so see how they are once I pull the boots off Starting to pull together a patch loom for the teensy powered speeduino I have but its really rough atm. While im at the wreckers (not sure when im going yet) ill probably grab all the fuel lines, carbon canister and emissions stuff. Brought some rust converter etc to start cleaning up the boot and chassis ready for any weilding, going to get some bitumen based underseal and some chassis black paint for the undercarriage and suspension arms/diff cradle. Already straightened the Jack points at the back Diff cradle has a crack in the mounts so need to repair that as well, going to look at 180amp unimigs Migs this weekend (might get a tig later) and a 3hp 150L 12cfm fad 14cfm conpressor

Just ordered 1.4k of bits from Amyama, few spares for the front end. And a whole heap of other parts, also got a factory steering wheel on the way locally. Looking at evo 7 seats next Friday if I am allowed. Have factory suspension, guard liners, rear seatbelt buckles and a factory airbox im trying to sort from QLD Will do another run to the wreckers for some other spares soon as well Got a few things to sort now, im in the new house, moving another truck load tomorrow plus getting stuff from my mates Cars being moved Sunday

Ive built a 0.4 kit, and my soldering was pretty shit and it still worked, use a fine point on your soldering iron, decent solder and make sure your at the right temp. I got a circuit board holder so I could rotate the board.

Should have said it has a b18 in it

So small update Moving house next week, so will be getting this picked up by a flatbed tow truck and dropped off so I dont have to mess around with a car trailer and two narrow driveways Ordered every single suspension bush superpro has for it so will have fun installing them, also got an aeroflow engine support bar so I can get the gearbox in and out easier Have a few other parts to order/already on the way New updates to come when I move, as ill need to get some more tools as well Parents are shipping me the genuine evo loom next week so hoping to have that before the end of July I am also thinking about going over the aftermarket Haltech loom and seeing if I can make it useable again so that I have other ecu options

Thanks for taking the time, ill do some more investigations and report back, also expect some Speeduino updates when I get my car going

Fair point, didn't drive it after it was tuned but mate had commented about having issues driving it slow, which based on how it drives atm doesn't surprise me. At the time I wrote it off as he has a heavy foot Think he may have also changed intercooler/piping since he got it tuned now I think about it as well so that won't help either Might need to look into getting a HP tuner licence and a cable so I can have a look at the maps/logs Any guesses on what sensor it could be, I don't know Barras well enough to guess or know what commonly fails Pretty sure they run a narrowband from factory so perhaps thats died and/or its stuck in open loop