shrike

Some days I do consider just moving it on but would be wanting what I consider silly money for it as thats what the markets like. Car is also in Melbourne so might be a bit far away for you :p Anyway, managed to chuck the boost leak tester onto the turbo and what do you know cant even get 3psi into it as its leaking out that fast :s so when I get a chance will go round all the clamps again and then start on the old soapy water trick starting at the turbo and moving out. Also could hear bubbling so really hoping I am not pressurizing the cooling system or something. Pretty sure the gearbox may have 2nd gear problems based on my last posts but considering it probably needed to warm up and was running like a bag of di*ks it may not be that bad. I do know of a gearbox going for 1100aud in QLD that I may jump on as a spare. Hoping the leak is just a loose clamp and not a pin hole somewhere :s should probably buy a 2.5" to 3" adapter and a 2.5" bung so I can pressure test each pipe but I suspect itll be easier to just work forward from the throttle body if I have to do that. Fun times

No current updates, think I started it the other-day to move it back in the car port slightly haha. Cold start is a b***h so need to have another crack at the BLISS adjustment/setting again after I get the leak tester onto the piping Haven't had much motivation for it lately, which is annoying as its really close, may have time this weekend to do some more to it. Just need to find the time to get around to it, been busy with other hobbies etc lately.

Hey, might be worth having a chat with Barry at MRP around a twin/triple plate clutch thats more slip friendly, hear the triton/quartermaster setups he does are good

If you are on tank water, I would look at just pumping it back into the tank (assuming you use clean/foodgrade hoses and keep your chiller clean) fire tank would be less worry if its not going to be drunk, doubt the volume of beer you are cooling will impact the temp of a large tank much. I used to run my still with up-to 4800w of elements and used to cool that with a 3000L tank that was just feeding water through via gravity. (barely heated up even over a couple of hours)

Nice build , a lot prettier then my setup. With the temp probe I use a thermowell into my fermentor and use the exact temp of the wort to heat/cool, another option is to tape the probe to the side of the fermentor with some insulation. Not a must but have found it gives me more accurate temp readings and notes etc. Wort looks nice and clear what did you use to chill? Care to share the recipe?

Not a massive update but got the torque wrench onto my cv/axle nuts, they where semi loose so hoping thats resolved my bearing issue at the front. Couldn't get the gearbox to lock in gear (reverse or 2nd) with both front wheels off the ground (open diff) so had to put a wheel on and finish tightening through the center. Not the best way to do it I know but ill see how it drives later. Haven't remade the intercooler pipe but have flared it with some pliers so waiting on my boost leak tester to arrive before the next maiden voyage. Brought another front bumper support so need to swap that over, its not 100% straight so need to tweak it and work out how the top of my intercooler will mount now :s Still keen to get a spare rear bumper Haven't had much motivation lately or time, weather also has been average

@sheepersdidn't you narrow down a IRS from a skyline for one of your celica builds? I was also curious how common MX5 stuff (specifically the earlier stuff) is in NZ and thinking would the GT86 or Altezza etc be another option (would clearly need to narrow anything though) Yes current support for Beams is good I agree

Considered going for an electric powersteering setup by using a corolla/GT86 or prius electric steering column? How strong are MX5 diffs and how much power are you after? Id be looking at GT86 rear end and front components as well 3SGE are getting old in the tooth now as well, if you are going to a newer engine something like a 2GR might be fun? or if you want to stick with 4pot there are a few newer options (depending on if you want port or direct injection) Also if the 12a goes you could look at going to a 13b or a renenis option, still lots of places sell rebuild parts. How long do you think the 12a will go for?

Went to the wreckers the other day as they had a crashed lancer sedan Wouldn't let me buy seat-belt stalks :s so will need to hit the other wrecker up this Sunday all going well Managed to get Another set of roof trim Another set of guard liners A lower rear windscreen trim piece All the boot carpet and plastic Another stereo surround (in good condition) Another Drivers side vent Factory stereo brackets Factory carpet (need a clean but also good to use as a template for my new carpet) Factory floor mats (need a clean) Rear air-con ducting Cup holder Fuel lines (though the very end was kinked) Boot trim and carpet Spare wheel bolt Another spare footrest in slightly better condition to the one I have Have also ordered a sedan specific front bumper support Still need to Get drivers side Seat belt stalk and install replace intake side 90degree pipe with a stainless one that's got better clamping options Buy and use boost leak tester Tighten front axle nuts to torque spec and see if that removes the wheel bearing play If 2 doesn't work then order and replace front wheel bearings Test drive If test drive goes ok then book in a wheel alignment Sure there will be another list after the next test drive Before RWC Finish and install small exhaust and possibly remake front down pipe Set height at 105mm at lowest point (may need new down pipe to achieve this Finish boot rust repairs and paint boot Under-seal boot underside Finish mounting rear bumper Swap front rad supports Remount inter-cooler Install factory bumper (and if that doesn't fit install evo 3 bumper) Redo radiator top mount so that my rad cooling panel fits (may also use this to help secure bumper?) Factory carpet Factory boot trim Spare wheel? Tidy up wiring Then im sure Ill get a list from the RWC guy

So new carpet I ordered arrived, but discovered its the same as the carpet I have except not hacked up to fit. Will go get some factory carpet from a wreck to use a template to cut it properly/put in the bolt holes. Put the interior all back in, did some more rust hole welding (still need to grind it back) eyeballed the camber settings. Started to ask around about getting an alignment done, so gave it a wash, paints still average but it isn't covered in dust anymore. Fixed the power-steering res to pump low pressure top hose leak Thought I would put a no rego permit on it for a shakedown drive to supercheap to get another exhaust gasket and maybe some oil. Got it out of the driveway and went really well until boost came on, I forgot how quick the factory TD04HL spools on these. So boost came on and popped an inter-cooler pipe off, I think I got to house number 49 and im number 37. Of course it was the most dodgy one I had installed so will remake that in stainless and clamp it in better. Might invest in a 2.5" adapter so I can put the compressor on it to check for leaks Manged to get the pipe re-clamped enough to drive it home, under 40km as it wasn't running well. 2nd gear doesn't seem the best so will have to see if it gets better next time I drive it, might have just been me with the puk clutch. Feels like at least one of the brakes is stuck on as its dragging a little as well, so pretty shit drive overall EDIT: jacked it up and turning all wheels in neutral by hand no brakes feel stuck on, front wheel bearings feel pretty sloppy however so hoping I just didnt torque the driveshafts up enough otherwise ill be pulling the front end apart again :s Realized the drivers seat doesn't have a seat-belt stalk

Waiting for Burnout video?

Distillation is legal, could always make your own sad to hear however. Still readily available over here, well in Victoria anyway, long term ill be doing a flex fuel setup with the fake evo

I get the appeal to go with a period correct engine and twin carbs. But personally a hotted up (high comp etc) frakenbuild of an original motor setup with an EFI conversion and DBW ITBs would be pretty cool especially on E85 (maybe a supercharger long term?) Don't know much about the engines that go in these but fully support the goal to relive your younger years

Typical, fix something and the other end has issues. Don't stress to much, I found a small fuel leak from a loose fuel drain screw the other day. Previously had a massive leak on the return. I've currently got a small powersteering fluid leak, small gearbox oil leak and a small engine oil leak. Good old mitsi's How did you go getting the fuel tank reconditioned? if its to far gone can always look into going to a fuel cell (pretty sure that requires a cert however) I have an Aeromotive fuel cell setup with my fabricator for my track car, so if you need to have a look at one for sizing let me know

So small fuel leak on the driveway this morning, just had to tighten the fuel tank drain screw so hoping thats sorted it Small drip of engine oil so need to find out where that's from, and a small drip of gearbox oil again not sure where its coming from Need to set the Bliss properly this weekend and then decide what I am doing with the front exhaust off the turbo Edit Ordered another 2.5-3" adaptor, getting a quote on 6m of 3" 304SS pipe delivered (should be about 100aud plus the delivery fee) and im going to attempt to remake the front pipe, hoping to reuse the cat but might need to shorten some sections. This may be interesting as there isn't much space

Most hydraulic places should be able to make you up a hose from memory

New shock insert turned up Swapped everything over No pics of it back in Also thinking I may need to redo the dump pipe as even with the suspension raised up to almost Max height I'm at something like 85mm of ground clearance. But will have a think and come back to it. Checked the timing again, also realised my wiring was correct for the cas but my cas plugs off the old haltech loom that has the sensor wiring around the other way. Warmed her up and the heater runs hot air so think the cooling system is good At this stage. First/reverse work and engine feels healthy, took it out my driveway briefly and turned it around. Did have some clunking/rattling but think it was the bolts I had loose in the boot. Need to tidy some stuff up and then can take it to the wheel alignment and a short drive. Still tempted to put the speeduino in it but it'll wait.

New shock insert is meant to arrive today but betting it'll be Monday Bits for the small exhaust arrived so will tackle that next week as I am at a wedding tomorrow Probably need to make sure the cooling system has no air in it but will sort that after ive done a short test drive with the new shock insert install (still annoyed I needed one ) will do this before I put the small exhaust on and make sure it drives ok (will have a no rego permit, and itll just be around the block) then will book in for a wheel alignment next weekend all going well Still waiting on a factory GSR bumper and grill to arrive but ill cable tie the evo 3 fiberglass bumper on for the alignment if I have to The factory lancer wagon exhaust is a tiny 1 5/8" so I have 1m of 1 7/8" to slide over it to step up-to the 1 7/8" to 2" adapter and then a 2" to 3" adapter onto a 3" flange that will bolt onto my font pipe. Hopefully itll be nice and quiet but not overly happy about how much back pressure itll have ha

So been promising a video for awhile this is how it sounds now Think ive got the bliss etc set now so warmup is 1000-1200rpm and drops to 800 when warm Still bloody loud, timing is set at 5degrees from memory but I may have set it at 10 can't remember off the top of my head, my dodgy cheap timing light still has issues flashing, my electronic light shows it at the 5 degrees mark at 0 degrees on the display so it might be at 10 degrees No smoke as I haven't overfilled it with oil and the timing is set correctly, also have an ecu I know is for a turbo engine now I actually realized today I have the cam and crank signal wired around the wrong way, so will need to swap them around and re-time the CAS when I have a moment. Right now its drive-able (once I replace the front right coil-over) and not an issue as the timing is correct for the signal its seeing but not ideal long term Cooling system now has no leaks and holds a pretty constant 82-84C degrees (middle of the factory temp gauge) the cooling fan comes on with the thermoswitch at 84C and off at 82C so happy that's working now Waiting on another exhaust adapter (2" to 1 7/8") and a meter of 1 7/8" pipe to arrive so I can finish the modified n/a lancer wagon exhaust and get it quiet for RWC Ill redo the 3" from the front to the back once I go to a larger turbo Current 3" may get a resonator or another muffler etc at some point as a temp option Also have a very small slow oil leak around the oil filter, CAS and possibly the cam cover, I have a new cam cover gasket I need to put on Will keep an eye on them

So my 90 degree silicon joiners arrived today so finished redoing the inter-cooler piping on the hot side Shortened this pipe by about 100mm and put a 90 degree on it Not sure if you can see but the 90 goes into a 180 alloy pipe I had cut in half and then has a straight joiner onto a straight that goes into another 90degree silicon joiner into a shortened 45 degree alloy pipe Ive actually wrapped the top pipe in gold reflective tape since this pic, however I am not sure how effective itll be so will get some exhaust wrap for it Looks heaps tidier then the way I had it with the temp piping, leaves space for a full size radiator again if I want to fix the bottom rad mount. Vaccum gauge sits rock solid when idling so don't think I have any vac leaks Lowest point of the car is the dump/down pipe and the exhaust towards the back. Im aiming for 105mm from them so hoping it doesn't look to bad If its terrible after RWC ill tuck everything up more and lower it a little more

Saw an RVR pop up at the Kilsyth Pick-apart on Thursday, thought I wonder if it will have bits I want as spares. Drove the hour there for when it opened at 9am and discovered its Auto Diesel 4 stud and rear drum Someones already taken the motor, gearbox and diff (funnily the transfer case was on the ground) Rear axles are smaller then the ones I have so no good Front drivers side axle is smaller and non abs to what I have so no good Considered grabbing the front exhaust but cost wasn't worth it when I would have to mod anyway Was like ok this place should still have two cc lancer station wagons so ill grab some bits off them, discovered they had gone Sat in the car and had a look at the other wreckers as I had already paid for tolls and found out the Imlachs in Dandenong had just gotten a station wagon in. So drove the 30mins to get there (still an hour to get home from this wrecker) and I hit gold managed to get the below for $100 (tempted to go back and grab the engine tbh) cluster said 500000km but the interior was immaculate and the engine looked new under the oil cap. Exterior was rough as, was hoping to grab a front bumper and grill for RWC as trying to get it to pass with a fiberglass evo 3 bumper will just not work. But they were too far gone (so ordered a brand new set from Supercheap and another left hand indicator for $150) Managed to get the below from Imlachs Led bulb set for headlights (free) Lots of screws , relays and bolts etc :p (free) Stereo surround in amazing condition (with din pocket etc) Speaker covers (have since discovered my door cards have been hacked so need to get new lower door cards Might go back and grab the manual window ones from the wreck another day) 3 door scuff plates in good condition Right hand side vent as mine was cracked LH indicator (not happy with the lens was going to swap lens via oven baking but brought a new one for $26 instead) Manual gearbox cables as mine were missing the cover on the firewall (mine however have new bushings, ive also got a brand new set from amyama as well) 4 ok quality kenwood speakers as the car has none (Discovered the front doors don't have speaker cables :s) I have a spare dash loom so will have to see if I have them otherwise will need to get some) these where $6 each A custom pod filter adapter/holder (cost me $5) (wont be using it for awhile but couldn't resist with the effort someone had gone into to make it) Another rad overflow bottle as I cant find the one I had :S they charged me for the cap as well :s Will post pics later Waiting on intercooler joiners to redo the hot side of the intercooler piping and still waiting on a replacement shock insert

So the rad pipe adapter with the M16x1.5 threaded hole the 1/8"npt side had been tapped on an angle so the temp sensor I have wouldn't fit Ebay seller asked me to destroy it and he would refund me so I cut it in half with my grinder Rummaged around in my tool box and found I did have a 14mm drillbit so drilled another hole in the original adapter I had and tapped that

Full new set of window switches arrived, rear passenger window is still having issues going back up so might need to give it a clean out or replace it New front shock canister insert on the way, and have raised the left hand side one without issues, wheel to guard gap is huge atm, will see how it sits once I have the other one back in and it on the ground Also turned the dampener settings down to the lowest setting on all shocks so its not so hard, will adjust up once I have it on the road and see how it drives with a proper wheel alignment Have a few other parts on the way Park-light bulbs Door Handle trims Din slot holder Will have a crack at replacing the turbo (hot) side inter-cooler piping to try get some more ground clearance this weekend, not touching the down-pipe off the turbo at this stage so that will be my lowest point, need to give the car a good clean as well

So that's shit Ordered a replacement canister from Justjap for $550 aud, will have to swap my spring etc over to it. Looking at a few weeks lead-time but at least im not having to buy a complete set of coil-overs.

Checked the factory Radiator fan Relay and found the wire that needs to be grounded to activate it. Traced it to the factory plug and have got it ready to wire to the Thermostatic switch Once the thermostatic switch and Rad hose adapter arrive I can finish that and add coolant. Have taken it off the stands so hoping to take it for a wheel alignment next month. Checked ground clearance and its about 80mm from the dump pipe and the passenger side temp inter-cooler piping is similar. So need to raise it 25mm or remake some pipes :s probably should do some more work in the boot as well. bumper doesn't fit that well (yay fibreglass) so need to think about how I deal with that