nobody

Correct its just a billet body adapter over a bosch DBW section, @BlownCorona no shim just clamps on the shaft, but there is no way its going to come loose, or slip, the force needed to move throttles is stuff all, if it ever need to make enough force to try slip it you have bigger issues

I used the BWW S54 dbw actuator originally with a haltech 1500 and I just couldn't make them last, they break the shaft retaining plate then the shaft moves and they short out taking the ecu with it. Tho they were all second hand units, getting a new unit might be different. I moved to using an EFI hardware actuator (https://www.efihardware.com/products/3196/drive-by-wire-actuator-dbw) and have never looked back been in the car over 5 years now, Mazda 323 4g63 swapped, custom cnc'd intake adaptor with 4age quad throttles

Both those rear ports are outlets only the front port in an inlet

I've got Haltech 1500, running a 4g63, DBW, ITBs, turbo, its always been super easy to tune both on the older ESP firmware and newer NSP Tuning method is "Volumetric Efficiency", Fuel Load type is TPS, Base fuel map is RPM vs TPS but Ignition base map is RPM vs Ignition Load I use an external map sensor because its turbo, I also run a wideband with long term trim enabled, a knock and flex fuel sensor Not sure any of this helps but happy to share any info or tune if it would help

Well that went over my head didnt it

?? Just passing on information, lots of people try to pass off GTR heads as a performance upgrade when in reality they are the same

Awesome little car! GTR and GTX heads\cams are the same apart from GTRs have sodium fllled exhuast valves

Ive had 3 of those BMW dbw actuators fail (all second hand mind you) I changed to https://www.efihardware.com/products/3196/drive-by-wire-actuator-dbw (almost the same price as a new BMW actuator) and all problems went away and who doesnt like a bit of billet Thats on my Mazda 323 with 4age Blacktop Quad