SOHC

From what I can see in the photos looks like you have a Boyesen reed block?, they sometimes need a drop in jet size from stock to make them run right, it will go nicely with that Prociruit pipe, no wonder its fast, it is probley over 50 HP or so at the crank. PS don't cut the oil mixture down, the factory made it like that, even if the oil bottle says you can run 50:1

it may take a few charges before they come fully right

I spent hours sanding it off a pair of motorcycle fork legs, I did read about this but I didn't beleave it. I was worried with the alloy of the forks it would rot them, the last pair swelled up and looked like rotten wood and fell apart

Someone here sed I must make a stack with a flap a wile ago. I spent about 2 hours making a rain flap then found they are only $11.00 but I gess I would spend 2 hours going to get it, I bet it will just fume me wile I am driving?

I can ask about a dash but I know there are a cople of engines. there is a mint set of front doors for a 2 door. Are yes my mondeo had a cam chain, I think parts were stupidly expensive and I understand the wiring insulation was designed to brake down for ease of recycling, I wont go into a rave

Ay?

I dont understand why the 2001 mondeo engine is so popular? I had a 2001 Ztec and it was very average, are you from England? Let me know if you need HB viva parts I am helping an old guy clear out his colection and there is alot of viva stuff like engines diffs panels etc.

I took the orinagle K321 motor from the tractor apart, and ordered a new piston and gasket set, valves and guides, governor gear, and main bearings, I have a new rod to, I chucked the balance gears in the scrap bin like everyone recommended, most motors they have already been ditched, I made a new exhaust pipe as the old one consisted of plumbing fittings and a Mondau muffler, got the old Coby off my Volvo to make a stack exhaust. I will get the block bored and the crank ground when the parts get to nz, stator for the charging system is bad I think but I have another one from the 341, I gave it a bit of a port job, smoothed out the inlet port, it had two big steps witch I smoothed out, and I smoothed the eyebrows round the valves a little, I got rid of the exhaust stub witch screwed into the port and made it about a 1" hole and made a bolt on flange.

It was an old guy working from home who had a recondition shop, his wife became a total bitch and put an end to him working in the shed after he had hart trobble wile working on a home made aroplane

Where is a cheep place I could get my single cylinder tractor motor rebored and honed and crank reground? I use to go to one place that was around $30 to get a bore and hone on a single cylinder but its gone now.

Epsom salts = magnesium sulfate, you can get it from the supermarket and I think garden shops.

Yes even y new charger needs that, it will just go into battery fucked mode and click off. I have some reconditioned battreys if anyone wants them? cheep or free, I have no use for them, they are worth about $15 as scrap but they seem to be working ok and will get better over time

I found another crack in that 341 block and I cannot be fucked with it anymore I am going to rebuild the K321 witch is in the tractor, I whipped it out and pulled the head off to confirm bore size and broke one head bolt in my haste witch I now have to drill out, crank shaft is rooted, someone snapped the threaded end off for the flywheel and arc welded a new one back on but I have another crank, and I would machine it off and drill and tap it for a bolt if I didn't, Still kind of in two minds about building up the 16hp, but I think the 14hp will be a better motor and ether way I can make one out of the 2 but its going to cost some money.

I have a big K341 motor, its physically the same size as the 14 HP but has a bigger bore, they are hard to find, mine had some damaged I needed to fix, I have a new rod, I jusr need a +10 piston and get it rebored and the crank ground.

Put a heaped teaspoon in each cell, if the sides are bulging dont even bother, it will have an internal short.

Found 2 car batterys in a field, one of them has 2001 scratched into it and the other one is a big one witch is very faded from sun and has terminal clamps on it still but the bolts have nealy rusted off, they both had about 1/2 to 1 volt and they would just trip the switch on the charger, I had to drill holes in one as it was sealed but I put a heaped spoon full of Epson salts in each cell, and hot glued the holes up, they both seem to be charging now. The battery I did this to about 12 months ago is still going strong, it takes a few cycles for them to come back up to what the CCA would have been,

I filled the diff with semi fluid, I am sure thats what it should of had and not oil, its nice and smooth and quite now.

if he dosnt want it I will buy it,

But I was thinking it would be good to improve the whole drive line and get rid of the chain drive and replace the diff with a car diff and then have a brake for each wheel so you could lock up the side witch is skidding to swap the drive to the other side like other tractors

I might just flick this off, I am board with it now, its too wide in the rear end for around my place,

I want to replace the diff in this with a car diff or something, I would need some kind of 90 degree bevel drive to link the gearbox witch is parallel with the diff, what kind of car has a realy narrow diff?

I will make a real 3 point linkage at some stage

Not going to do that agearn, it goes up so fast and then comes crashing down, when the belt clutch is cold its very snatchey

I found how to get the rear axles out, RH axle is a short tube and the LH is a long solid shaft and runs right through the diff and then through the hollow RH axle, a big split pin and washer holds everything together. I should be able to pull them out and wack in new seals and bearings. I drove over to a friends place on it this afternoon, if you let the clutch out a little bit too fast the front wheels will come off the ground, and it dosnt matter if the engine is at idol or full throttle, I think towing a trailer on steep or uneven ground would be dangerous.