Vk304 Posted April 23, 2024 Author Posted April 23, 2024 Bad news, i think all the irons are beyond repair, cracks in one of the bridge ports, and center of a iron I suspect the water was getting in here... maybe? There is some pitting in the face of the iron around here And lots of substantial wear, i can catch a fingernail on a lot of it, makes me wonder why they are so deeply grooved and the alloy housings are mint...? Anyways, on the lookout for decent s4 s5 irons now, i may get away with one of them but id rather some mint ones for peace of mind and they are surface coated so any lapping or machining would remove that i believe... correct me if im wrong ... Well i gotta say, im not really surprised, but i am disappointed in the old 'built' engine with less than 5k kms 1 1 4 Quote
Vk304 Posted April 24, 2024 Author Posted April 24, 2024 Soo i did some backyard hardness testing with various tools and the housing with the BIG wear marks or step wear whatever you call it is easily scratched with relatively soft metal, slightly harder on the unworn surface on the outside but still scratches, another plate will not scratch at all with the same tool (screwdriver), (not very scientific haha), but the plate that scratches easily and is worn, shows signs of having been sanded or something in the past. This leads me to believe someone may have surfaced one or more plates and ultimately removed some of the surface hardening, i could measure widths as well and other things but it still remains that ill need new plates anyway due to the cracking and exessive wear, potentially i could save one but ill see... 6 Quote
Popular Post Vk304 Posted June 22, 2024 Author Popular Post Posted June 22, 2024 New irons from mazda they are at sprint RE getting a big streetport and drilled for the dowels, injectors getting tested there too, s5 irons-better and stronger than s4, more posts soon. 18 Quote
Popular Post Vk304 Posted June 22, 2024 Author Popular Post Posted June 22, 2024 decided im going with a blue theme on this one, stripped some partsetch primedcaliper paint, hope it stands up to the heat... 15 Quote
Popular Post Vk304 Posted June 22, 2024 Author Popular Post Posted June 22, 2024 Engine bay cleaned up and quick gloss black high heat paint, strut brace brackets in blue 12 Quote
Popular Post Vk304 Posted June 22, 2024 Author Popular Post Posted June 22, 2024 Got new hatch struts from rock auto, only needed one on passenger sidesuch a relief having that stay open on its ownlights converted from sealed beam to h4/replacable bulbs... this fixed a blown one and easy to change in future...tinted side windows myself and got hatch tinted by dr tint for 90$, pretty good price i think. 35% og mazda seals 15 Quote
Popular Post Vk304 Posted July 10, 2024 Author Popular Post Posted July 10, 2024 Quick little job while im waiting on irons, the power steering had been removed before i got the car, i wanted to tidy up lines and properly convert it to manual steering as all the parts were missing, turns out the inside has a sort of a torque rod inside the steering shaft, this can cause some play if not running off the pump, welding the shaft halves up will give more direct steering, so i did that and removed all the lines/seals and plugged up the holes as well as add grease. 11 Quote
Popular Post Vk304 Posted July 20, 2024 Author Popular Post Posted July 20, 2024 Got my irons back, some really nice porting by sprint re as well as drilled for dowels pretty buisy shop as you can see so happy they were able to get them done in good time, super helpful guy too . 10 Quote
Vk304 Posted July 20, 2024 Author Posted July 20, 2024 Some prep work, new irons need a plug put in here... just waiting on tap to turn up and the oil pump housing looked like this on old setupthe new iron took the sharp edges off and rounded the edge for better flow i suppose 6 Quote
Popular Post Vk304 Posted July 20, 2024 Author Popular Post Posted July 20, 2024 Etch primed and painted in high temp black, looking good.. 24 Quote
Popular Post Vk304 Posted August 3, 2024 Author Popular Post Posted August 3, 2024 Did a bit of wet sanding in the rotor housings, but they were pretty mint still so only real lighttapped iron for plug.found a screw that had backed out of the stationary gear, luckily caught that and loctite that back in place so it'll not walk out again...new rear main seal as old one was looking a bit oldim a fan of sealants so got some non hardenining hylomar on the seals..superglued the new apex seals together, old ones were slightly warped so i bit the bullet and got some more same brand.put it all together with oil over all plates and housings, vaseline to hold all parts in, hylomar on o rings only... Taking care to install all o rings, seal everything correctly and not exessively, new mazda dowels, corner seals, side seals oil rings and all springs were all in good condition, and intalled with care to orient everything as i pulled it out double checked etc I ended up using super glue to hold apex seals together to install, but then break them off before moving on to the next stage, torqued everything in the right sequence etc ... end play was bang on in the middle of tolerance so that was ideal, all turned good and just inspected through ports to make sure no apex seals were backwards hahah 13 Quote
Popular Post Vk304 Posted August 3, 2024 Author Popular Post Posted August 3, 2024 Clutch on today, loctite bolts on, put it in and upon installing injectors one of the wires practically just fell out of the plug shroud and lightly pulling on all the primary injector wires was able to pull them ALL out of the plugs...... im questioning if when it last ran so bad-was just that? As i had removed intake and wiring and reinstalled just before that final start, at least partially that... But anyway i de-pinned the plugs on primaries, soldered the wiring to the pins and re installed them, they should not come out again... Got mostly together, drained all the fuel out the tank to get fresh stuff in there, just building a turbo shroud and then i can put that in , also put 2 new 1000cc primaries in because when sprint re cleaned them one did not flow as well as the other, so 2 new bosch primary injectors, the secondarys tested good so left them . i think its starting to look good in blue 14 Quote
Popular Post Vk304 Posted August 5, 2024 Author Popular Post Posted August 5, 2024 https://youtube.com/shorts/dx6qFq75J1M?si=2GMl2Ul6Rth2scrq Very first start! 15 1 Quote
Popular Post Vk304 Posted August 7, 2024 Author Popular Post Posted August 7, 2024 Well waterpump sht itself when i first started it,as well as injector o rings, both are new now.... and guess what, car still has same hesitation and problems revving up and going lean revving up, called a tuner, recons my injector drivers might be playing up and this is something microtech ecu does have problems with, new ecu time, most likely link monsoon, but cant afford that right now so its probably going to sit for a while more, not what i needed !!! Reasons for suspecting ecu: injectors are tested and primarys are new, fuel pressures good, as new motor, same symptoms as last motor before it blew after a thrashing, only happens when pushing accelerator moderately, sensors are in spec, everything has been checked, new fuel, good compression, air fuel shows lean Condition upon acceleration and motor stumbles as if no fuel. Im not even going to test drive it, new ecu seems like the best option unless someones got a good tune 13b microtech lt10s i can borrow to double check ... 9 1 Quote
Popular Post Vk304 Posted September 6, 2024 Author Popular Post Posted September 6, 2024 Well i bit the bullet after no luck in getting my old ecu checked, i kind of liked the idea of having some upgrades at the same time and brought a microtech lt10c, with optional fuel and oil pressure sensors to be tuned in for safety and a new ignition box..some adaptors from aeroflow to adapt the sensors into the system, and i get to keep my oil pressure and temperature gauges for keeping an eye on things easily . moving away from gull force 10 ethanol it used to be tuned to, because its no longer available, so going to run bp98 and motul 800 premix .i ended up wiring the sensors in myself because it was easy enough, and all went well there, still a bit rough and ready but once everything is confirmed to work right ill re install and tidy things up. Ready for tuning soon... 13 Quote
Popular Post Vk304 Posted September 12, 2024 Author Popular Post Posted September 12, 2024 Moment of truth, getting a tune at HPR 20 Quote
Popular Post Vk304 Posted December 26, 2024 Author Popular Post Posted December 26, 2024 Ok so that took longer than expected, had some issues, some my fault, but we got there at the end, Gavin really did help troubleshoot the issues, I highly reccomend him as a tuner, the problems were hard to pin down, but now the car is running a lt10c microtech ecu. It has fuel, oil and boost pressure safety limits set up, and cold running limits, I have guages for these but if something happens quickly the ecu will protect the engine. Also new coils, leads, and I completely re wired the loom to improve on the old setup, and new injector plugs because the old ones were corroded and in poor condition, the new x4 box that came with the ecu somehow was faulty and that got replaced with the old x4 box. Everything runs great now and a run in tune, making about 385hp at 12psi boost and low rev limit, i believe 7.5k rpm, plenty more to be had but it's really not necessary for now. 11 Quote
Vk304 Posted December 26, 2024 Author Posted December 26, 2024 https://youtube.com/shorts/6hPaDBotFME?si=jZJwlUqwGYtoHxpv https://youtu.be/4D4KsOw_sYE?si=HhoGcgXo5Ia-5hLV Also,. Dont use aramex for overseas shipping, took a month to deliver a package 1 Quote
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