Vk304 Posted March 26 Author Posted March 26 I have solid engine mounts so I had to make the gearbox xmember solid too ... And I hooked the reverse lights up to the gearbox switch... 7 Quote
Vk304 Posted April 19 Author Posted April 19 Ok so went for another cert, because mine was from 2011 and was missing a bunch of details, whether it was different rules or things were changed- I dont know, but I have a few things to fix, it failed on power steering modified, and a fuel line rubbing, I fixed the fuel line in 5 minutes... The rack that I modified to be depowered would not pass a cert without professional inspection by a third party and that was going to cost, I checked my parts in storage, and found that I actually had the whole powersteering setup bar the the rack, so I found a unmodified one in auckland at a reasonable price and got that. To install it I had to weld a line that had the fitting cut off, and make a crank pulley spacer that accommodated the gilmer setup and pump pulley, I made a makeshift one to make it work and provide measurements for a new one to be made by cnc, aand have the recesses and all that cut into it. To provide a true centered pulley. Beck cnc ltd, reccomended by a friend, made the spacer for me and did a good job of it, it's tight and the belt is straight and true, all I had to do is drill the through holes ...I had to relocate the blow-off-valve to fit it in there .. power steering is sorted now and asked the cert man if I needed to do an alignment report and he informed me I did.... 8 Quote
Popular Post Vk304 Posted April 19 Author Popular Post Posted April 19 So another fc owner Ashley, who put me on to the rack in auckland, had spare fc parts and I ended up getting a full set of belts for the car, and a panel for under the glove box.... for the cost of shipping, sometimes the car community is just awesome here, this gets me closer to having a back seat, which I wouldn't mind having one day, and the interior looks a bit less stripped ... Then I got an alignment rear camber way out, and front caster, both of which are not very adjustable, especially with a lowered car... Rolled both guards as tyres were already rubbing a bit Then got some part shop max camber links for the rear, pricy at 360$ or so... I tried buying the shortest heim joints/rod ends with male/female threads and right hole id...to make these but it is not possible to achieve the shorter distance with what the bearing shop was able to provide so I bit the bullet and got psm links... But this took a lot of camber out. Not sure on the caster because it's not that far out... I will try sort something out for that. 13 Quote
Popular Post Vk304 Posted May 10 Author Popular Post Posted May 10 Final wheels... maybe, I think it looks good. 17x9, +10, 245 and 225 tyres 13 Quote
Popular Post Vk304 Posted May 13 Author Popular Post Posted May 13 Road legal, no more green sticker, or potential impound lol Aaand full comprehensive insurance for 40$ a month with star, which is great. Now just a muffler that's a bit quiet but doesn't choke it to hell 19 Quote
Vk304 Posted May 22 Author Posted May 22 Well that diddnt last long, and I had an exhaust leak apparently Checked last oil filter, clean no metal, just junk from cutting it open and a little silicone, plugs fouled but have new ones on the way. 5 Quote
Vk304 Posted May 24 Author Posted May 24 Did some roll racing, went well, but I was having some issues shifting into gear at high revs lol 9 Quote
Popular Post Vk304 Posted June 13 Author Popular Post Posted June 13 Cut open the maxfab resonator which was having a hard time brought a louvered 3.5inch core from Adrenalin r and repacked it with stainless as well as the glass packing that it did have, should last longer hopefully, also the core is only welded on one side inside so it has some room to expand with heat. Hopefully it's a bit better now and i won't be worried it's gonna collapse and damage stuff. Adrenalin r stuff is pricy, but the quality is definetly there, my rear muffler is also Adrenalin r, non louvered 3 inch now. sounds nice and takes a lot of the drone out of it . 12 Quote
Vk304 Posted Wednesday at 03:56 Author Posted Wednesday at 03:56 It's just as loud with the louvered core resonator, but not too loud? Lol and I did a fd reman altenator, because the 60 amp one was not cutting it at low revs with fan on etc... all I had to buy was a 90 amp fd rx7 altenator, from strange workshop about 300$, a ls plug kit- (ls, nissan, mazda- share the same style 2pin plug for Mitsubishi / hitachi alt )- from a aeroflow supplier- about 6$ and attach it to my wiring. Drill my pulley out to 17mm, and space pulley out about 6mm ( i used a thin nut, dilled out to 17mm and the hex ground off- because im a hoarder...and it works).. and now it charges 14 plus volts at idle. Not sure if the old altenator was bad or the demand was too great, but now it doesn't seem to have the same issues- stalling at lights etc... Other than that they just bolt in to s4 housings... 8 Quote
Vk304 Posted 10 hours ago Author Posted 10 hours ago Also got a racetech linelock for drag butnouts etc to not smoke my rear brakes and i prefer mechnical things so no solenoid, it turned out to have bsp threads in it...... ? So i had to get a bunch of adapters to make that work bsp to npt to brakeline fittings, ran the lines through a gromet hole and to the rear split into a m10x1.0 joiner.. the idea being it's fully removable... because it's not legal, but can remove handle to render it un operable and got a front bumper to fix my cut up one, as well as a carpet and gear shifter surround and boot, little more tidy inside because street car? Bumper will have to wait till I paint the car someday because it's white... still looking for a reasonably priced dash facia...rear still needs something, yes my battery box is a sealed ammo box bolted to the floor lol 5 Quote
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