dspec_tt131

Jesse's Toyota Mark ii Grande gx61

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Radiator hoses have come back as NLA so I'm keeping the ones above for now.

Changed oil pressure switch from light to gauge type and its reading full as I crank over which is a good sign.

New genuine water bypass pipe and clutch fork boot arrived and have been installed 

Have come so far but seem to be stuck on a few small things. 

I cant seem to bleed the air out of brake master cylinder in the car and trying to do so is messing up the exhaust shroud coating - may have to remove and bench bleed.

When I put fluid in the clutch master cylinder its pissing out the connections of the new hard line, is this likely because I dont have the end of hard line absolutely square to fittings when tightening?

1geu spark is triggered directly from distributor, 1gge spark is triggered from ecu using IGT and IGF pins. You cant use 1geu igniter on 1gge engine so I had to collect my twincam one which I had gifted to a friend and wire up however I'm still not getting any sparkScreenshot_20200203-175022_Drive.thumb.jpg.66b79debc04866cdc04c40f15f37ea01.jpg

If I have the key turned to on and connect the IGT and IGF via the two pin plug I've wired in the coil emits a huge spark but if I turn over with key with a lead in coil no spark happens.

I've printed out this 1st gen pin out diagram and written below in pen pin out for my 2nd gen engine for anyone else who needs in the future 

2020-02-11_081125.thumb.jpg.fe1ebf30abe0cf51d834d70a624abc88.jpg

I dont think there is a discussion thread for this project so if anyone has a clue with any of this stuff and can lend some advice feel free to pm me 

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Had a mobile auto electrician come around last Friday and spend a few hours diagnosing the problem. When I had run the itg and igf wires from ecu to igniter via existing wires in engine loom for some reason I spliced into them and left them running to where ever they went which was connected to +12v. Snipped the two wires going to somewhere and got a few splutters from turning over. Flipped dizzy timing 180° and it fired up. 

Engine runs well with no leaks, went for a quick drive about 20kms and all seems OK. 

Booked in for cert when quarantine is lifted, still need to either buy positive offset 7.5s for rear or just cert on 7s all round as I have clearance issues on the rear.

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