Hurmeez

Hurmeez' 1977 Mk2 Escort Estate

71 posts in this topic

Lot's of photos today.  Finally. I went to the engineering shop and got my sheet sliced with the guillotine and folded up in the sheet metal brake. They all worked out perfectly except the very first one. I didn't clamp it down properly while I was doing a particularly skinny fold and it sort of just pushed the sheet back into the brake in the center so only the outer corners actually got bent up. P_20170718_131134.thumb.jpg.16f7f0c657430ece6d0914e9afc96a06.jpgUnfortunately because of how I did it I couldn't try to make this fold again so I had to go back to plan A. The boring and tedious method. So I made myself a very specialised tool.P_20170718_132430.thumb.jpg.d156ebb37cfc1bc933b57adf14da1cfb.jpgP_20170718_143241.thumb.jpg.ed5b07d8a993fb30c1791b90936acf7d.jpgP_20170718_143300.thumb.jpg.860f5011a5d4b322156e26823bdb6133.jpg
It might look like a piece of steel with a slot cut in it but that's because that is exactly what it is. I cut the slot and faced it with the lathe to make it close enough to 5mm deep and then used it to slowly tweak up the channel. 

Then I finished it with a piece of box section clamped in place to make it nice and straight and smooth.P_20170718_144903.jpg

And here are the finished results. Now I just have to start forming them to fit the inner guard mounting flange.P_20170718_150258.jpg

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I used the same method as the first set to stretch and shrink the edge of the outer flange to make it fit the inner flange. Then I put some locating bolts in the riv nuts and bolted and clamped the guard and flange into place to find where to drill the holes for the top mounting bolts.P_20170718_171833.thumb.jpg.3b7943e1ad3f4d48b6a2889097d69696.jpg

I quickly realised this wouldn't work because the head of the locating bolts were too thick and were holding everything in the wrong spot. So I pulled it off and used the original flange to transfer the hole positions over to the new flange.P_20170718_173639.thumb.jpg.4db0e777b12593868db52da3dda3dae1.jpg

Then I skipped some steps and repeated for both sides and there you go, two guards bolted up with sexy new drip rails.P_20170718_171326.thumb.jpg.5a8b0c7ded2c793e5158976f2947cbcf.jpgP_20170718_214304.thumb.jpg.03c30eb8c2ec7ae43b69ed72fea2e43d.jpg

Perfect, that'll keep the wetness to where it should be; the passenger's seat. :-D

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I also managed to get the bottom front flange extension on the front panel started tonight. This is before I did anything:P_20170718_220021.thumb.jpg.39c082b12bab57fc9adde56f4db8421f.jpg

Then I clamped up a piece of sheet well oversize to held keep the local heat and distortion down,P_20170718_220810.thumb.jpg.5144eec9f2750fc168f718852ad91526.jpg

And fully welded it up.P_20170718_222413.thumb.jpg.667476e002033b7a636d2fc2067ae07c.jpg

I also ground it back afterwards. Tomorrow I can finish this off and throw some riv nuts in it and the rear bottom mount and the guard will be done. That means tomorrow I can finally start tearing into the front panel mounting situation. I've been waiting for this for months. Looking forward to it.

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So plans changed of course. I swear someone is determined to stop me from touching my front panel.
Instead I got both guards so very close to done. I took them to a panel beater friend who let me borrow his spot welder to weld the mounting flanges to their corresponding positions. Firstly I ground away the paint and shit where the welds were going to go and added a bunch more clecos to stop anything from moving in the trip to the shop.P_20170719_133235-min.thumb.jpg.d332793b99454c1ce320c23f105c257b.jpgP_20170719_131623-min.thumb.jpg.4d96ddea40ce1bc49efb51f1326820ea.jpg

Then I pulled it all apart and put some weld through primer on the surfaces that I wouldn't be able to access once the welds were done. P_20170719_133420-min.thumb.jpg.e1f1b493b91c0c3d37f085da9680ccdd.jpg

Then I did all the spots. It was a bit of a workout because the welder is awkward and heavy but I got it done pretty well.P_20170719_135334-min.thumb.jpg.18d44fec6cbc801bda79cf05e7238b96.jpgP_20170719_140829-min.thumb.jpg.f19acbfa2f67cd8a55d9d1e8fbf01096.jpg

Sweet. Now to take the welder home to do the inner guard halves of the flanges.

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It was exactly the same process here.P_20170719_200518.thumb.jpg.2b722698aee3f6660d9051ace0640806.jpg

I opted to rosette weld the back part of each one with the mig because the thicknesses were adding up here and it was very difficult to get in behind to clean the surface which the spot welder really needs to function.
So I punched the holes, clamped it up,P_20170719_200523.thumb.jpg.f2fab9db24a3ecae44e951276829c63b.jpg

Welded it (this is the other side because I forgot to take a photo of this side)P_20170719_205802.thumb.jpg.8c8945175d59674cf7c4240e6ea30c40.jpg

And ground it back nicely.P_20170719_201837.thumb.jpg.f6e777a45c6aa77f528707fa869d5930.jpgYou can also see the stitches I did to join it to the cowl.

And this is the final product.P_20170719_211121.thumb.jpg.9434c869abc62834c389626606cdaeea.jpg

I didn't bother taking a photo of the shut lines because they would just look exactly the same as all the other shut line photos I've already put up but rest assured they look good.

I also finished extending the bottom flanges ready for some riv-nuts tomorrow (why do I bother saying that anymore?).P_20170719_230437.thumb.jpg.b533d495141ef4a15c33d9e51b38647f.jpg

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The guard was being a real bitch and took up almost all of yesterday so I didn't take many photos because I was a pretty pissed off with it by the end. Ultimately though, it was done and fitted good and just take my word for it. 
Today on the other hand, was win after win. I started by taking the clamps off the front panel and pulling it of. This is what I saw:P_20170721_104037.thumb.jpg.cff306c43ac33b51e78a2cba15000e20.jpg

The first thing I wanted to tackle was to pull the old slam panel off to start rebuilding all the mounting flanges. That will take some stiffness out of the inner wings so to prevent them from flapping about I chose to put some bracing in. P_20170721_133227.thumb.jpg.09304e91e5c6dddcde308c9e0419dbf5.jpgThey pick up on the new guard mounting nuts and I welded them in the center. Being 2mm flat bar they're not super heavy but the way I've got them crossed over should mean any flex results in tension being put on the brace rather than compression. In this way they should be plenty strong enough. In theory anyway.

Then I moved on to removing the slam panel. P_20170721_142446.thumb.jpg.e3e375b69e30d4cd998ff10b821f6b52.jpgOn the right you can see where I tried to use my spot weld drill before I got frustrated and used the grinder to somewhat mutilate it and get rid of the crappy mig welds. Then on the left this continued until I tried using the spot weld drill again. This was much more successful after I realised what a miracle sharpened drill bits are. I ran it over the grinding wheel and it was magic the way the panels just popped apart.

Once I had it off I was greeted by a rusty mess which I hit with the wire wheel to see what I had to deal with. This was that:P_20170721_143727.thumb.jpg.7a3c267971261a3fec492c5ba7ea8900.jpgP_20170721_143732.thumb.jpg.a777b940e8d5a8346203c6b631e3385f.jpgNot terrible but massive room for improvement. Which is coming up...

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I started with a plate roughly the right size with a bit to spare. Put a fold in it to form a nice big flange and used the bead roller to start forming the dimple that was in the original panel.P_20170721_171608.thumb.jpg.ce738b84af95a6f9810adad4cd4bfa2d.jpg

Put a bit more shape into the dimple and started to trim it to size.P_20170721_173404.thumb.jpg.c2b587ce7dcf26f439ab38b76d223421.jpg

Then I cut out the rotten part leaving plenty of extra material to spare.P_20170721_190035.thumb.jpg.861fd58c20dbdcf780a4c2dce24ae361.jpgP_20170721_190054.thumb.jpg.a8f56ab61c6715b44bb72eb30da6f2b2.jpg I decided to drill out my nice new spot welds and remove that extra little piece of original material since I'm cutting out everything attached to it too. In hindsight I should have drilled them from the other side but oh well, I can fill them up later.

I continued trimming and fiddling until it fit nicely and clamped up.P_20170721_185636.thumb.jpg.ea3f842e7351f31f97adf6acdee67e02.jpg

So I zapped it in.P_20170721_192225.thumb.jpg.915ad1b924fe141bde75143f420e89e6.jpgI didn't tack the front edge ahead of the dimple because I'm replacing all the steel forward of there anyway later on.

 

That's today's progress so far. I'll probably head back out in a bit and form up the other side too.

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It's been a while because I'm back at school now but finally the weekend happened so I got back into it. 

I didn't take any photos of the other repair panel but I did it the same way as the first. Then I moved on down the front edge of the wing. This is what I had to work with.IoOmu8b.jpg

uEcBvf5.jpg

I decided the best way to deal with it would be to cut most of it off and rebuild it. I started with a paper template.71uZd0O.jpg

Started to transfer it to steel, P6isFPy.jpg

Once it was close I cut out the rotten steel and began to offer it up Xki2U7F.jpg

Then I started to trim the panel up to fit the hole. It was about now that I decided it was all going to well and that I should fuck it up to mix it up a bit. So I cut off too much and had to fix the cock up. l9vvJs5.jpg

Finally I got it trimmed and fitting nicely and clamped it in place to check. W2NxUMO.jpg

Primo. I ran out of time to tack it in but I checked all the measurements and it's centered and square so I'll tack it up when I get a chance. 

I also picked up a new (to me) bonnet which is full of fish oil or some sort of greasy rust inhibitor and in much better nick than my one. So that's another win for me. 34c74aI.jpg

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I got some more work done tonight. I started off by tacking the wing repair panel in and checking everything for squareness and so on.ZAMI9V4.jpg

Looks good. MlhWVrn.jpg

I compared this level reading to one taken from a piece of square tube laid across the rear window frames and they are close enough for me to be happy at this stage. I can fine tune it later on.7m8xOmj.jpg

Then I moved on to the other side. It was in much the same state as the driver's side but I forgot to take a before photo. In any case, this is it after I made up the repair panel and got it fitting nicely. I've not tacked it in yet because I decided to make it as a two-piece panel since the last one was a pig to work on in one big piece. LKL5xag.jpg

Now I have to make the lower part of this panel. This one I did take a before photo of. You can see the marker line showing where I plan to cut out and replace the old steel.VfEBond.jpg

And this is the panel I got knocked up quickly. DHJ3ztK.jpg

It's still in need of some fiddling to get it fitting perfect but it was getting late so that's where I left it for now. I might get this finished up and tacked in tomorrow. We'll see how it goes.

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Prepare for a let down of an update...

The exciting update turned out to be somewhat of a disappointment. Over the last couple of weeks I've been inspired by @yoeddynz 's Viva and I've decided I want to put the mazda klze v6 into the escort. I did some quick measuring up using dimensions I found online and it looks like it will fit (tightly mind), with some small modifications.
I want to put an rx8 six speed gearbox behind it because it is very similar in length to the ford type 9 and puts the shifter in the right spot. There's a guy in the UK that makes adapter plates to out the rx8 box behind all sorts of motors and it's a fairly well documented swap. So that's my new plan; find a kl motor and an rx8 box. 

I started by looking around for an rx8 box. They're hard to find and the ones on trademe are wanting $1250! The whole reason people started putting these boxes into escorts was because they were cheaper than the seirra type 9s! So for now I'm just going to keep a lookout for wrecked rx8s with either the 5 or 6 speed because they both have the same bellhousing bolt pattern so any adapter plate I make or get made will fit both and I can upgrade a 5 speed if I find a 6 later on down the track. Then I started looking into where to get the engine from.

Luckily I found this on trademe.

 600237699.jpg600243045.jpg

It's a Mazda Capella wagon jap import with the 200hp higher compression klze engine in it. The ad said the gearbox was dodgy and would probably needed replacing but I won't need that. Most importantly, he only wanted $900 for it and it was only in Auckland. I figured I'd drive it home babying the gearbox, pull the engine and sell the rest as parts to end up with a fairly cheap motor. That was the plan anyway...

We got down there this morning to find that what he meant by dodgy gearbox was actually a completely non-functioning gearbox that wouldn't pull it away from the curb. Poo. That said, the engine sounded fine and the rest of the car looked really good so the new plan is to find out how much it will cost to get it transported home and as long as it's not too bad I'll truck it back up north and set about stripping it for parts. 

I'm undecided whether to throw the pinto in for the first while so I can still drive it while I build up the v6 and get it organised, or whether I should put the v6 in to begin with so I can do all the fabrication on it at the same time. At the moment I'm leaning toward the second option but I also really want to get in it and drive it as soon as possible so it's a hard choice.

Feel free to give me any suggestions or advice on this mad new development here: 

 

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