Tumeke's '62 Slumber Snipe

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Made the pixies go electronic today with some electronic points.

Lesson 1 - don't always trust the manual. Humber workshop manual suggests that I have a DM6 distributor, however it's a 25D6. This is a good thing as it means I can also update the cap to a push-in type rather than the old acorn screw in type in the future meaning hopefully I can find some new leads that will fit down the deep holes. I'll need to scope out something like DOHC sockets as the current system relies on lead lead holders as seen here.


Excuse the timing light lead running across the bottom right.


http://www.classiccarparts.co.nz/ seem to have a good range of stuff for British cars so I grabbed a Powerspark electronic ignition system from them.

No distructions came with it, however, i pulled down the old one, cleaned it, ripped out the points and condenser and put in a plastic bag that lives in the boot (just in case)

Then slapped the unit with some heat-sync paste and using the existing screws into place, dropped in the blue trigger and put the rotor back on. Wiring is pretty simple - black to negative / red to positive on the coil. I also put a new earth into the dizzy as the other one was a bit sick.



Took it for a drive. Ran like a pig. Found timing was out by about 3 weeks. Re-timed and runs pretty well. Seems to be a bit of hesitation up high, but them pulls through it. I'm not blaming the kit for that yet - the leads and plugs are pretty old, as is the coil, so i'll have another play when I find more toys.

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Winter is cold and stuff but luckily I have a heater that works - however warm air only comes into the cabin at over 60k's as the fan ducting was half missing and what was left was full of holes. 



Original ducting (only 1/4 of what was needed)


Humber - in their wisdom -  decided the best place for the fan is in the right front guard. Um. Anyway, if it was good enough for the Rootes group I guess i'll keep that for now. Ducting therefore from factory came up into the firewall distributor box and into the cabin from there.



Thanks Bunnings. $20 AND It's a proven reliable solution that will last at least three years. (cause it says so on the box eh?)



Looked a bit shiny and there's no need for that



So a can of matte black, couple of cable ties and close enough. (end to be tidied)


Turned it on and it sucked. Literally. Then remembered to reverse the polarity of the fan motor... Ahem. Negative earth now eh...

Boom. As good as factory (i.e. pretty average) but job done.


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There's always some trepidation about the first time you get a WOF check on a car, however my local is pretty sympathetic to older tin and always show me why somethings failed/broke/smells.


They know I'm going to do the work myself so it's not about money making and they always let me know what I should keep an eye on before next time before it turns into an issue which is nice.


This time, I could clearly see the front left shock was rooted though and I really needed to sort this for a WOF.


Funnily enough, Super snipe shocks aren't off the shelf anymore. Repco hasn't heard of a Humber (or a shock probably)

Speedy Spares in the UK has them, but I wanted them now and cheap and stuff.


Anyway, after a bit of asking (Thanks Mr Pog etc) and a bit cross referencing I discovered that Mitsubishi L300 front shocks should fit the holes.


Old vs new

Part number for those playing alone at home is Monroe 15-0251 GT Gas W/- Reflex.


Reasonably painless job to pop them in, WOF passed and life is good. Shit got a birthday and did them both (or cause they come in a pack of two?)



Although not easily noted there is a Kamahl LP on the back parcel shelf for next time I see Threeonthetree.


Notes before next WOF are: Prep and paint surface rust underneath, clean up the brake lines and find some newer looking seat belts - all pretty achievable I reckon.

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There are a few bubbles around the car that suggested rust, but of course they CAN'T be, because the old Barry I purchased the car off said that all repairs were done with SOLID STEEL MAYTE. NO BOG IN THIS CAR.

Thought I'd have a look at the solid steel, so hit it with a disc and found this.


Thanks Barry - Roger. Ok, exploratory surgery required I guess.


There's your problem The Rootes Group, in their vast intelligence, put a lump of foam sponge in between the inner and outter skin. This is the rust filled sponge.


Pulled said sponge out, Rust converted all the inner stuff (still very solid thank goodness) and put some fish oil type stuff throughout all the cavities. Notice the factory inspection hole on the inner guard (sans rubber grommet) so that I can do the same in the future.


Ran out of panel steel, however no one can see the BACK of my filing cabinets, so there might be some missing now. Bent and cut into shape.


Did a welding. The hole above the tacked panel has meat around it so will be a secondary repair after this one. A third repair will be done on the inner door jam as well. I don't have the skill to do it all as one. I'm also sure my work is a bit shit by other peoples standards... But I try!


Seam welded (a few holes still to be finished) and grinded to make sure I was doing stuffs right.

So, first bit of welding done on the car. I have since done the other two repair patches above this one and tidied things up. Etch primer seems to be the same colour as the paint which is handy as I've got a few other patches to tackle when i can be bothered and would rather do all the painting at the end, so it can stay in primer without being too noticeable!

Tell me I'm doing it shit in the 'discuss'. Happy to learn stuffs :) 

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Post Nats update:

Tightened front left wheel bearing, rolled guards a bit more, installed oil, de-greased some bits, changed polarity of windscreen washer so that it squirts instead of sucks. Will remember to take pics next time. 

Things to do: Fix brake shudder.

Still driving it lots. Weekend jaunt on some closed roads (it said ROAD CLOSED AHEAD, not road closed....) around the Clevedon coast with some OSGCs. 


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