Tumeke's '62 Slumber Snipe

[Tumeke]

Granddad spec 1962 Super snipe purchased a few months ago.

 

The 'ol Slumber is reasonably advanced for '62 with power assisted front discs, a hemi'ish head that makes casual observers by think there is more than one cam going on. 

Drive is through 3 on the tree. Plenty of torque - she can be left in top gear most of the time and pulls from pretty much standstill to motorway speeds.

She's no lightweight track car though. 15ft 8" long, 1544 kgs and an oil change will take 15 pints or 8.5 litres.

 

The paint looks like it's possibly house enamel, so I expect 40 seasons out of it, which is good as it has the usual 'nice from afar, far from nice' thing going on.

There's minimal rust as the old boy I purchased it off seems to have sorted most of that out.

Interior is glorious red stuff. Possibly leather but unlikely and lashings of walnut veneer. Picnic tables in the back for tea parties / lines of Raro etc.

 

Since I've picked her up I've done a few things which I'll blog about with photos in the near future.

So far  :

- Changed to negative earth so the pixies run the right way for radios and stuff.

- Given her indicators on a stalk rather than the toggle switch that was cable tied under the dash

- Found the horn relay (this took a lot of time...) and made it all horny

- Re-upholstered the front seat to stop all the foam falling out from underneath and my ass sitting on the frame

- Fitted a stereo, speakers and a sub

- Made head and air come inside the cabin other than from that of the engine

- Made it run on 6 cylinders

- rebuilt the fuel pump

 

Few other items on the agenda. Probably won't be slammed as it's quite nice to full her with 6 people and go for a cruise without loosing the exhaust.

 

So, watch this space.

 

[Tumeke]

Made the pixies go electronic today with some electronic points.

Lesson 1 - don't always trust the manual. Humber workshop manual suggests that I have a DM6 distributor, however it's a 25D6. This is a good thing as it means I can also update the cap to a push-in type rather than the old acorn screw in type in the future meaning hopefully I can find some new leads that will fit down the deep holes. I'll need to scope out something like DOHC sockets as the current system relies on lead lead holders as seen here.

Excuse the timing light lead running across the bottom right.

 

http://www.classiccarparts.co.nz/ seem to have a good range of stuff for British cars so I grabbed a Powerspark electronic ignition system from them.

No distructions came with it, however, i pulled down the old one, cleaned it, ripped out the points and condenser and put in a plastic bag that lives in the boot (just in case)

Then slapped the unit with some heat-sync paste and using the existing screws into place, dropped in the blue trigger and put the rotor back on. Wiring is pretty simple - black to negative / red to positive on the coil. I also put a new earth into the dizzy as the other one was a bit sick.

 

Took it for a drive. Ran like a pig. Found timing was out by about 3 weeks. Re-timed and runs pretty well. Seems to be a bit of hesitation up high, but them pulls through it. I'm not blaming the kit for that yet - the leads and plugs are pretty old, as is the coil, so i'll have another play when I find more toys.

[Tumeke]

Winter is cold and stuff but luckily I have a heater that works - however warm air only comes into the cabin at over 60k's as the fan ducting was half missing and what was left was full of holes. 

 

Original ducting (only 1/4 of what was needed)

 

Humber - in their wisdom -  decided the best place for the fan is in the right front guard. Um. Anyway, if it was good enough for the Rootes group I guess i'll keep that for now. Ducting therefore from factory came up into the firewall distributor box and into the cabin from there.

 

Thanks Bunnings. $20 AND It's a proven reliable solution that will last at least three years. (cause it says so on the box eh?)

 

Looked a bit shiny and there's no need for that

 

So a can of matte black, couple of cable ties and close enough. (end to be tidied)

 

Turned it on and it sucked. Literally. Then remembered to reverse the polarity of the fan motor... Ahem. Negative earth now eh...

Boom. As good as factory (i.e. pretty average) but job done.

 

[Tumeke]

There's always some trepidation about the first time you get a WOF check on a car, however my local is pretty sympathetic to older tin and always show me why somethings failed/broke/smells.

 

They know I'm going to do the work myself so it's not about money making and they always let me know what I should keep an eye on before next time before it turns into an issue which is nice.

 

This time, I could clearly see the front left shock was rooted though and I really needed to sort this for a WOF.

 

Funnily enough, Super snipe shocks aren't off the shelf anymore. Repco hasn't heard of a Humber (or a shock probably)

Speedy Spares in the UK has them, but I wanted them now and cheap and stuff.

 

Anyway, after a bit of asking (Thanks Mr Pog etc) and a bit cross referencing I discovered that Mitsubishi L300 front shocks should fit the holes.

 

Old vs new

Part number for those playing alone at home is Monroe 15-0251 GT Gas W/- Reflex.

 

Reasonably painless job to pop them in, WOF passed and life is good. Shit got a birthday and did them both (or cause they come in a pack of two?)

 

Although not easily noted there is a Kamahl LP on the back parcel shelf for next time I see Threeonthetree.

 

Notes before next WOF are: Prep and paint surface rust underneath, clean up the brake lines and find some newer looking seat belts - all pretty achievable I reckon.

[Tumeke]

Actual transcript from Rootes group meeting circa 1962:

 

"Good job there Jenkins on the Snipe engine! It's a beauty! That generator for the electric pixies is grand! Easy to get off is it?"

"Of course sir. We've used three different bolt sizes and made sure that you can only turn each one 1/8 of a turn at a time."

"Excellent. So, who will know which size each one is?"

"Um, well, erm, not many. Our head mechanic Barry says not to worry though"

 

I appreciate working on Japanese cars sometimes.

 

Decided to update the electrics with an alternator instead of the 'ol generator. What for making the pixies run faster at idle and stuff. The generator and voltage regulator were both a bit dodgy and fequently decided it needed 30 amps into the battery which was a bit silly. I'd tweaked it and got it normal only to have it change itself or do something else stupid.

 

The size difference is reasonably substantial and the weight difference was even more so. I'd used the ACR type alternators before on my Super Minx so thought I'd go with what I know. They're only about $120 trade which isn't too bad.

 

First hurdle was the bracket was quite different so a little fabrication was required. I'm a video editor, not a welder, but it'll do for me. Painted it black to blend in with the oil leaks.

 

Next I changed over the pulley so that i could use the original 1962 Rootes group belt. Still mint.

 

Fabricated another tension bar for the slightly updated position and found a belt in my collection.

At this point I threw away the voltage regulator as it wasn't needed and re-wired things to make them tidy. Big wire is for the big pixies, and goes to the starter solenoid and therefor batter and little wire goes to the warning light and amperage gauge. Voltage regulator goes to the bin.

 

Success. 14 Pixies.

 

 

[Tumeke]

Small update: Hawkes Boes.

 

Big trip from Auckland. So, did the usual check the car before a long trip. Oil change, diff / gearbox check, coolant etc. All good.

 

Went to grab some cable-ties and gaffa tape and the radiator let go. Fluid into the fan, across the engine, up the windscreen etc. Thank goodness for good wiper blades.

Anyway, pulled the rad out and it was obvious that it was poked in more than one place.

 

The poked radiator.

 

With only 4 days till departure I had no choice but to get it re-cored, rather than scavenge something else and make it work (which would be normal procedure)

1 Million dollars later I have a new radiator.

 

Anyway, all fixed I  followed threeonthetree in convoy to Hawkes Boes AND kept up with his younger car comfortably. Which made me think,

 

The car is 54 years old. 

It has three gears.

It weighs a ton and a half.

It has a 3 litre straight six.

 

This isn't going to go well.

 

But then ....

It comfortably does a 697 MILE trip - that's 1121kms over three days. (note - without exploding/ breaking / other such stuff)

It averaged between 11 & 12 litres per 100km. (23ish MPG) I did worse than that in my turbo Subaru.

 

Wat? I'm impressed.

Guess I'll keep her for a bit.

 

Photocred: Roman. Humber at Hawkes Boes camping setup. (It's a BIG tent, not a small car)

 

 

 

[Tumeke]

Did you know that Stirling Moss raced a Super Snipe in a  rally across 15 countries in 5 days in December 1952?

 

I accidentally went for a long drive on the weekend, from Auckland down to Kaiawa through the back roads, then turned left back up the coast road.

This road has a few twists & turns including a hairpin or three, some hill climbs and sweepers. Rally country.

 

I wasn't in a hurry. I never am. But then, from nowhere, I noticed some of BMC's finest front wheel drive wizardry looming large in my mirror.

I thought I'd slow a bit further and let him pass, after all, 'said Barry was right up my bumper with lights on.

 

Barry won't pass. Hmmm.

 

Nailed it. First, Whooooorp! Second, Whoooorp! Third, Cough Whooorp! Speedo bouncing around 30ish. Whoosh!

 

Strangely (probably gasping from the blue exhaust smoke?) I left him behind. However, the first set of twisties were coming....

 

Slowed down hard. Bow thrusters full to port. Tyres protesting. HARD into a left hander. Mid corner bump in the road.....

 

SHIT.....

That's right - the rear shocks are stuffed.....

 

Entertaining I'll tell you. 

 

Said hydrolastic car passed while I changed my pants, however, not to be outdone I thought I'd give chase.

Surprisingly, I kept up -  no substitute for cubes in the hill-climb section I suppose.

 

Anyway, I knew the rear shocks were poked after some hairy corners on the way back from Hawkes Boes so promptly did some research and found that a Toymota Cressida (circa 1978-80) should do the trick.

I ordered a set of Gabriels (because they are red) from Rock Auto. Yes, they cost $14 each + $20 shipping. Ordered them on the 9th. Arrived today. Makes me wonder how Repco stays in business.

 

Old vs new. GABRIEL 81340 [shock Absorber] Guardian Shock for those playing at home

 

Old shocks came out easily. There doesn't seem to be any oil in them at all. Compressed with a finger and no chance of bouncing back. 

New shocks near perfect fit. Bushes are a little smaller, however some dish-washing liquid and a rubber mallet sorted fitment.

 

 

Red for Racing. Look out Alec Issigonis. We shall meet again......

 

All in all a trouble-free hour long Monday night job. Quick jaunt around the block yielded much nicer dampening. Might have to look at a sway-bar next.....

 

 

[Tumeke]

Did some towing. I guess I'm gonna have to start another thread soon for the new project....

Also seemed to have fixed ride height in the back temporarily. 

[Tumeke]

There are a few bubbles around the car that suggested rust, but of course they CAN'T be, because the old Barry I purchased the car off said that all repairs were done with SOLID STEEL MAYTE. NO BOG IN THIS CAR.

Thought I'd have a look at the solid steel, so hit it with a disc and found this.

Thanks Barry - Roger. Ok, exploratory surgery required I guess.

There's your problem The Rootes Group, in their vast intelligence, put a lump of foam sponge in between the inner and outter skin. This is the rust filled sponge.

Pulled said sponge out, Rust converted all the inner stuff (still very solid thank goodness) and put some fish oil type stuff throughout all the cavities. Notice the factory inspection hole on the inner guard (sans rubber grommet) so that I can do the same in the future.

Ran out of panel steel, however no one can see the BACK of my filing cabinets, so there might be some missing now. Bent and cut into shape.

Did a welding. The hole above the tacked panel has meat around it so will be a secondary repair after this one. A third repair will be done on the inner door jam as well. I don't have the skill to do it all as one. I'm also sure my work is a bit shit by other peoples standards... But I try!

Seam welded (a few holes still to be finished) and grinded to make sure I was doing stuffs right.

So, first bit of welding done on the car. I have since done the other two repair patches above this one and tidied things up. Etch primer seems to be the same colour as the paint which is handy as I've got a few other patches to tackle when i can be bothered and would rather do all the painting at the end, so it can stay in primer without being too noticeable!

Tell me I'm doing it shit in the 'discuss'. Happy to learn stuffs  

[Tumeke]

Nats Prep:

Oil changed. The Warehouse currently has a special on for 4 litres of 20w50 for $15.00 each. Not fancy oil - just Caltex Havoline. Soon as I brought this I inherited many half used oils from @Mr Burns so effectively a free oil change apart from filter. Warehouse oil will be used next time.

Seam sealed the rear leaking window rubber, replaced a 6x9 I blew due to not porting the boot, ported the boot with an ali trumpet, and applied some bling.

@Threeonthetree sent me a Facepalm marketplace link for some wheels. 1960's Buick Riviera / Skylark etc in 5x5". They need to be restored at some point, but they had pretty much brand new tyres and some gangsta appeal. Cruised over the the shore and picked them up. Bargain at $300.

Filled car up  - we ready to go. Car now looks more suitably oldschool:

Bigger profile, bigger width. Cruises at 100 much nicer now. Subtle lowering (Makita 'bro) after Nats.

Chur.

 

[Tumeke]

Nats Update:

Drove Car.

Rolled Guards

Met GCs

Did a skids

Did a skids again and runded over a cone

Went to the Warehouse

Trained.

Parked.

Good trip. Would trade again. A+

[Tumeke]

Post Nats update:

Tightened front left wheel bearing, rolled guards a bit more, installed oil, de-greased some bits, changed polarity of windscreen washer so that it squirts instead of sucks. Will remember to take pics next time. 

Things to do: Fix brake shudder.

Still driving it lots. Weekend jaunt on some closed roads (it said ROAD CLOSED AHEAD, not road closed....) around the Clevedon coast with some OSGCs. 

[Tumeke]

Pointless update:

On the way to Nat's I noticed a pretty bad brake judder at highway speeds and thought I should 'prolly do something about it. Diagnosis by default was warped disc etc, however, to eliminate this I pulled the handbrake (Gentle, Mavis...) at highway speed and got vibration. So, we have rear brake issues.

Upon a bit of inspection, it appears the design of the Buick mag had a slightly different dish than the original steels, so it was clamping down on the drum outer rather than standard lug grabbing points. Two options to remedy - pull of drums and machine down high points - which would be nice If i had a mill - and due to the high points being the outer balance points (and balanced by drilling) I didn't want to hit them with an angle grinder in case it made the balancing worse. The easy way out was to get a 3mm alloy spacer.

RAGE (Rough as Guts Engineering services) at your service Ma'am.

Of course, easy is relative - the one's on the tard didn't fit the prescribed 5x127mm (5x5") so I modified some others I had lying around.

 

Joined the Humber club a while ago although hadn't done any events with them until a couple of Sunday's ago an opportunity came up to do a drive to Manawhai via SH16. This fitted in quite well after Caffeine & Classics and I was already over the bridge so thought why not.

By default I was certainly the whipper snapper of the group by a couple of decades minimum -  however great sharns all round. The trip north was best described as tortoiselike, maxing out at a heady 80km on the downhills with a constant cloud of blue smoke on the over-run from all parties. Lush.  Had lunch and a cup of tea at the museum then visited a beach and did skids. (One of the previous things didn't happen)

My favourite new Barry was Mavis (Ann Dimoline) who owns 9. Have a read about her here. The current compendium, each nicknamed by Ann, reads: 1965 Humber Sceptre Mark I (Opo); 1966 Humber Sceptre Mark II (Pearl); 1961 Hillman Minx 111b station wagon (Chanel); 1962 Humber 80 111b station wagon (Toto); 1963 Hillman Super Minx saloon Mark II (BT); 1966 Singer Gazelle Series 6 Auto (Tommy); 1954 Humber 10 MK 7A (Babe); and 1974 Commer pop-top camper (George). What an absolute battler.

 

 

Anne to the left with her Humber 80 Wags named Toto I bless the rains down in Africa  - Gonna take some time to do the things we never had and collection of swarming Barrys.

A fave to be sure - what a great wag - and a daily too - loaded with tools for Robertybob Handyman services.

Otherwise no updates right now, however I have a couple of subtle upgrades in the pipeline, however a few other projects on the boil means they may be in warmer weather. Otherwise long may she continue being a workhorse and doing what car's are meant to be doing - driving and stuff.

Yesterday delivering latest 'investments' to storage for even more future work. Peace y'all.

[Tumeke]

Put this shit in a storage shed two years ago.

Dragged it into 'current projects' shed last night.

#barnfind

[Tumeke]

Resurrection Session 1:

Missing sparks in cylinder number 6. Diagnosis  = bad lead.

Researched and found that VL Commodore RB motors have the right length. Not perfect, but close enough.

Found bargain. Purchased. Fitted.

Next went for a drive to diagnose further problems.

Broke down. Pulled fuel line off crab and noted no fuel coming through.

Luckily a strong and powerful rescue car turned up to help with a Jerry can that was rigged direct to the carburetor to return home.

This worked fine until the Jerry can ran out.  Ran the last 200 metres on brake-kleen sprayed directly into the carb whilst perched on the guard. 

Diagnosed fuel blockage in tank and now dead electric pump.

Cleaned out tank and gave it a paint. Will now try sourcing a new pump and nylon lines.

 

 

[ThePog]

7 minutes ago, Tumeke said:

Ran the last 200 metres on brake-kleen sprayed directly into the carb whilst perched on the guard.

Genuine lol

[Tumeke]

Still have a blockage somewhere in the fuel system but it is a intermittent thing. FFS.

Anyway, got a WOF.

Went to the Raza because Humber.

 

 

[Tumeke]

Picture update: (I haven't had to fix anything lately)

Back Seat Xmas Party 

Wedding Duty.

No photos of various trailer moving duties, Leadfoot, Holiday cruises etc.