OldNathan Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 My sisters Supercustom 1KZ Hiace has lost O/D of late. I drove it today and it will not change from 1st into 2nd. Revs higher and higher then a harsh bang into 3rd. I can go back through the gears manually and back into second so thats still there, just will not go from 1st into second by itsself or manually. If you are going maybe 70km/h or more and push in the O/D button the light on the dash flashes(continuous not a code flash) but still wont go into O/D. And lastly if you push the ECT button it will not change gear at all. Just sits there reving until you release the button, them bang into 3rd. Anyone know much on how to diagnose this stuff? As in how to check solenoids or valve bodys? Nate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVMPAJ Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 My Mitsi did about the same and found the earth strap from the motor to the frame had come off. Another car it was limp mode and the reversing light fuse had blown!. Maybe check those simple things first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 Yea sounds like its in manual mode, if the solenoids are not sequencing the box will shift from 1st to 3rd when in D. There tech documents on all this on autoshop101 which I can go through later tonight. You should be able to get the ECU to spit out trans codes on the OD light Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldNathan Posted October 18, 2012 Author Share Posted October 18, 2012 This sounds very helpful. Im keen to give it a whirl. Been told the solenoids are fairly easy to get to aswell once pan is removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 Yea at this stage if its in manual mode dont jump to any conclusions, could be something simple like a faulty speed sensor hopefully I was going to cut paste the relevant pages but to lazy/should be working http://www.autoshop1.../forms/AT25.pdf I dont know the age of the vehicle, should be OBD-1 I guess? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil_si Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 Oil condition will give you an idea if the box is tired, if its got atf in it, make sure its nice and red, if its brown and burnt smelling then be worried, Your problem sounds like a speed sensor, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldNathan Posted October 18, 2012 Author Share Posted October 18, 2012 Its a 1994 with the rectangle diagnostic plug. Allan wacked his works fault code machine thingy bijigy on it today but it only picked up the engine not the trans. No codes were in that which I thought they would have been stored in there if it was getting its information form the ECU memory? Looks like from site that its bridge E1 and TE1 to get the O/D flashing anyway and see if I can pull a code. Oil is red and doesnt smell also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldNathan Posted October 18, 2012 Author Share Posted October 18, 2012 Right have hit a snag. The cap of the diagnostic plug had al the letters on it and it matched that OBD-1 plug. I bridged E1 and TE1 together and the engine light started flashing with no breaks. Not the O/D light. Now Im lost haha Edit I did just find this on another site.... Place a jumper wire across TEl and El terminals in engine check connector. Count number of flashes from CHECK ENGINE light. If system is operating normally (with no detected faults), the CHECK ENGINE light will blink continuously and evenly about 2 times a second. So this would tell me there are no faults in my ECU. But the autoshop101 site says the O/D light? Is one trans and one engine? We know the engine has no fault codes and maybe this is what the flashing is telling me, but is there a seperate way to get the trans codes? If thats possible. Edit: Also just checked her trans fluid and I dont know how accurate the dipstick is but each time it is about half an inch ABOVE where it should be on the hot level. But the engine is cold. So its about and inch and a half above the cold level mark. I'll drain it over the weekend and see how much is in it. That autoshop101 talks about being if it is overfull it can cause agitation and aeration and have the same effects as low oil. Interesting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 Yea you've got to check it with it running man, it sounds normal, overfulling a trans a couple hundred mill (half an inch on the dipstick) on a service is a normal procedure also. If the fluid is nice and red move on from that being a problem, also fluid and related wear problems usually lead to sloppy shifts and slipping. Your fault sounds to be its fully manual shifting so the solenoids/ECU/something aren't doing shit That article says to jump the pins with the od switch in a certain postion doesnt it? to me if you have had the OD light flashing at you then the ECU has found a trans related fault that it should spit out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldNathan Posted October 18, 2012 Author Share Posted October 18, 2012 Yeah this is what I thought and was also told from an Automatic guy in Auckland I rang for advice.He said flashing OD light was telling me there is a fault. It says do it with the O/D in the on position(so that would make the light off) which I did. Its only flashes when you try to put it into overdrive at speed. The ECT button is what makes me think it is electric not mechanical. Also in the list of codes for the Hiace it has trans codes in it so I would have thought it would have stored whaever is happening to it in there as well. But nada. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVMPAJ Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 When my galant went into limp mode the diagnostic plug didn't work cos the reversing light blew the fuse that fed the ECU . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldNathan Posted October 18, 2012 Author Share Posted October 18, 2012 Was it telling you everything was ok or did it just not work at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVMPAJ Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 The diagnostic tool came up with "unable to connect" so I drove home in third gear surfed the net and found a forum asked the question and ten mins later a guy in the US said check the reversing light fuse .( yeah right ) low and be hold that was it !.It still blows every now and then but better that tearing my hair out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldNathan Posted October 18, 2012 Author Share Posted October 18, 2012 Yeah mine connects and tells us the engine has no codes stored. Dont know why trans ones dont come up though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camel Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 It sounds like it could possibly be a faulty speed sensor but that would bring up the OD light fault flash for sure. Have you disconnected the solenoid plug on the box and performed a manual shift test? This would be the next step for sure to confirm the valve body is working accordingly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldNathan Posted October 18, 2012 Author Share Posted October 18, 2012 Sounds like a plan. If the solenoid is unplugged will it still go through the gears on upshift? It isnt at the moment but will go into second on downshift. If the solenoid is pooed it would be in manual shift now anyway wouldnt it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camel Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 If you unplug the valve body loom and go for a drive you should be able to start in L and manually shift up through the gears as this is using the hydraulic side as opposed to the electronic side of the valve body. If it is still won't shift manually into second with the valve body unplugged then you have an internal issue as opposed to an electronic/sensor issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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