Benno Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 Hey guys, been having a little issues with my ignition timing on my Escort. I've put in an electronic ignition kit, after which starting and idling improved quite a lot. I borrowed a timing light and set the timing to 8 degrees, after which it seemed to run a bit smoother, but the starting was much worse. As my workshop manual doesn't have the timing values in it I guessed 8 degrees, but this may be wrong. What is the correct timing I should set it to? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 8 degrees should be fine. Can't see why it would be an issue with that - I suspect something else. Without sounding silly - Have you got the marks identified correctly - ie BTDC not ATDC and are the graduations correct - sometimes the graduations are 2 degrees and sometimes they are 5 degrees each mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benno Posted June 28, 2012 Author Share Posted June 28, 2012 Well, I have only changed the ignition timing and fiddled with the idle adjustment, I doubt the idle adjustment would change the starting. I am fairly sure, there are only 3 marks on the block which are labelled 4 8 and 12. I'm almost certain that they are BTDC as it wouldn't be running well at all at 8 ATDC, and as each is labelled I don't think I could have gone too far wrong there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 vacuum advance pipe removed wehn setting the timing? (shouldnt make much of a difference tho) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 Do Escorts have a ballast resistor - either external or in the wiring loom? Electronic ignition is not designed to run via a ballast. If you have bypassed the ballast have you changed the coil etc as well as you will need to do so.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benno Posted June 28, 2012 Author Share Posted June 28, 2012 Yeah, I removed it and put my finger over the end. So 8 degrees is definitely the right timing? I assumed it wasn't 4 degrees, and 8 degrees seemed more logical to me then 12. Yes, escorts do have a ballast resistor. I have run a separate wire from the 12v ignition wire before the ballast to the electronic ignition module, but the coil itself it still running with the ballast resistor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 Yes, escorts do have a ballast resistor. I have run a separate wire from the 12v ignition wire before the ballast to the electronic ignition module, but the coil itself it still running with the ballast resistor. I'm guessing thats the problem right there.. The electronic ignitioon will be designed to run without the ballast in its entirety.. Have you got a test light? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 The purpose of the dual circuit where it bypasses the ballast on crank is so the coil gets 12V when cranking and it gives a nice fat spark - then it will switch to 6V via the ballast once you release the key - if you are running it through the ballast the whole time - it will only give the coil 6V (and therefore a weak spark)when cranking.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 I figure if you ONLY remove the ballast - then you will then have 12V going to the coil the whole time - if it is a ballast dependent coil then the coil WILL burn out quickly. So the answer is to delete the ballast resistor and fit a NON Ballast dependent coil - your problem should be fixed. (but I cannot see how you have done the rest of your wiring so can't say that conclusively) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benno Posted June 28, 2012 Author Share Posted June 28, 2012 That makes sense, I'll look into getting a replacement coil. When I had first fitted the electronic ignition, before I messed around with the timing it seemed to start without any issues though. There's a (shit) diagram of how it is currently set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 Yeah - draw me a picture of how it was to start with but in your circumstances I would delete the ballast - procure and run with a 12V coil - problem should be solved.. Even if you just bypassed the ballast to test - you can at least see if it starts easier.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benno Posted June 28, 2012 Author Share Posted June 28, 2012 Gave shorting the ballast a go, didn't actually help at all. Even once it first fires, it kind of coughs and splutters its way into life whereas previous to adjusting the timing it would start smoothly. Unfortunately I was stupid enough to not mark where the distributor was previously set to, so can't revert it to check. If I'm right, when the solenoid is switched on (starter turning over) it automatically shorts out the resistor? I measured the voltage across when it was turning over, and it was definitely higher then when it actually started. I will replace the coil soon anyway, but I am fairly sure that the fact it has a ballast coil & resistor l isn't really affecting things too much. Appreciate the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 OK then - good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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