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ca18det escort engine mounts


low_mk2_escort

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sorry i thought i had some old pics but i cant find them.

anyway yeah i just put the crossmember in dropped the box and engine in and played around till it all looked sweet

(remmember the ca sits on the cock a wee bit) all i did was make sure the front bowl of the sump looked even .

lifted the engine so it was clear of the crossmember and steering rack.

the put the rubber mounts on the ca and a small straigt egde and marks on the escort crossmember how far down and on what angle

the post would be cut dwon to.

then measure how far forwwod you will need to make them to pick up the rubber mounts.

then pulled it all out cut the post down + 6mm to allow for the 6mm plate i used.

and gussted the fron the underside and bolted it all back in to see how it sat and where i would drill the holes for the engine mounts.

and you can see in my build pics how i did the gearbox crossmember.

good luck mate

dan

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  • 8 months later...

Got the engine sitting in there on the round cortina mounts just looking for a bitta feed back and advice on how its sitting its a few mill off the steering rack via the sump and the gearbox is pulled hard upwards against the tunnel just wanting to know if i should lift the gearbox tunnel again to try level out the engine sum more or if its ok for the engine to be tilt backwards slightly did any one else space there gearbox mounts to drop it lower or am i better off having the shaft end up a few mills from the tunnel?

few pics to help explain were im at

20120615141809.jpg

20120615141720.jpg

20120615141708.jpg

20120615141609.jpg

any advice welcome

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looks good mate. the more level the better, give the box a bit of room to move in the tunnel under torque loading so it doesnt hit, you also want the pinion angle of ya diff to match the angle of ya engine/gbox, this will help eliminate any annoying driveline vibrations, i found this out the hard way and had to lift my gearbox a bit more. Heres a pic straight off google

degree.jpg

see how the g/box and diff lines are parallel to each other and the angles are equal and opposite, if you get it like this that would be ideal, but close enough good enough.

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the main thig you need to look at with the motor is if the oild will easyly drain to the front.

if yes then the motors ok.

i cut the gear stcik hole so that the hole shifter plate was inside

gearxw.png

but apart from cutting the old gearbox mounts from the tunel i didnt modify my taunnel atall.

i didnt have any issues with vibrations.

but if i was doing it again i would have done it like Glenns (QCADTA) as with the fj20 im using now i cut the tuneel out completelty.

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