Simon Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 Hi Oldschool, My friend and I have attempted to remove this beauty's head however the cam chain needs to come off first. How? People think there is a split in the chain but I have been told there is no split. Not looked for myself though. Uncle J ? Tis a weird one.. Sincerely Fernando Charlemagne-Alexandre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 line up timing marks (if it has any) undo top pulley slide off win you may nee dto make sure you've backed the tensioner off if that's do-able, and perhaps use a strategically placed cable tie to stop chain going wayward on you. that's what you do with m series anyways, was a piece of piss. also, lold at how m sereis that chain and pulely and tensioner garb all looks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 25, 2010 Author Share Posted November 25, 2010 Yeah it has marks. I tried whacking the pully off with the bolt removed. It definitely moved about half the pully width but the tensioner which I guess is hydro is close to the cam gear and it feels like the chain is getting too much tension / stress on it as you can't bend a chain sideways. But if you assure me that's how you do it we will just force it off. Thought there may be a nicer way haha. <3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 there quite possibly is. m series have two small bolts which hold it aginst a machining on the cam. you undo those and it only has to slide about 5mm. there's a tensioner spring thing with adjuster on the side of the block which jsut completely unscrews to let the tensioner ilder sprocket go way back to give you mega slack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 25, 2010 Author Share Posted November 25, 2010 There is a big allan key plug type thing on the right hand side of the engine inline with the tensioner. Probably this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 Probably. hah. you really need to find a thread/manual/goat that knows specifics tbhirl. I'd poull that plug if it were me and go from there hah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 Yup remove the plug - whats the worst that can happen other than the tensioner falling into the sump and you have to drop its pants to get the tensioner out.. (I have neeever done that before... LOL) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 25, 2010 Author Share Posted November 25, 2010 Awesome, will give it another shot. I love how we can trawl the internet and ask the same question on a euro forum and get not one helpful response out of 25. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 yuh 9 times of out 10 forums are all about waxing their cars and sending them to the dealer. they'll tell you to do both. I love the 'should you be working on brakes?' deal that most forums outside a couple of nz forums i frequent, have Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 There is a big allan key plug type thing on the right hand side of the engine inline with the tensioner.Probably this? That is the cam chain tension bung, but your earlier guess was correct. The tension is hydraulic. I have never entirely got how they work. I recall the bung being on the driver's side of the block though. WRT the cam chain - it may or may not have removable links. I seem to recall that the last M180 engine I did only had a single row chain. TBH I can't offer much advice. When we did the motor on our W111 I paid a guy to do it as we wanted some enhancements made and KKK, Mathers and I were so bloody busy on the rest of the car that the engine seemed a good thing to outsource. Why is the head coming off? Oil burn on over run? I see you are using the dreaded Zenith carbs. They are an arse to get right. Cool W114 but (did I know you had that?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 EDIT - I prolly have a Haynes manual for that motor. Lemme look in the weekend. You can have it if I do. Oh - that car isn't a 250C BTW unless it is an odd one. Probably a 250S and it would be unusual (but not impossible) to see a carbed 2.8. Most likely a 2.5 - but the odd 2.8 carbed motor is around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 25, 2010 Author Share Posted November 25, 2010 Nah its a mates, but I want it bad. Its so tidy. The head is coming off because of a BHG. Milky oil etc. The carbs have just been set up so I took the manifold off and left everything attatched to it haha. Not risking it. Chur guise. fake edit: He priced up a haynes at $100! So he will be over the moon if so. <3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 Yeah. Lemme check the shed on Saturday or Monday. I think I have one laying there. He can have it for free etc. It is unusual for them to blow a HG unless there is awful corrosion in the water galleries (due to years of no antifreeze). I see it is an auto so I guess skids didn't get done. I would be checking elsewhere for a water to oil issue first. EDIT: I had mentioned the combination radiator/trans cooler as being suspect in this post, but of course that could not get water in the engine oil. I have deleted my shame. Later 2.8 engines had a air cooled engine oil cooler. Could this engine have a radiator cooled engine oil cooler? If so then check that before pulling the head off. A BHG does not seem likely unless your mate has been very, very silly with this motor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 25, 2010 Author Share Posted November 25, 2010 It has both air and water coolers. I am pretty sure it is water trans and air oil. I will have to get him to czech. But I'm sure once we get the head off all will become clear. I did notice the owner was keen to run it on straight water. Which is something I will never do after seizing my MR2. But I don't think he has owned it for long. Did I mention <3? Will pass it on chur. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted December 11, 2010 Share Posted December 11, 2010 I have hardly been to the workshop but I got there today and I have that workshop manual for you. It is 1968-1972 but the engine and carb set-up should be the same. Want? Send delivery address and I will post it next week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted December 11, 2010 Author Share Posted December 11, 2010 Oh chur bro, nah he ended up forking out for one from Deutsche Land. Then precoded to take the head off himself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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