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Best way to check HT leads?


m0ss4yy

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Just reread your symptoms - have you cleaned the points before installing them?

FYI - New points come with a thing film of anti-corrosion on the contact tips - you HAVE to clean this off before installing them because it will contaminate your points once you run them and the car will cease to run or at least run like an ass at best.....

Best method of cleaning points is to clamp the contact tips together with a corner of a clean rag between the contact tips and rub it back and forth firmly on the rag 10-20 times.

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your comment about testing the cap by holding coil next to the block confuses the fuck outta me. It makes zero sense..

If you have the HT lead still attatched to the coil, but the other end off the dizzy, and u hold the "free" end about 5mm or something away from the block, and turn on the ignition circuit, it should create a blue spark between the block and the lead?

That indicates that the fault would have to lie somewhere within the dizzy cap, rotor, carbon tip, or points possibly cause it would mean the coil is working

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Just reread your symptoms - have you cleaned the points before installing them?

FYI - New points come with a thing film of anti-corrosion on the contact tips - you HAVE to clean this off before installing them because it will contaminate your points once you run them and the car will cease to run or at least run like an ass at best.....

Best method of cleaning points is to clamp the contact tips together with a corner of a clean rag between the contact tips and rub it back and forth firmly on the rag 10-20 times.

Yeah i cleaned them with a wee bit of petrol and dried them

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your comment about testing the cap by holding coil next to the block confuses the fuck outta me. It makes zero sense..

If you have the HT lead still attatched to the coil, but the other end off the dizzy, and u hold the "free" end about 5mm or something away from the block, and turn on the ignition circuit, it should create a blue spark between the block and the lead?

That indicates that the fault would have to lie somewhere within the dizzy cap, rotor, carbon tip, or points possibly cause it would mean the coil is working

yes it would 75% eliminate the coil as a possible issue (but it doesn't exclude it entirely)

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Just reread your symptoms - have you cleaned the points before installing them?

FYI - New points come with a thing film of anti-corrosion on the contact tips - you HAVE to clean this off before installing them because it will contaminate your points once you run them and the car will cease to run or at least run like an ass at best.....

Best method of cleaning points is to clamp the contact tips together with a corner of a clean rag between the contact tips and rub it back and forth firmly on the rag 10-20 times.

Yeah i cleaned them with a wee bit of petrol and dried them

Never heard of points being cleaned this way but it may be an acceptable way to do it.. (I wouldn't though)

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I have just had an idea based on information given to me.

Apparently, a guy who owned a Hillman took it to a garage in Auckland, completely standard, but it had a couple gaskets missing off the fuel pump, so it was pumping around 14psi. (should be 2.5-3psi)

So I may want to check that my fuel pump is at 2.5-3psi, cause that could be squirting way to much fuel in. Already checked the needle valve in the float bowl, that's free and fine.

I'll try the coil thing, and check the rotor aswell like you suggested KK. If theres no fault, i'll move on to the fuel pump.

Would i need like a pressure tester or something to test that \ how the fuck :lol:

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Never heard of points being cleaned this way but it may be an acceptable way to do it.. (I wouldn't though)

When the new points were in, and I opened up the gap, it sparked where the condensor and LT lead touch the points? But on the new points, they were in the EXACT same place and everything, but yet the spark was where it should be on the old ones? Maybe the new points were double earthed or some shit?

Remove the cap and take the coil HT out of the centre of the cap - hold it approx 5-10mm above the centre of the rotor and get someone to crank the engine -

if you see a spark jump the gap between the lead and rotor - replace the rotor

Wouldnt that indicate that the rotor is ok? Or is it not meant to jump?

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When the new points were in, and I opened up the gap, it sparked where the condensor and LT lead touch the points? But on the new points, they were in the EXACT same place and everything, but yet the spark was where it should be on the old ones? Maybe the new points were double earthed or some shit?

^^ make sure there wasnt a little plastic insulator or somthing on the old set and not the new set?

brfore you move on to the fuel system you have to be 100% sure the ignition side is ok or you will go in circles,

with it all together how it should be remove one spark plug and put the lead back onto it, then earth the plug on the block or better yet with a small jumper lead to a good earth, crank the engine and check is has good spark- do this one at a time to all the plugs with their own lead.

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tested compression with my thumb, leads with multimeter, and spark by holding the plugs.. the ones in there and the spares had a farely weak spark, new plugs, fired basically first time. so its all sweet now 8) they seemed fine and were sparking ok, but the new ones just ripped into it.. quality :lol:

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I cant be bothered reading your spiel

When I had problems I could see sparks both inside the leads, coil lead in particular and places where sparks were jumping from coil end to body etc.

Start car up at night time so its real dark and just look and listen for sparks jumping.

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