My name is Russell Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 Tomorrow night im going to weld the hilux diff onto its seats so need to get it centered, running parallel and the diff head at the correct angle. Does the flange on the diff head just need to run straight for the back of the gearbox yoke or should they be at a parallel angle? What sort of tolerance do i have to play with? / how accurate do i need to be? Could always make some wedge shaped blocks if i fuck it up but would prefer to avoid this. Can then get on with making my new 'special' tramp bar design and pan hard rod. yays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toyabusa Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 parallel but offset to eachother, so the shaft is at an angle. with no angle the crosses will wear out by point loading the rollers rather than them rolling inside the cups. you have quite a bit of tolerence, also if you are after more traction you could look into pointing the pinion flange down a little Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted November 16, 2009 Author Share Posted November 16, 2009 Great cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted November 16, 2009 Author Share Posted November 16, 2009 So it should be done as the top one in the picture bellow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toyabusa Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 yea man. If you have a good look at how the uj's work you'll see what i mean about the rollers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 and to climb aboard this ere subject. in regard to the diff head being offset to the gearbox (as below) thats a bit exaggerated but whats the max legit/advisable angle, have seen it on some modern 4wd's but never measured it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forced Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 You ideally want it as straight as you can get it (when the power is on).Leaf springs wind up with power, 4 bars don't. It's excessive angles when the power is on that breaks UJs ending up with a thrown driveshaft. Been there , done that. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toyabusa Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 uj's are NOT designed to work at no angle and will NOT last like this, show me one factory setup that has no angle and I will buy you a box of beer. from what manufactures say they will last the longest at anywhere from 3-5 degrees. my starlet shaft was between 15-20 degrees ( we had to clearance the yokes to not bind ) not ideal at all and wouldnt be the go on a road car but it did not wear out crosses and did not fail even getting spun to 10500rpm parallel but offset is the ticket, so both crosses are at the same but opposite angle to cancel out the change in speed they go through on every rotation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 what about if the rear end is irs/ the diff doent move Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLAWLES Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 uj's are NOT designed to work at no angle and will NOT last like this, show me one factory setup that has no angle and I will buy you a box of beer. do you just mean automotive? cause i can show you some ag stuff that works on some wicked angles that are running gearbox's and some transmissons but there are ways around things like these comes down to uj size and yoke/fork size Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toyabusa Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 yea angle is good, no angle bad. with irs there will be angle built in with the gearbox and diff parallel but higher and lower than eachother, or off to one side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forced Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 You misunderstood my words. When you put the power on, everything moves unless it's IRS with a fixed diff head (even that moves a bit). At full power you want it as straight as possible, when the power is off there'll be an angle. Excessive angles bugger up your UJs as in the case of my car when the rear engine mount split and sagged, transfer case dropped and the front UJ by the transfer case overheated and started squeaking. If you've got a 4WD Mitsi it's the broken engine mount at the back that breaks transfer cases when you launch it....why? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 simple rules... never straighter than 1.5deg. diff head to average the same angle as the engine is. done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 Learn something every day. Do you have to be careful when going real low with a factory solid rear setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toyabusa Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 simple rules...never straighter than 1.5deg. diff head to average the same angle as the engine is. done ^ this^ At full power you want it as straight as possible yea close to straight but not straight, as eke_zetec_RWD said maybe no less than 1.5deg, just so that the rollers are rolling as they are designed to do. when the rollers dont roll a couple of them take all the load, disform and then you have play and a disaster is not far away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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