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corona conversion


rbrona

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Forget that soarer junk! :P

Will give you positive camber in a corona.

Factory vented struts from an AA63 carina/celica, or AT141 corona are the go. Doesnt screw with your geomometry at all, and plenty good enough for most cases.

Been in a race car still running up these, hauls up mean at pukekohe with good pads and fluid.

Have also sussed out a big brake upgrade that doesnt increase front track at all, that fits carina/corona/celica/soarer/etc.

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ohk.il look into it abit more.do you know of any other struts that would bolt in??also looking for a diff,might just have to shorten a hilux

Get an F series diff from any RA40 or similar or RA60 or similar celica or carina... Bolts straight in, and big enough to take some abuse!

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Bolt spacing on the z10/xt141 struts have the same bolts for nissan 4 pot calipers.

I had photos of some but lost them. U use VW van discs and you dont need any caliper spacers.

I need some of the 4 pots to test fit, but reckon I'll have sussed a way that means no disc over front of the hub, no spacer for caliper.

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Bolt spacing on the z10/xt141 struts have the same bolts for nissan 4 pot calipers.

I had photos of some but lost them. U use VW van discs and you dont need any caliper spacers.

I need some of the 4 pots to test fit, but reckon I'll have sussed a way that means no disc over front of the hub, no spacer for caliper.

Share this info when you do ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Basically, the problem with AA63/TA63 struts/hubs is that there isnt much space between the back of the hub, and the mounting bracket for the caliper. So hard to fit bigger/thicker discs.

The townace hub has a lot more space at the back for fixing a disc, so the bigger discs which have a step in them could fit up sweet.

Townace hub uses the same wheel bearings as TA63/AA63 etc (Not AA60 non vented etc though)

I'm running SW20 MR2 calipers, citreon Xantia rotors, and townace hubs like this:

54030510.jpg

With like a 20mm spacer between the caliper and the caliper bracket on the strut, to put the caliper in the right place.

I reckon with some nissan 4 pots, could bolt them right to the strut and find a disc to suit the offset, rather than using a spacer. Should be good amount of clearance for oldschool style wheels this way. And easily less than half the weight of MR2 caliper + spacer, so it's win win.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hmmm I wrote down some of my ramblings/findings about the hubs, where did I put that....

Here we go:

TA63:

Front bearing:

p/n#43510C

p/n#90368-19037

Rear bearing

p/n#43510B

p/n#90368-31067

hub:

p/n#43502

p/n#43502-29035?

ST141:

Front bearing:

same

Rear bearing:

same

hub:

same

1983 townace:

Rear bearing:

Same

Front bearing: same

hub:

Different, part number 43502-20010

(Stepped disc?)

1983 MZ10:

Front bearing:

Same

Rear bearing:

same

hub:

Same, and different?

p/n#43502-29015

p/n#43502-29035

1988 Toyota Cresta (gx71)

Bearings the same, 4x114

hub number:

p/n#43502-22040 (steppted disc?)

1981 Cressida:

Same hub as ST141

1990 Townace...

Still the same bearings & 4 stud...

Hub is either 43502-20010 (same as old) or 43502-28030 (when with 14" disc, CR28 only?)

1996 townace

Hub still part number 43502-20010

So yeah if you cant find a townace hub, try a GX71 cressida, might work in the same way as they have a stepped disc on the back instead of flat. But I havent seen one personally so cant say for sure...

Part number for townace hubs all the same all the way from 1983 through to 1996!

And hubs from cressida, corona, carina, celica, soarer, townace, and a few others that I checked all run the same wheel bearings, (For versions with vented discs, anyway) so presumably able to swap the hubs as required.

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I've also got a cad drawing for the spacer required to fit facelift SW20 front calipers here if anyone wants it.

Will be better off with nissan calipers bolted directly to the strut, and a disc to suit though! More clearance and better brakes, and lighter.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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