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Brake upgrade on KE25


eskynut

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OK chaps

I'm going to put a 3 m/c (2 for brakes, 1 for clutch) and adjustable balance bar pedal box set-up in my rally car and am wondering should I "upgrade" the front brakes at the same time? Or would they be OK to leave as is?

I've got KE70 struts and brakes in it at the mo. I've pulled the motor etc to repaint the engine bay and tidy car up - so while it's in pieces.......

Car is running a 4A-GE carbed and T50.

Ideas? :wink:

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It depends on the size of the master cylinder bore/size of the calipers. a smaller bore will give more force (pressure) at the calipers for the same foot pressure, but will require more travel. Bigger bore caliper pistons will give more force for the same pressure, but require more travel.

So its a balance of MC/caliper areas and brake pedal leverage/driver input force. that said, most people just bung whatever in as far as I can tell.

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  • 2 weeks later...

have you had problems stopping the car or having overheating problems? if not.. why bother?

do you intend going faster or improving driving skill that you think you'll need better brakes in future? then yes do it.

if using on gravel rallying.. keep it as light as you can so the wheels stay on the road. (ie forget cressida stuff). ae86 vented struts are commonly used to upgrade ke25 using the p/s ae86 steering arms or import some te21/te27/te28 steering arms to keep same steering lock. and then a lowering spring and shock upgrade, oh and camber plates :)

otherwise dig through the dba catalogue for some bigger vented disks that'll fit the ke70 struts and make some caliper mounts for larger calipers. late ke70 or ae85/ae86 strut would be more suitable for disk upgrades as they don't have a thread in the disk.. so you can redrill the disk to suit the hub. or if you like huge brakes.. skyline or bluebird disks sitting over top of hub with longer studs and a caliper upgrade.

if your pedal goes to the floor.. upsize the master cylinder. hope you have an adjustable brake bias valve with the brake upgrade

chur

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Cheers guys.

What started it all was I need to convert the clutch back to hydraulic (t50 orig hyd, but this has been cable operated) and to do this I really need to put in a pedal box as there is no room to fit m/c on the firewall. So to do this I may as well fit a complete setup and I may as well at the same time set it up with adjustable balance bar and hydraulic h/brake and bias valve. So I also thought I could, if it was simply a bolt-on thing, I could replace calipers and rotors.

I will prob just leave w/clyinders and calipers and just do pedal box for now.

There's a awesome dude here in chch, Les Hunter, who is helping me at the mo sort out pedal box and correct size m/c's. Just got to build a frame to mount pedal box under steering column and it'll be sweet.

Here's Les's website. He really knows his stuff!!!

http://www.leshunterauto.com/home.htm

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