Gaz Posted December 28, 2007 Share Posted December 28, 2007 If anyone has one lying round could they measure tghe distance from steering rod end to steering rod end.. With the arms out straight. Much appreciated.. last thing to sort for cert! Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy_rich Posted December 29, 2007 Share Posted December 29, 2007 yo, what a coincidence, ive been messing round with racks this week too, getting a R33 one to fit in my capri. Capri's width from end of tie rod thread, to end of tie rod thread (no rose joints) equals 43.5" (1105ish) but more importantly, the width between the inner ball joints is 26.5" (measurements taken from a 1974 mk 1 capri.) hope this helps you, i've got a steering rack in a million bits if you want any more measurements off it. chur. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted December 29, 2007 Share Posted December 29, 2007 yea the inner joint width is important for bump steer. make a imaginary triangle between your bottom arm joint joint on crossmember, the swaybar bush on front of car and the upper bearing of strut. the inner joint of the rack shud be in this plain, or very close, when pointing strait ahead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy_rich Posted December 29, 2007 Share Posted December 29, 2007 I've just copied the width, and location of the old capri rack, just on the other side of the crossmember with the skyline one. i.e. same height, distance from centreline of the crossmember, same distance between inner ball joints etc. should be right eh? kinda hope so cos im just about to weld my new mounts on haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy_rich Posted December 29, 2007 Share Posted December 29, 2007 I'm now 90% certain that what im doing will screw up the Ackerman angle. shit. sorry for hijacking your thread Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted December 29, 2007 Share Posted December 29, 2007 oh mate did you swap sides of your struts? then move rack to behind fr wheel line? fuk nah cant do that a! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted December 29, 2007 Share Posted December 29, 2007 but! if you get esky struts with the removable steering arm and make a custom steering arm ( lazer for water jet cut from 16mm plate steel ) then it mite be ok. sounds like you know about the Ackerman angle shit so u shud understand what i mean..... line between top ov strut, bottom balljoint and tie rod shud go thur center of rear diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy_rich Posted December 29, 2007 Share Posted December 29, 2007 you mean these suckers? The way i figured, since they're both the same angle it shouldnt matter with them being on opposite sides, mustnt have done enough research, but i cant see how it'd be a problem, how would i have to make them differently if i was to make new ones? I'm not swapping the TCA's, just the struts. TCA's seem to dictate all the camber/ castor/toe etc, I've just googled to try to find some diagrams, do you know of any good reference sites? is it this angle thats going to cause problems? I drew a rough diagram on autocad last night, figured if i took the measurement from the centreline of the lower bush to the outer rose joint on the rack then the measurement from the xmember to the inner ball joint, and added the difference to the first measurement, it'd give me back the 2odd degrees difference in the 2 wheels, where as the way i had it before would have effectively made the outer wheel cut a tighter circle. haha i bet you'll have to read that twice for it to make any sense, I'm better with pictures. thanks for your help dude. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy_rich Posted December 29, 2007 Share Posted December 29, 2007 woofkin hoo look at this http://www.nationaltbucketalliance.com/ ... kerman.asp http://www.nationaltbucketalliance.com/ ... /index.asp http://www.bakerprecision.com/longacr17a.htm http://www.rqriley.com/suspensn.htm fully gonna tech this thread out now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted December 29, 2007 Share Posted December 29, 2007 yea bro read that shiz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy_rich Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 yo dude, cheers for putting me right there, would have understeered straight into a powerpole otherwise, I'm going to try use the standard steering arms turned around the other way for a start, since im going low there could be enough movement in the ball joints to allow for the angle in it, otherwise ill make up some new billet ones with an adjustable height rosejoint from 4340 or similar. just another bump in the road, car building is interesting like that eh.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 just taper reem thru from other side bro, if the skiline rack has the same thread as capri use commy ends on it as the pin taper is bigger and there fore you can reem the steering arm from the right side. google "bump steer gemotery" the bottom arm and the tie arm shud be as parrell as you can make them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy_rich Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 yeh thats a good idea, could also just parallell bore it at use an aftermarket rose joint, could shim it up for adjustment that way. capri's good in the way that the rack sits level with the inner ball joints. should all be quite level. hell it can all be made adjustable anyway. seriously cant be fucked making a new one, gonna quit my job anyway, wont have access to a machine shop anymore = gay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted January 2, 2008 Author Share Posted January 2, 2008 fucking awsome. Cheers for that Rich dude. Think im going to get some hex steering rod lengthners made from Key steel. Seems like the go.. My only problem is the god damn massive toe in I have now lol. Seems like you are going through all the same things I just have lol. Can you make bottom arms etc Jase? My cert guy would'nt/wont let me make anything unless it was to be tested in some special way which made it way to expensive. So ready to get back into this sucker 2moro morn and get it going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy_rich Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 I had a chat to my cert dude about making hubs, steering arms etc and he just said not without design cert. a mate of mine is designing a complete front crossmember and suspension from scratch for his 260c, all of which has to go through design cert, he's not too worried, loving it etc. talented guy though. Ive run into heaps of problems after this thread/ doing some proper research, ill definately be picking some brains about it over the next few days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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