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Lowering the C


mark105

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the 260's shocks are poked, thing flops around on the road to the point it kinda scares me. so had a read of this http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t276008.html seemed quite good and gathered majority of cost in lowering is in struts/shocks so i have to buy new shocks so why not lower it anyway.

i want to go down bout 1.5" in the back and 2" in the front. i think the leaves have sagged as the back is lower. the back seems prety easy as i think i can get the 1.5 i want for the back out of resetting the leaves (might as well reset the leaves instead of blocks and keep suspension stuff up of the ground). The front i can just cut the springs but i probably just wont be a tight arse and just buy decent springs. that stuff seems all good.

part where i get a bit stuck is when it comes to shocks/struts. probably the most expensive but the best ride is to go with lowering struts yeh? but then im not sure why coil overs are cheaper then lowering struts and i cant put coil overs in the back with leaves can i? but i think i can the front tho im not sure on this as i have a double wish bone setup in the front like the crowns and its possible i got my shit mixed up and cant even use struts and all i need is lowering shocks? or shortened shocks? gets a bit confusing as nothing says what to use front or back. i got the idea that lowering on standard shocks/struts is bad for them as it makes them wear out twice as fast.

other option ive heard talk bout round here is shortend shocks? am i better to go down this route?

dont mind spending the cash to get a good setup, just need some pointing in the right direction. dont want any dodgy shit either, want it wof'able.

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front, if its same style as crowns, will stay captive as fuck with chops up front. just get some kybs for front and you'll be set.

rear do same with shocks. if not possible to get any, just match them up to something of similar length and car of basically the same weight. should be able to match up some shorter, even.

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yea bro hams boes will sort you out bring it around for the chop diagnosis, kybs are the way to go dont crap out in 5 months like munroes. You want to go lower than 1.5 and 2 inches that things pretty much flying. After market springs (if they make any) will be to high and resetting them makes they gay and saggy. Chop chop until you want to pay for custom springs

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I haven't been able to read the link you posted because theres just too many words. But don't worry, I have included a detailed link myself. It outlines the correct lowering procedure for the front.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/ ... iagram.jpg

These things roll leaves in the back right? What I would do is what we did with haydens 220c to get it sitting very nicely. We just ripped the coils and leaves out and took them all down to springtown to get sorted out. I would prefer to cut the front and get the ends tapered and reset so they sit nicely, though its not much more to get some customs made. As cam said, the front control arm setup should hold it pretty captive and some shorter shocks will ensure that it does. I may have something suitable.

Rears can be reset about 3 inches then you can just use 1-2 inch lowering blocks so its adjustable and thats pretty much still legal kinda.

Anyway, take it round to spencers one night and we'll have a perve. Then you can just rip all the shit out somewhere where it can sit for a couple days to get all sorted.

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heres leaves in ass, looking pretty flat? i dunno havent got low stuff to compare to. 2 inch blocks is legal height with out cert eh? so much room to the bumps in the back.

img6735sh3.jpg

front is cunt to see with out wheels off but thats easy, spence gave diagnosis and

detailedloweringdiagram.jpg

brads awes illustration.

heres how it sits also, front is bout 1.5-2 inches higher then back.

img6736au8.jpg

anyways reset them leaves anyways or just block it?

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That was supposed to be a top secret diagram man :P

Doesn't really matter how flat the leaves are at the moment, just that there is sufficient clearance to bumps. I would get them reset a few inches and then go from there. Often at spring town you say 4 inches they do 2-3 inches so go generous with your measurements. Don't tell them 30mm or anything because you will get fuck all for your money and need to stick blocks in after all that pissing around anyway.

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