GARDRB

Plus the 2ZR comes as a 2ZR-FXE for maximum Roman Dave race motor opportunities

3 hours ago, rusty360 said:

Anyone got a 2zzge I could take a looky at and grab some sizes? 

AKL or north waikato area? 

Please and thankyou.

@drifter4ag should

First test cut of my drawing worked. Then I did one of the combination of 2T bellhousing and 1NZ block and somehow cocked my reference photo up for the bellhousing then got Covid. 
 

The consensus at drag day was that it’s a great idea. So now to work on the peer pressuring @Dudley phase

10 hours ago, 64valiant said:

Yeah, read that Billy and Charly no longer associate themselves with him, and that was from charly. He didn't say anything more on the matter.

Allegedly, from the comments on the Smugz post. Billy and Charlie fundraised a bunch of money for that roadtrip they did and Ash took it back to Aussie with him

The 2ZR uses the 1ZZ header flange so I might see if I can get some factory MR2 headers. The car needs a WOF first though

Asking for a friend, did you end up getting a C60 for this and if so does it mount using the same brackets and mounts as the c56? I have a C66 and 2zr sitting in the driveway and I'm having silly ideas about putting it in my ae101 wagon

16 hours ago, dabuzz said:

Haha, never got offered one 

100 would not stick one on my car anyway 

Take it easy

4 hours ago, gibbon said:

7 bucks worth of potato sure buys a lot of motivation 

We just want to see if we can bankrupt you faster than the banana Mazda does 

Could definitely work in our favour

12 hours ago, Dudley said:

Nah burgerfuel is too spenny for me, unless @GARDRB shout?

Let’s take the KP and the KE20 so @gibbon gets us both a side of fries and I’ll shout you a burger

On 05/12/2024 at 08:55, 440bbm said:

adds up to a fair amount of cash and fucking around for a bland turd.

You stay away with your sensibilities

Or this

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/nissan/tiida/listing/5037617267

Plus these 

Plus a trip to zebra for some hubs and brakes

Is there an easy recipe for a big block manual Nissan Note? Asking for a friend

13 hours ago, kws said:

From what my friend said, who was running the same rails in his Corolla, you're pretty well limited to anything around the age of Fishnets or SR2/3 from something like a Civic/ DC2 Integra Type R. Anything newer, like Evo 5 onwards, DC5R, Accord Euro R etc will be the 4 bolt pattern. He was going to change to floor mounted buckles and use modern rails, but sold the car before that.

Awesome, that kinda confirms what I thought

On 25/11/2024 at 19:32, Bling said:

Just whip it out and add a rubber washer, bang it back in.

What torque do you suggest?

On the seat mounting topic, I know it's pretty much "if you use aftermarket rails your children will die in a fire and you will crash into a school bus and everyone will die unless you mount your seatbelt to the floor using a doubler plate"

But if you were to manufacture a seat bracket in a way that didn't have any welds (folding and bolting and heavyweight material) can you mount the belt to the bracket?

Recaro boffins, lend me your ears. 

I have some factory ae101 Corolla Recaro rails from the factory fishnets, they are the 6 bolt pattern. I've looked at Accord Recaros and remember them being a 4 bolt pattern. Is there any rule for which seats are 6 bolt and which seats are 4 bolt? Ideally I want some modernish seats, but need the 6 bolt pattern. 

It looks like Evo 7 onward must have changed to the 4 bolt pattern? Are Civic/Integra seats 6 bolt? What about Suzuki Swift?

I drew this up, I'll laser cut it tonight and make sure it fits nice-ish

Then @Roman found this drawing he'd done which gives me an idea of the J160 pattern. I'm also gonna draw up the 4K pattern and see how close that is and @Dudley is bringing me a 2T bellhousing too. 

So the engine is back in the engine hole

I'd forgotten how friendly it all is in there and have been playing hide the sausage in the back of the engine bay trying to get all the hoses and things in. 
The good news is that the new booster gives heeeeeaps of room from the driver's side head. The bad news is that the fancy new Tilton clutch master is still very close to the plug lead cover. I'm looking at scootching the engine forward a couple of mm to gain a bit more clearance to the clutch master and potentially spacing the gearbox mount up off the cross-member to gain a few more bee's dicks. Did I mention this engine isn't designed to fit in this car? 
The heater tap is pretty ugly, but I like that it's OEM and most of the sins are hidden by the factory 1UZ cover which I think looks pretty cool in the Corolla engine bay (when it's clean).

Problem number two is that the rack and sump are still veeeeeeeeeery friendly. I've finessed the cast mount on the rack quite a bit, but it's pretty clear that the patch that banana sump guy put on the sump (after I ground it away too much) kinda needs to move, but I'm really struggling with the concept of taking the sump off again and getting someone else to weld it again, but deep down I know that this is the best solution.

Early on I got some 12mm spacers made up for the cross-member because it appeared to be what all the cool kids who were doing silly swaps that weren't meant to fit in this small engine bay were doing. I really wanted to take them out, but have put them back in temporarily because the help with clutch cylinder clearance and also let me run a packer under the engine mount to get me some height off the rack.

My ideal scenario is that I pull the sump out again and get it notched more and then sit the engine a little closer to the swaybar to give me more clearance to the clutch master. 

I'm also looking for one of these intake pipes, coz I like OEM and young, dumb me cut the resonator box off the bottom of it early on when I needed booster clearance.

I've made a start on mapping out where I have space to wing the sump pan so I can shorten the height of it and try and retain the capacity, as currently the pan hangs below the cross-member, and the whole underside of the car is covered in scars from where it's been plowed into the road. The rectangle is safe space in the engine bay, so I should easily be able to get the capacity back after taking the 15-25mm off the bottom of the pan that I need.

My brother is still campaigning for me to give up and put a 4 cylinder in it. But I really want to at least drive it. And the only engine that I've considered replacing it with is a K24 which ends up costing moonbeams in swap parts.

Step one

8 hours ago, kpr said:

 

@Roman  whats this bit ?

 

There is a guy on YouTube that changes 4AG cams through the oil filler and exhaust. This is where @RomanDayf changes his rods

Now someone on Instagram is trying to convince me that Niteparts does a bellhousing for the 1NZ...