GARDRB

On 15/03/2023 at 10:17, yoeddynz said:

Try this... 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/238640209650320/permalink/2312990232215297/?mibextid=Nif5oz

Thanks @yoeddynz that used up a good hour or so of my day

Just convert it to mild hybrid and use the alternatory/drive thing to start it rather than dicking around with starters. Then you can run KERS too

4wd MarkX is for when you add two turbos and want to do helis

2 hours ago, shrike said:

You can also look to go remote oil filter, probably worth adding an oil cooler as well. 

 

Is the oil filter built into the sump? 

 

Front/custom sump maybe the way to go. Could you 3d print a sump and then get sheet metal etc to weld one up?

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/325352398654

 

is this one different from yours? 

 

Actually how different is the bolt pattern on the sump if you wanted to run it backwards, (could always modify the pickup)

 

Modify or use and adapter to run the sump as a front instead of a rear?

 

 

I feel like they fucked up with that ebay listing, that sump looks identical to Dave's one.

I've been toying with making an adapter for my 1uz to run one of these SR20 pans https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/other/listing/3995918987

55 minutes ago, Roman said:

So will make some engine mounts, get it in the right place then start drawing up a sump. 

What filament are you gonna print the sump with? Carbon moooshed overtop of it?

14 hours ago, Roman said:

Yeah i guess it shouldnt be such a surprise that its huge, the whole reason this motor has a rod/stroke etc that is appealing is because small displacement in a stupidly big block.

At this point ive got nothing to lose by giving it a test fit in the engine bay, with a gearbox sorta bolted on.

But id be interested to get it on the scales. Back of the wagon sunk a whole lot when the forklift lowered it in...

For some reason the listed service weight of the 2500cc motor is 20kg heavier than 3500cc motor. But that might be because of some of the random extra bits that arent relevant to this.

If it looks like I need to chop up the engine bay to make it fit. Maybe I should test the concept in a Mark x first,to be sure its worth it.

If I can fit a 1uz in a corolla without modifying the firewall or ditching the swaybar, you can make this work. 

If the motor is the hilux bolt pattern rather than the 2gr bolt pattern you could always go to an R154/R151??

Otherwise let's see a 2gr echo

 

I'm assuming Dave has already read much of this, but this was where I got my info about the blocks.

https://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/65328-2GRFE-Conversion-any-inputs

Is the 4gr the same block and crank pattern as the 1gr? I know when I was looking at 2gr RWD conversions the 1GR truck motor was quite different 

12 hours ago, Roman said:

Dunno, does 1UZ and 1MZ have the same PCD?

I think I'm going to need to keep the geometry of the Altezza flywheel in order to make everything work with least potential hassle. 

Have been looking into the idea of using CNC machine to redrill the flywheel bolts on the Toda altezza flywheel I've got. 
3S PCD is 70mm, 4GR is 85mm. 

Which from the front looks like it would work. But on the back face of the light flywheel it's only got a 90mm mounting surface.
It could potentially "work" but not keen to buzzsaw my legs off at high rpm if I can help it.

1uz appears to be 80mm, so closer than 3s, but still not right. What's the PCD on the 1MZ? With my 3s flywheel on the 1uz we took the 1uz ring gear and machined the diameter of the flywheel down to match then fitted the 1uz ring gear for the engine side engagement of the starter.

If 1mz Flywheel is the way to go a 1uz flywheel may work?

Have you got a side shot showing where the throttles sit in relation to the new rad support?

That mondeo setup looks like it might work, maybe with the filter tipped onto more of an angle than you have it now??

1 hour ago, mjb.nz said:

Go Billy! Anyone have any 2LQQSE photos? I remember seeing it at Ash road back in the days. . Was impressive.

Just acquired these off Facebook, is this the right car?

41 minutes ago, kicker said:

^ that owned by a guy called Russell who has a lisp?

Yeth

But but but.... how did you mount the wing?

3 hours ago, Roman said:

However there's another one on 28th January. Hoping to get to that. 

Looks to be sold out??

11 hours ago, Roman said:

Will take some fuckery to make it fit securely but its pretty sweet.
Also, the tiny wheels/tyres are friggen sweet. haha
 

Looking forward to seeing the 3d printed carbon wrapped MSPaint CFD optimised solution you settle on

Keep the mounts in the middle, they won't stand out too much, and you could always work out a way to make a feature of them

A couple of Prius engines would fetch a premium 10 days out from OS Drags

18 minutes ago, h4nd said:

Can I humbly suggest you do another crowd funding before drags? If you have $$/unaccountable slushfunds in unmarked Colombian pesos which definitely don't smell of bananas/spare block on the bench at home, I reckon that'll translate to 0.177 @RUNAMUCKunits of reduced mechanical sympathy, probably good for about  , yeah, about 9.5ms per gear. I for one would throw beer money at that, just for the repeat ensuing shits and giggles, like aiming for actual real max RPM analysis.

There needs to be a romandave patreon

4 minutes ago, Roman said:

Yeah 

Maybe @cletus idea of a solid spacer with a shorter bump stop is a better plan than what I'm thinking.
This way can have a cone shape or whatever be more effective. 

I'm trying Shore A 60 simply because that's what I bought a while back to fill my engine mounts. Might be a little on the soft side for a bump stop. 
Also it might be a disaster and impossible to get out of the mould. haha.

The ones I've ordered are this sort of shape, 85mm long uncompressed. So probably compress down to smaller than I'd like. 

Dude those are sex toys, not bumpstops, you're on the wrong part of aliexpress again

1 hour ago, Roman said:

I'm also going to have a go at casting some bump stops from polyurethane with a 3d printed mould. 
As I figure it might just be fun to do, then makes it easy to try some variations later on if it works well.
So I'm just printing a very thin walled tube. So then I'll use lots of mould release wax on it, then after pouring hopefully I'll be able to just break it off. 

Doesn't making them cone shaped make them progressive? Maybe taper the mould out from the bottom??

On 17/11/2022 at 12:43, zep said:

Will it be okay to make this bracket out of aluminium? Caliper mount area is 8mm thick, steering knuckle area is 10mm thick. Holes for mounting caliper are threaded.

I'm not sure if you're worried about manufacturing cost, but it may be cheaper to make those from two laser cut pieces of plate that bolt together like Barry does with his MRP caliper brackets then getting them machined from a single piece. You'd want to make sure @cletus is ok with it of course.