andy

my memory is average at best but yeah I think there were two sensors, an air temp and an air flow. It did look like that though. Someone on here should know better than me. The good news for you is that the sensors as pictured mean you would not have to buy a complete throttle body... maybe.

sounds like the right sensor. Keep spraying everything with contact cleaner until its fixed

yes it did. I thought maybe the catalytic converter had given up and I was smelling some form of breakdown. The airflow sensor was a small probe hanging in the throttle body. Have you tried it since cleaning it? The estima also had what I would call a massive flat spot and no response when stabbing the throttle. Andy.

Disclaimer. I know next too FA about these engines but.... about 12 months ago my wifes Estima (01) had very simular issues minus the temp and backfire. It got progressivly worse. Toyota plugged it in and said it was the oxygen sensors and asked for a massive pile of money. Further probing and they admitted that their gear couldnt isolate the sensors. I took it to a sparky and had him check them and he said they were sweet. A bit of googling later and I decided to check the mass airflow sensor. It is a small probe and was caked in crap. I cleaned it with some air flow sensor cleaner (smelt like contact cleaner) and it ran perfect. It actually had more power than it had ever had in all the time weve had it. Andy.

what does two smiley faces changing colours mean??? Anyway, think of the drift as a nail and the hammer as... well a hammer. Give it a good solid tap on the head of the bolt. Dont use a hardened steel punch. Bronze, brass or mild steel.

I have a lead on another one Clint. If it pans out, its yours.

they drag race them in the states.

Give the head of the bolt a tap with a mild steel drift and a hammer.

FT bolts is what you have. Sounds like allan keys and a long pipe is what you need.

Ive got measurements somewhere. viewtopic.php?f=52&t=29382

Cool car. Quite valuable too if rebuilt well. What are your plans for repairing that door post? As said earlier, it would be nice to find a solid donor car for patch repairs. You could go and get some keyphos from an auto paint supply shop which works well applied to bare metal to stop surface rust. Needs to reapplied every 8-12 months. Would save painting then grinding off the primer everytime you make a repair. Andy.

You asked for opinions so I will give you mine. It is however your car so my oinion means sweet FA. -stick with the 1600 and do not put a 4age in it. -13 inch hotwires -drop it 3 - 4 inches. -dont paint it metallic (square cars seem to look better with straight colours) -round headlights

I dont even know if it was logged in the system as they didnt give me a check sheet. The more I think about it the dodgier it sounds. To my knowledge, if you go for a warrant and fail, you can have it re-checked somewhere else but have to pay again.

how do you do that? Have the David Vizard book also. Plenty of technical info including all required measurements.

This is from a well abused memory so someone please correct me if im wrong. The difference between the 1300 and 1600 block was the deck height. There were two different 1600 heads with the later being flat and having no combustion chamber. If you have an earlier head you can skim the head to reduce the size of the combustion chamber. Im not to sure on the size of the 1300 pistons but if retaining the 1600 pistons and having them skimed to reduce the chamber you would also need to skim the block and also include valve clearance in the top of the pistons. I would imagine there are flat top pistons available off the shelf. 15 - 20 years ago these were very common mods and engine shops were probably doing a couple a week so it would be worth having a talk to a local machine shop. Ive got a good book by Paul Davies from bitd called "Tuning Four Cylinder Fords". I dont know if it is still available but it is worth a read. Andy.

What are the benefits of this conversion? I dont remember anyone having issues with the standard diff up to around 140hp.

From memory the 3.54 was the 1600 Sport diff ratio and were always sort after. The mk1 sport I had was a 4.1 from factory. I think it used to do about 4000 at 100 km. The 3.8 worked really well with the set up I had. Is the Hilux diff an easy conversion?

stoked! extra funds for the coupe. Cheers for the advice.

I would imagine you would have more "tunability" or it would at least be a little more simple than playing with jets and venturi's. For my 2cents worth however and being that im kinda a purist for these type of things, I would go with the dcoe's. Webers not dellortos. They look better and sound better. Fuel injection doesnt chortle. And electronic fuel injection isnt oldschool lol.

Update. Estima now has warrant. Testing station Wairau park. No issues with the bushes. Toyota must have been short of work lol. Thanks.

Thanks, yeah I will get a second opinion. Toyota are talking about $300 for parts and $900 labor.

thanks for looking. Is it normal that they are extruded out as they are and if I physically load the control arm by hand will I feel alot of movement if they are shot? Cheers.

I'll bring my spade and give you a hand..... lol.

Im pretty sure its all about reducing the the combustion chamber size in the top of the pistion. If you are planning an engine build its probably worth looking into. When I built my 1600 at first I played around with this type of set up. Ported head, A2 cam grind and maybe the pistons (cant remember) and a 28/36 carb. Went alright but not nice to drive with big flat spot down low. A year later I went down a different path after reading an old "speedsport" Escort tuning book. Balanced and blue printed engine, Kelford 234 cam, better flowed head, petronix ignitor ignition, fitted a VH44 booster and a new pair of 40 DCOE webers. 3.8 in the diff. Drove awesome in traffic and made good power. 15.8 in the quarter. Make it breath and it will make power! Andy.

So my wife goes to get a new warrant on the family 2001 Estima so I can get it on Trademe to flick it and down size. Comes back with a fail due to "rear control arm bushes worn" and "rear diff support mount bush worn" and a quote for $1200. Now the thing is that this place has done the warrent on this wagon for the past 4-5 years except once. The last warrant she put through a testing station and it failed on these bushes as the guy wasnt sure what they should look like so required they were checked by an engineer or toyota workshop. So I took it to toyota where it normally goes and he re-did the warrant and advised that all bushes made of this material (elastomer) always look like this and showed me examples on other cars. He's now left and a different guy has failed the bushes. Can someone eyeball the attached pics and possibly advise what you think? Im cool if they need replacing but for what he's quoting I want to be sure. Cheers.