Rhyscar

Have you direction tested the fan? Also worth checking the calibration on the temp sensors. Ducting may help? its possible that at a certain speed you end up with a stagnant area in the front of the car with the engine bay behind? This is why HUUGE splitters are awesome.

Oh woohoo thanks heaps!

Nicks managed to paint the inside and underneath of the car. A huge amount of work has gone into seam welding/strengthening and tidying up the shell before this stage. Most of the panel work on the car has been completed also, doors and guards will be going to panelbeater in the next week or two to get tidied up and sprayed professionally to make sure its the best quality finish we can afford. Like a brand new car Twin batteries in the rear seat this time. Previously had single battery in boot but was a bit of a pain in the arse and would like to run 2 batteries if we end up with charging issues etc. Strut tops have been strengthed so we can do some mad jumps. So I've been between jobs for a few days so spent a bit of time in palmy helping Nick out assembling and cleaning stuff. Everything is being cleaned, repainted and repaired before being installed. Time consuming but will be worth it in the end. Got the car rolling. Subframes/suspension and diff have all been sanded back and repainted with CV black which should wear pretty well with the stones. They look amazing (picture doesn't do them justice) Mounted fuel pump (Nick was cringing while I drilled holes in the brand new paint). Spent heaps of time cleaning fuel and brake lines then covering with protective rubber/plastic tube to protect them from the stones. Foot plates re-installed. Also cleaned and repainted the heater box and installed the wiper assembly and steering column/pedal box. With this cage we were able to move the seats back a good couple of inches. The seating position was very tight before and we are both 6 foot so being able to move the seats back and lower will make a huge difference. Really looking forward to driving it like this! Thumbs-up seal of approval... <a href="http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/touge_ae101/media/Mobile%20Uploads/_20170108_094229.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g437/touge_ae101/Mobile%20Uploads/_20170108_094229.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo _20170108_094229.jpg"/></a>

Nice smooth laps there good work! If the inside edges look like they have less wear, those nittos are able to be flipped on the rim for the inner edge becomes the outer. They will probably have a more square lip which is wear your grip comes from essentially. might get another 2-3trackdays out of them as long as its not raining!

Thats pretty cool. Geez thats some money going into a ZZE corolla!

All I know is they Rev to about 9500rpm and make 220hp at the fly. A standard engine makes 190hp atw so with a decent motec running it, some race gas, low friction sequential box and 600kg you can imagine the performance they get from them is plausible from a standard cam...

I don't quite know tbh. I've heard varying stories. One source said they just use the standard cam locked in high cam. But I have heard that they were a cam and head developed by Grant Rivers. Anyone got any more solid info?

Yeah I agree VVT will be advantageous. I should stop having stupid ideas. how does cam selection for a dual vvti head differ from a normal engine? I presume its more about about having no compromises through the rev range than max peak power? Say aim for high cam to work good from 6-10k and make sure the low cam has response and torque from 3-7ish? There's hardly any info out there about the 2zz and cams other than the stage 1, 2, 3 monkey wrench racing/piper ones which means nothing to me as they don't list specs. It's still going to be in a racecar so if its crap below 3k I don't really care as long as the top and middle of the rev range keeps pulling. Rob you mentioned roller rockers - are they normally a requirement of extra lift or revs? or stiffer valve springs? These are the specs for the valvesprings I installed when we built the engine Seat pressure – 60 lbs @ 38.5mm Open pressure – 155 lbs @ 26.5mm Rate – 200 lb/in Coil bind height – 25mm Max net lift – 12.5mm two questions 1. are they adequate? 2. are they aggressive enough to warrant roller rockers? In other news I recieved some curvy trumpets from Glen in ozzyland. Luckily didn't come with any snakes and spiders. Looks like they will work. Going to need a bonnet bulge still but shouldn't be more than 60-70mm. Not going to use gay venty looking thing just run the airbox through the bonnet as it will be carbon anyway and probably look fine. Hopefully after christmas I'll order some carbon and start experimenting.

Hmm yeah starting to sound like too many guestimates/aligning all the stars to get the maximum potential result with ditching dual vvti. I guess the large amount of tunability is it's biggest advantage over an older engine such as 4age/B18 etc. I'm torn between keeping the engine simple and factory and going all out cam-wise.

Yeah even with the curved trumpet I'll still need to cut the Bonnet I'm 90% sure. Hmm interesting. I put uprated valve Springs in it when I rebuilt with the aim of revving it out to 9500rpm if the standard cam would do it. The reason I ask is currently I've got a g4 atom which essentially has cost me bugger all, but won't run the dual vvti. I need to spare around $2k to get the appropriate g4 to do so... So if I just put a big cam in and ditched the vvti it could work out considerably cheaper considering I've already done valves and valve Springs.. Would need to make sure I retain driveability between 4-9500rpm but I'm sure that's achievable. Just a thought and not sure if it's worth pursuing. You think it's achievable? Yeah shocks are where it's at for driving on the limit. So many times you'll see a bump unsettle a car just before it Spears off into the scenery which is what I'd like to avoid. Plus I like quite an aggressively setup car so having it settled when I chuck it into something a bit hairy will make it handle more consistently.

Generally in this type of setup you are only wanting the cooling of the air charge from the water/meth rather than a heap of gain from igniting the meth. For this reason I imagine it would be best to go post-blower as the temperature difference would be the highest and you'll be able to efficiently use the changing of energy released from the change of phase of the meth for cooling. As soon after the blower as possible I'd say to give it the most amount of time to cool before reaching the combustion chamber, although might be worth considering/researching what happens in the event of a backfire - would be not ideal to create a combustion event inside a hot supercharger! Everything is always better on meth? hmm not sure

Yeah that would be nice once its all running. Are you working on some cams for Mark's 2zz powered aw11 by any chance? Is it worth keeping the dual variable timing with a bigger cam or would you recommend ditching and running it oldschool on some cam gears? Glen has got a set of his trumpets on the way over the me which should lengthen it a bit (140mm instead of the 70mm ones I had before). Will rely on a good airbox shape to get any intake gains. I'm going on a very good theory which Murray Coote from MCA mentioned in a video from time attack "its about being not wrong rather than 100% right" so won't be perfect, but won't be anything funky going on either. Outboard injectors will make up for a bit as well

Hah I had it sitting there for like the last year and didn't even think of using it! I've got another sheet of the same stuff lying behind it currently. Can be anyone's who wants to come get it for a box of beers.

Finally got my steering column mounted after waiting for a chance to collect the correct fasteners with a busy few weeks at work. Pretty happy with the result it gives me plenty of adjustment still and is substantially lighter than the factory mechanism. Got a steering boss kit on the way so I can mock up steering wheel position and make sure I'm happy with it before I fully weld. Also got a new TIG torch on the way so if that helps my crappy TIG out I might weld the dash bar into the cage.. It adjusts on the matrix of tapped holes and rotates around the centre of the UJ in 1-2deg increments as such. Plan is to get all this Gold zinc passivated like my subframes so should look pretty swish So dad just ordered a set of Enkei RPF1's for the AE82 so I thought I better test fit them on the AE101. Think I need to buy myself a set cause they are stupidly reasonably priced through Barry Manon/MRP and fit my car perfectly! 15x8 +28 for those that are interested. Because slammage... Love these wheels Apart from some photo's I've been planning and organising the build properly for a change. I find myself going out to the shed, staring at the car and not knowing where to start so I decided to write myself a list on this massive whiteboard-like panel I had lying there. It's helping me plan and know what bits I can get underway and what parts I need to order at each stage. This project is 100x more of an undertaking than I ever thought it would be and my progress thus far has been pretty pitiful IMO so time to get organised and get it finished! This list only scratches the surface in terms of what needs doing but should get the car to a good point and give me something to work towards Also in a burst of shed-organisation motivation I finally wired up the 4x 3-tube fluorescent lights I had lying around. First time trying electrical thingys and I haven't burnt the place down yet. Garage is well lit now for night time motivation

Back on its wheels. Height is perfect hopefully not too much guard work to eliminate any rubbing..

Slowly getting these shocks installed. Been getting tophats laser cut, new wheel bearings in front and waiting for 2 of my wheels to come back from being used to test-fit on dads ae82. Top hats sorted. Thinking I may cut the strut tops with a slightly larger opening then tack in a lip to add strength removed when I cut it larger. Rear is a bigger problem than the front but have a solution for now (not entirely pretty though) Got 1x strut installed. Pretty happy with the lengths and heights etc. Guna be so slam. This is full droop.... So here are a few details about the shocks that make them the tits and worth all the extra money over what I would call a 'street/track coilover' which are fairly light duty (high spring rates, no huge impacts). Some people perhaps have never seen this style of shock before or pulled one apart. Big strong clevis made for doing jumps and hitting big rocks (all their gravel rally shocks are built exactly the same). Also notice the spring perch not having the stupid double locking setup most coilovers have - it has a small grub screw which locks it once adjusted. You'll notice the camber washers above. They have been supplied with 3 combinations of camber washers to adjust camber at the hub bolts. This is often done rather than at the top hat to help with guard/strut clearance along with having an adjustment which can't be moved (most rally cars don't have slotted top hats as they can move it you hit something big enough. Shock is held in the strut by one big bolt at the bottom (also notice the adjuster inside the shock shaft) Pull this out and you can slide the shock out of the strut. Essentially the shock shaft you see on the outside is the body of the shock and the shaft is inside the strut body. The main advantage of this is that the body is much stronger when taking impacts - especially on macpherson strut setups where it is essentially transferring force through an 'L' between the hub and the spring/strut top. The next main advantage is the strut body itself has two brass bushes which guide the shock body and essentially eliminate any load on the shock shaft. These are fully serviceable/removable/regreasible and are a pretty robust solution as its easy to replace the dirt wiper seal or bushes. Looks like they have only been supplied with rebound adjustment which was a bit different to what I understood. Just means I need to spend another $3k for the external canisters at some point to get the full potential from them. Keen to get the car going like this though, will add external canisters when I eventually get around to doing an event like Targa etc. Good things take time! Hoping to have it back on its wheels this week fingers crossed!

Cage done. Super happy with the cage Nick did a great job on it and is much higher quality than most cages you see out there. Seats almost mounted also. Almost sit in the back seat its wicked. 25m of rollcage tube later.. Yup she's pretty tight against the pillars and roof. Perfect fit!

I like this. Coming along nicely Matt good work.

here are a couple of vids from before the crash at Tauranga. Engine was going mint (apart from start of SS2 when it spat the alternator belt we think), new tyres felt good and we had good pace. SS1 Part of SS2

So we decided to repair this thing properly which included going back to bare metal. Got the roof sorted first then went onto fixing all the rust and previous sins an old car like this has. Sandblasting took ages but the result is good. Nick mounted it up on a spit which makes working on it a breeze and set about seam welding the whole chassis. Found plenty of rust to fix in places such as here And here And here.... and here.... I took a week off work to go down to palmy and help Nick out and managed to do some rust repair relatively successfully. Engine rapped in condom so it can't impregnate any palmy yolkals Chucked a diff in it to get it rolling and down to Nick's work to start the rollcage. Also gave it a base layer of black primer (only primer on shelf) to stop it rusting to buggery while moving to and from workshop. I did this as a base plate for boxes. Boxes are yet to be confirmed but essentially raise the bottom of the cage up to the sill height so you can make it nice and tight fitting while being able to get 360deg weld around the base of the bars along with allowing you to drop the boxes out to lower the front part of the cage inside the car to weld up and over the front stays/crossbars Fitting up main hoop (yup she's toight!) front stays are of the same fitment Oh yeah this is a supertourer that Nick has been working on. Being repaired and fitted with V8 Supercar hubs and running gear and a healthy dose more power than a supertourer would normally have.. pretty cool stuff so yeah the corolla is in good company. And here are some actions shots because they look cool. Super stoked about the top crosses going in. Building a cage like this will save so the car (and us!) in a massive crash. Good to have a chance to do things properly

Got a friend who is an aircon tech. They charge for degassing but just vent it to atmosphere. Could be money wasted is my opinion

try these guys; https://www.facebook.com/aimalignmentsltd/

Hmm. I think you need to find a friendly tyre person. Start with guys who are involved in motorsport. I've been getting 23545/18 123s tyres for my falcon daily for $180/tyre recently. I get looked after a bit but didn't think by much. Yeah I agree at that price the Archilles aren't really a deal at all!

Also I know where there is another bumper like I had on the car previously as an alternative to a lip. Probably round $600+postage though

Might be worth considering archilles 123s for semi slicks. Really are only a good road tyre but prob fine for what you need. Generally around $180/tyre. You just need something to do heaps of track kms on rather than something to be super competitive. Once you've gone through another set of tyres worth of events you will see more gain in going to a good semi slick. Another alternative is the Dunlop dz2. It seems to be a good road tyre and is the control tyre for 2k cup so there's heaps around.