Rhyscar

Man that sounds good!! Will be weirdly out of place in the Carina but that will add to the fun. 

Also a side note on changing belt path... I've seen what you've done cause vibration issues in high-revving Honda F-series engines. Ended up snapping main M12 alternator bolt/killing alternators. Turned out there was a reasonant frequency along the long straight run of the belt that came out at certain RPMs. I'm sure theres a way to calculate/avoid this if desired. But just a heads up since you'll be revving to the moon. 

From what I've read/seen Hybrid mainly helps around town. 50km/h driving is what ruins my fuel economy (goes to like 12-14l/100km if I do a whole tank around town) 

That's pretty impressive fuel economy from the ISF @Vintage Grumble. I can maybe get it down that low if I try, but I find its much more fun not to. I average 10l/100km on Waikato backroads (110km Ham to Te Aroha few times a week). Multiple small towns, roadsworks, slow traffic etc. It is more like 8-9 on AKL motorway trips. 

Try to find;

NZ new (even if higher kms)

Radar cruise control option

Good tyres (Michelin PS4/5 etc)

LSD (electronic traction control works good but won't let it hang out sideways)

Front rear lower control arm bushes get sloppy and make them track all over road/make steering light and yuck. Cheap enough to replace though (few hundred bucks)

13 hours ago, Nominal said:

Oh hey, are these any good? How come every lexus is +h these days?

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/lexus/is-f/listing/4133827066

Great engine, pretty good cars. Based on IS 250/350 chassis. Back seat and driving position a little more compact than you'd like, but boot space is good. Can't buy a towbar for them either. Can be hard to find aftermarket wheels that clear brakes/offset if you were thinking of that. 

Would you consider a V6 instead of a V8? I went for a 2012+ GS350 (especially F-sport) as it has a bigger interior, and does all the same sporty things (0-100 in 5.5sec, adaptive shocks, big brakes etc). 9L/100km on open road for non-hybrids. Hybrids get around 7ish? About 10-15k cheaper than ISF. 

I do 30,000kms/year of work/travel/commuting and love it. Can fit the family on a trip away, tow a trailer and its stupid fast when you find a wiggly backroad. Win win. 

I feel like drag racing is the wrong motorsport type for a 1NZ... 

24 minutes ago, shrike said:

2zz-ge into an echo 122kw and 162nm atw, @Romanwhat was your final dyno number?

https://www.facebook.com/100075883510301/posts/288421180363997/?mibextid=Nif5oz

That's quite average power output from a 2zz. By the looks of the dyno curve it must be using factory headers... 140kw is typically what you get with a good tune. 

But 1NZ is a lot more impressive than a 2zz cause it has 0.5L less capacity!

1 hour ago, Truenotch said:

I'm pretty sure @Rhyscar added choke plates into his collectors for the 2ZZ. It's all in that 4 stroke tuning book, but dunno how to make it work for a 3cyl setup. 

Yup thats right. Based on this. KPR might have some better info his collectors seem to follow a similar design. 

I'll pull the book out and take a look at the 6cyl stuff. Has been a while. 

Key bit to remember is that air has momentum so small differences in cross sectional area won't matter so much 

Nothing crazy but my 2012 Lexus GS350 F sport just ticked over a decent milestone.

Has been clocking up the KMs quick due to being such a dam nice car to drive. 12,000kms in 3months. Just doing 2gr things and being reliable as hell. Happy as. 

Great work getting primaries to fit better. One things I found is not all bends are created equal. Adrenalin R bring in their bends which have a smaller CLR than the autobend/S&T ones so worth checking out the different options. But yeah cutting and shutting them like you have gets it done, I'm always surprised at how far a small amount gets you on the end of a 180deg bend. 

Collectors - don't bother with bandsaw its very hard to clamp/hold it on the angle required for the cut. Just Sketch out what you want, holesaw the big end/drill roughly where small end is (with some room for error) and free-hand the rest with a grinder. Yup it sucks but at least all your fingers will be intact. 

As for secondary length - have you seen this book? Can borrow my copy if you want. It talks about how secondary lengths don't matter so much, as overall length stays the same in 4-1 vs 4-2-1 applications. Reckons 4-2-1 is normally only used as a function of packaging, not performance. The book also has a section on V6 header and exhaust design which I skipped over as it was talking about a triumph V6.... and talks about exhaust sizing/lots of things you're looking at. 

2 hours ago, BlownCorona said:

....

The iconic kiwi roadtrip sight. known for doing 95kmh in a 100 zone, 120kmh in a passing lane (left hand lane only) and 7kmh on any kind of road thats not straight and flat.

 

 I've been stuck behind so many of these its just not funny. I reckon Toyota Wishes/ISIS have taken over as the slowest-driven cars on the road now though. It's the perfect choice for everyone who care nothing for car transport. 

@87creepin Me too, but I'm expecting to need to add another resonator as 3" could be quite raspy/loud. I'm expecting a similar exhaust note to B18cr Honda's.

As long as it doesn't sound like a 3sge I'll be happy. 

On 03/07/2023 at 12:05, BlownCorona said:

Do you have any evidence of this? We've bought well over 100 of them. Had them all on the hoist to check they are clean and photograph. None have ever had any running issues what so ever. 

I find this extremely unlikely to be true. 

Personally known 2 separate parties who've owned and had all of these issues within short time of owning. They were failing WOF's left right and centre on rust. Maybe sorted in later gen?

On 02/07/2023 at 07:42, mjrstar said:

This is the corner I have painted myself in to. Everything is gutless compared to current fleet - sq5, turbo airtrek and modified turbocoon..

I have heard something happens with the Mazdas that causes bore wash and low compression?

Yeah Mazda cx5 diesels have most of the engine issues. Petrols are better but also not that good either (probably on par with other small SUV engines though). A friends 60,000km engine have headgasket issues and basically grenade itself. Mechanic friends back this up having seen multiple failures. 

@mjrstar my wife rolls a 2013 Rav4. Zero reliability issues but runs a CVT (isn't terrible but no good for towing). Newer ones are nicer but generally Rav's ride quality can be a bit harsh. Highly recommend going for GLX/limited models if considering as these are much nicer appointed. 

Another great option is Lexus RX350/450h or NX200t. They are a massive step up from Toyota and very reasonably priced for the quality in the second hand car market 

Tiida's had chronic issues with rust in front cross members/general chassis, stretched/broken timing chain. Most got sold for cheap very soon after being bought hence why they are cheapest in the market now. Would not recommend.

Fit/Vitz all the way. 

17 minutes ago, Stu said:

Totally agree - finding a good balance between doing something to a standard but in a timely manner can be somewhat tricky.  

Your doing a amazing job - keep it up!

Thanks Stu! Nice to have lots of support from everyone who has been in similar situations. 

35 minutes ago, Truenotch said:

It's looking great with an engine in the hole. Oil cooler ducts seem to be taking shape too!

Thanks. Nice to not have it sitting on the floor and makes it look a little more finished. Yeah oil coolers and exit duct out bonnet require quite a bit more work to get right but slowly getting there. I'm trying not to prioritise things that aren't super important though - trying to have it running by end of year. 

I also got the swaybars in and the front one fouls my expansion chamber  so that has come out now. Unsure if I'll bother reworking it until after the car is running.

Key next steps;

- Get battery, fuse box/ecu mount and passenger footwell fabbed, mount switch panel & lights in dash

- Radiator plumbing, swirl pot/cap and overflow

- Install a washer bottle & piping

- Baffle sump

- Oil cooler ducting and hoses

- HEADERS 

Sometimes I get frustrated with my ethos for this car. Doing everything nicely takes such a long time but I can't be happy with it any other way. Next time/car I hope I find a middle ground that isn't so involved! //Rant over. 

Engine back in the hole. Had to fight the polly bushes to fit properly but got there in the end. Added a HD exedy clutch and gave flywheel a skim when it all went back together.

Decided not to run the ITB's to start with as I don't want to cut the bonnet and I need to cut/shut the CNC manifold to make it fit under bonnet. All achievable, but a big mission so not wanting to slow myself down. 

Got a few electrical parts to start fabbing mounts/buttons, fan shroud etc. I'm excited to be getting things moving. 

Kinda dig the front off look. Got a massive pile of parts to go to powdercoaters so once thats done then lights etc will go on for good. 

Kinda makes you wonder if theres value in considering 2x different intake lengths?

Ah yes I understand you now. I actually stayed away from AN and braided hoses for cost and pain in arse factor. Hence the stainless hardlines and rubber hoses to join. 

 

Ah interesting. What’s the advantage of AN style hose barbs? To be honest I struggled to find anything that matched the thread on the fuel pump and fuel filter so just got what I could.
 

I still do need to add a couple of unicoils on the bends so it doesn’t go soft and crush over time. I used super high quality fuel hose which was a lot more flexible but still a little nervous about it. 
https://www.repco.com.au/parts-service/cooling/hoses-radiator-heater/unicoil-hose-spring-19mm-uc34091/p/A9635372

Yeah the stainless hose barns are super hard to get off. Everything is either 1/2” or 1/4” which makes it super easy. 

Thanks man, appreciate the support and info. It’s good to share ideas and get input. Sometimes I worry I overthink these solutions 

Oh man 100% agree with these things it’s gut feel with what’s going to be suitable. Can’t be second guessing shit when flying down a back road at 200kmh! 
 

yeah a friend worked on St John merc ambos for years and reckon those clips are the go and super reliable. 

I’m expecting to need to pull fuel filter and pump out on side of road without special tools. 
 

apparently merc use a removable clamp like this on their fuel systems that are great. Trying to track them down and get pricing 

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-fuel-hose-clamp-genuine-mercedes-mer-0049972090

10 hours ago, Roman said:

You've been smashing out some amazing work on this.

So good! 
 

Thanks Dave. I'm ready for this project to be done sometime soon so I can commit money & effort to building all the other ideas in my head and doing some rallying. 

Prob still another year until it's ready to hit the track. No progress on wiring front