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Rhyscar

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Everything posted by Rhyscar

  1. Rhyscar
    Man that sounds good!! Will be weirdly out of place in the Carina but that will add to the fun. Also a side note on changing belt path... I've seen what you've done cause vibration issues in high-revving Honda F-series engines. Ended up snapping main M12 alternator bolt/killing alternators. Turned out there was a reasonant frequency along the long straight run of the belt that came out at certain RPMs. I'm sure theres a way to calculate/avoid this if desired. But just a heads up since you'll be revving to the moon.
  2. Rhyscar
    I feel like drag racing is the wrong motorsport type for a 1NZ...
  3. Rhyscar
    That's quite average power output from a 2zz. By the looks of the dyno curve it must be using factory headers... 140kw is typically what you get with a good tune. But 1NZ is a lot more impressive than a 2zz cause it has 0.5L less capacity!
  4. Rhyscar
    Made some stuff, mounted some stuff. Lots of careful thought and consideration went into all these things. Let's hope it pays off! ECU/fuse box mounted using rubber feet for vibrations. Should keep all this tidy and hidden behind the passenger footplate (work in progress). Added a reclined battery mount also for packing and short cables. If I was to do it again I'd swap which side battery is on. I'd originally planned to slot battery in under the ECU but it got too complicated as fuel lines run under the floor there. Blew the cobwebs off the tig. Still pretty rusty. Was trying a new Furrick cup and don't think I got enough stick out/too much gas flow for welding in the corners. Something to work on at least. Steering wheel buttons, lights and isolator switch in place. Trying to keep dash simple with minimal things to look at. Plan to run a Monit display in centre for speedo (driven from rear hub) which should meet WOF requirements. Also handy for rallying. Got a massive pile of parts ready to go to the powdercoaters so should be some tidy looking progress coming soon.
  5. Rhyscar
  6. Rhyscar
    Yup thats right. Based on this. KPR might have some better info his collectors seem to follow a similar design. I'll pull the book out and take a look at the 6cyl stuff. Has been a while. Key bit to remember is that air has momentum so small differences in cross sectional area won't matter so much
  7. Rhyscar
    Great work getting primaries to fit better. One things I found is not all bends are created equal. Adrenalin R bring in their bends which have a smaller CLR than the autobend/S&T ones so worth checking out the different options. But yeah cutting and shutting them like you have gets it done, I'm always surprised at how far a small amount gets you on the end of a 180deg bend. Collectors - don't bother with bandsaw its very hard to clamp/hold it on the angle required for the cut. Just Sketch out what you want, holesaw the big end/drill roughly where small end is (with some room for error) and free-hand the rest with a grinder. Yup it sucks but at least all your fingers will be intact. As for secondary length - have you seen this book? Can borrow my copy if you want. It talks about how secondary lengths don't matter so much, as overall length stays the same in 4-1 vs 4-2-1 applications. Reckons 4-2-1 is normally only used as a function of packaging, not performance. The book also has a section on V6 header and exhaust design which I skipped over as it was talking about a triumph V6.... and talks about exhaust sizing/lots of things you're looking at.
  8. Rhyscar
    @87creepin Me too, but I'm expecting to need to add another resonator as 3" could be quite raspy/loud. I'm expecting a similar exhaust note to B18cr Honda's. As long as it doesn't sound like a 3sge I'll be happy.
  9. Rhyscar
    Thanks Stu! Nice to have lots of support from everyone who has been in similar situations.
  10. Rhyscar
    Thanks. Nice to not have it sitting on the floor and makes it look a little more finished. Yeah oil coolers and exit duct out bonnet require quite a bit more work to get right but slowly getting there. I'm trying not to prioritise things that aren't super important though - trying to have it running by end of year. I also got the swaybars in and the front one fouls my expansion chamber so that has come out now. Unsure if I'll bother reworking it until after the car is running. Key next steps; - Get battery, fuse box/ecu mount and passenger footwell fabbed, mount switch panel & lights in dash - Radiator plumbing, swirl pot/cap and overflow - Install a washer bottle & piping - Baffle sump - Oil cooler ducting and hoses - HEADERS Sometimes I get frustrated with my ethos for this car. Doing everything nicely takes such a long time but I can't be happy with it any other way. Next time/car I hope I find a middle ground that isn't so involved! //Rant over.
  11. Rhyscar
  12. Rhyscar
    Engine back in the hole. Had to fight the polly bushes to fit properly but got there in the end. Added a HD exedy clutch and gave flywheel a skim when it all went back together. Decided not to run the ITB's to start with as I don't want to cut the bonnet and I need to cut/shut the CNC manifold to make it fit under bonnet. All achievable, but a big mission so not wanting to slow myself down. Got a few electrical parts to start fabbing mounts/buttons, fan shroud etc. I'm excited to be getting things moving. Kinda dig the front off look. Got a massive pile of parts to go to powdercoaters so once thats done then lights etc will go on for good.
  13. Rhyscar
    Kinda makes you wonder if theres value in considering 2x different intake lengths?
  14. Rhyscar
    Ah yes I understand you now. I actually stayed away from AN and braided hoses for cost and pain in arse factor. Hence the stainless hardlines and rubber hoses to join.
  15. Rhyscar
    Ah interesting. What’s the advantage of AN style hose barbs? To be honest I struggled to find anything that matched the thread on the fuel pump and fuel filter so just got what I could. I still do need to add a couple of unicoils on the bends so it doesn’t go soft and crush over time. I used super high quality fuel hose which was a lot more flexible but still a little nervous about it. https://www.repco.com.au/parts-service/cooling/hoses-radiator-heater/unicoil-hose-spring-19mm-uc34091/p/A9635372 Yeah the stainless hose barns are super hard to get off. Everything is either 1/2” or 1/4” which makes it super easy. Thanks man, appreciate the support and info. It’s good to share ideas and get input. Sometimes I worry I overthink these solutions
  16. Rhyscar
    Oh man 100% agree with these things it’s gut feel with what’s going to be suitable. Can’t be second guessing shit when flying down a back road at 200kmh! yeah a friend worked on St John merc ambos for years and reckon those clips are the go and super reliable.
  17. Rhyscar
    I’m expecting to need to pull fuel filter and pump out on side of road without special tools. apparently merc use a removable clamp like this on their fuel systems that are great. Trying to track them down and get pricing https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-fuel-hose-clamp-genuine-mercedes-mer-0049972090
  18. Rhyscar
    Thanks Dave. I'm ready for this project to be done sometime soon so I can commit money & effort to building all the other ideas in my head and doing some rallying. Prob still another year until it's ready to hit the track. No progress on wiring front
  19. Rhyscar
  20. Rhyscar
    im done with getting under the car for a while now thank goodness. Plumbing ticked off the list.
  21. Rhyscar
    Fuel pump mounting is now done. Put a lot of effort in to make this easy to access, at the lowest point of the tank and eliminate weak points in the sheetmetal. Time will tell if I've done a good job I guess. Still waiting for a few hose tails to turn up to finish the pipework. Took a while to find the right fittings to do this 180deg turn but these push lock 150deg -8an ones did the trick nicely. Still trying to decide on the best hose clip/clamps to use in the fuel system. I HATE tridon garden hose clips.... Fuel pump mounted. Used captive/welded bolts and nuts so it won't vibrate loose. Also put foam under all the contact surfaces. Fingers crossed it won't make a racket/racquet? Used a 255lph walboro/TI automotive pump. Was reasonable and will be plenty for a 200hp 2zz. Fuel filter is FG falcon because it fitted mint in the dual pump bracket from Triple X in taranaki, and because you can easily and cheaply source one at any supercheap/repco around the country. Fuel filters are consumables in racecars. Last gauge arrived from the US of A. Starting to look almost finished in this area apart from some wiring. Replaced all the steering components with Toyota genuine parts cause reliability and race prep etc.
  22. Rhyscar
    Top job on the fitment. I can appreciate a cut-check-cut-check-cut-check-ahfuck-cut process as much as the next man. CF hood and this whole car looks great! 100% would own (even if it's a mitsi).
  23. Rhyscar
    You can buy the dies to do this at home. Might be cheaper than labour and you get to learn something cool. Chances of bonnet being straight afterwards might be low though. Unsure how much of a fine art it is to stop it deforming as you go. https://www.machineryhouse.co.nz/p1173
  24. Rhyscar
    Just plugs. Look at the previous owner(s) and ask yourself if they'd willingly spend $100 to improve the efficiency and drivability of their car. If the answers no; then the plugs haven't been done for at least 200,000kms.
  25. Rhyscar
    Yeah it’s not that involved when you have a msnz authority card. But general requirement is to have redundancy; which is achieved by the dual braking circuits in the pedal box. From my reading it sounds like you could do it without an authority card by using a split circuit master cylinder. But I’m guessing it’s a fine line that would need to be discussed with certifier.
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