Rhyscar

Hey Markku correct me if I'm wrong (only because your old man has millions of this stuff lying around) but silvertop trumpets is same bolt pattern as dellorto carbs for trumpets eh? may make it slightly easier to find a suitable trumpet at short notice..

So I've also decided to go balls to the wall with the braking system. I wasn't really happy with the proportioning/reliance on vacuum for boosted brakes which couldn't keep up with my left foot/aggressive braking at the track. The only way to go was to do a pedal box so I've got one on the way from stateside along with some dynalite 2 pot calipers for the rear. Hopefully this should sort the braking (exactly the same as we run in the ae82 which brakes AMAZINGLY) This all means getting rid of the handbrake as well which opens a whole new can of worms with keeping it road legal.. Got myself a new computer a couple weeks ago with the intention of setting myself up for cash CAD drawings and being able to design more stuff for my car at home where its easy to pop out to the garage and measure stuff up. Got a mate of Nick's to build me a machine (runs a IT company). pretty happy with it definately well spec'd although wondering about throwing another 8GB ram at it for some of the larger CAD stuff I've been playing around with (also not sure how stable my version of Solidworks 2014 is..) So while I've been waiting for parts to arrive/more money to arrive I've been thinking about finalising a few of the details inside the car.. Think I'm pretty sure what I'm doing with the dash (carbon ae111 skin and ali supports etc), so next thing on the list was the hydraulic handbrake. After having a quick look at aftermarket stuff I was very unimpressed. There was nothing really nice available and due to my unique seating position and gearstick arrangement they wouldn't have worked anyway. So I set about designing one to suit.. Ended up mocking up the ae101 tunnel so I could see how it will all fit (both the handbrake and gear raiser bolt up to standard bolt holes) The top of the handle will sit just above the base of the shifter. I'm confident this will work with my seating position and the bio-mechanics of my arm.. Another bonus is the entire assembly (excluding cylinder) only weighs 899grams.. I wanted to intergrate the proportioning valve into the assembly so I didn't need extra brackets/complication. Due to needing to be road legal I needed a lockout system for applying the handbrake in parking lots!.. most use a simple latch-over rachet type system which I didn't really like due to the possibility of it accidentally coming on while going over a rise/bump etc. So I designed this little locking mechanism. has a small spring built into it as well so it will spring down (unlocked), to lock you simply pull up the lever until it clicks into place.. To release you simply take the weight of the handbrake and it will release itself! Originally I was intending on having a shorter handle but how it worked with the gear raiser making it longer was better. I was a little worried about the handle bending under extreme force. So i ran a simulation of my hand pulling 500N on the top and a 5000N resistant force from the cylinder (about 1:10 pedal ratio). Passed with flying colours it is suprisingly strong! May have to run quite a big cylinder to reduce the travel - that might be a bit of trial and error when I get the pedals and rear calipers set up.. I designed everything for ease of manufacture so in the next couple of days I'll get all the profiles ready for water cutting and get a guy and work to weld the few bits of ali together. There is a small amount of machining needed but shouldn't be too bad. I'm aiming for it to cost under $200 all up. Although I will prob go to the effort of getting most bits anodized or powdercoated before putting them together so everything looks flash.. Still plenty more stuff to buy on the horizon.. most of the big items are; Link G4 extreme Racepak dash (or Link if they bring it out in time!) Custom radiator C60 Gearbox!!! Injectors Carboning the dash, bonnet and possibly the door cards Shorten shocks (for now still indecided on replacing them with custom (read: $3500) Bilstein items Another set of Racetech seats and belts - my original set have made their way into the KE20 rally car.. Urethaned engine mounts That should take up my racecar budget for the next 4-5months at least.. then it will be time to tune it and road test the shit out of it before taking it around the country visiting racetracks/backroads.

Engine is all finished. Ended up pretty much replacing everything in the head except the intake valves as it was in pretty average shape. On top of that I ordered a whole bunch of goodies from Monkey wrench racing including; Kaaz plate diff, ARP rod bolts, Cosworth super-thin head gasket, Uprated valve springs Extended the steering wheel for my intended seating position.. now I need to remount every single switch in the car as it can't be reached from where I'll be sitting! and this has to remain road legal so may be a challenge.. New steering wheel waiting patiently as well.. Finally decided on the scope of inside of the car.. was unsure whether to leave it or strip it and do it properly. I've opted for the later. removed all the heater etc and the extra sound deadening and all wiring out of the inside of the car. Will make a whole new loom (so much had to be re-wired anyway), one for the body and one for the engine with two separate circuits to keep it simple. So as this is still going to be a road legal car, I needed some form of demistability.. a friend put me onto a website called T7 designs in england who make these lightweight heater cores. It is the same unit all the WRC cars run weighs 1.1kg and puts out 3.3kw of heat (apparently about the same as most normal cars). Was really reasonably priced and a good options for this type of application. So engine-wise I've been planning the intake manifold which I'm still trying to find someone to CNC (haven't heard back from my contacts ) The easiest (and best) way to do an intake manifold was to make the blacktop throttle bodies round instead of the odd shape they are from factory.. machined them out and pressed in nice inserts with a 2mm (dia) taper. really nice finish I think this will work a treat. manifold design to bolt blacktop ITB to 2zz head; Got a bit more research to do on which injectors to use for the outboard injectors. I will def run a bosch motorsport injector but which spray pattern and angle I'm waiting to hear back from WRC developments who will be tuning the car as he has had a lot of experience tuning mid-90's BTCC cars. I'm in the process of drawing the throttles from which I'll be able to design the outboard injector cradles and start looking at the airbox design. I'm interested in finding more information about venturi effect in airboxes where tuned systems will run a small slot to accelerate the air through at a certain speed. This along with some positive pressure formed by having the trumpets just behind the grill should ensure I reach my target of 140-150atw kw with the right amount of outboard injection..

The bottom end was put together with copious amounts of bourbon and a fantastically dimensioned TE37 chillirim! the 2zz is a really well designed bottom end with strong crank girdle and all nicely packaged. the head is even better designed with direct and short intake and exhaust ports.. looking forward to hearing this thing scream I think the 2zz design has plenty of potential in the future as more engines are parts become available! Test fitted the flywheel and turns out I can't use the 4age flywheel bolts (5mm longer) and seeing this is a weak point of the engines I'll be ordering some ARP bolts to suit.

sorry I didn't see this VG! got a bit of an update here.. Still no real good progress but It's getting there.. see below

He buys them in from somewhere in nz (came in overnight) then machined to suit and pressed into wheels

Warren dickson at rim ryte did a couple sets on the race car. pretty reasonably priced as well.

this is how the old carby nzv8s ran their air intakes. was very effective.

I think you will run into issues with not being able to fit the 70mm trumpets inside a ST airbox of any sort.. hence the whole reason why I went and build this (same trumpets as you bought); As mentioned by beachlander cardboard is your friend (and I do CAD for a living!) that's how I did it.. TBH an airbox isn't 100% neccesary for a simple setup. I ran my blacktop with open trumpets for a couple of years.. ran a short 40mm trumpet (originally wanted to fit inside standard airbox) have got a dyno plot showing naff all difference between standard trumpets/40mm trumpets with 1kw shifted from mid range to up top.. I don't like the idea of running a bonnet scoop due to the aerodynamic disadvantage. theres no point having 2-3kw more power from fresh air but having more aerodynamic resistance! with an NA car making it as slip stream as possible is the best way to go.. you will get similar gains from a well set up cold air intake with 4" pipe right up to the airbox etc and an oversized filter. I built one years ago that used a panel filter from a 3.8L commy engine curved with a massive volume of air behind the filter. Worked really well although never had that setup on the dyno. The only advice I can give design-wise is have the largest volume of air closest to the trumpets (after the filter ideally) as possible with as little restriction. I designed the carbon one to hold 30L of cold air post-filter and previous setup for 15L. Def works as after 2hrs on the dyno or after a 10 lap race you can touch the airbox and its dead cold.

If your looking close to hawkes bay you won't find anyone decent in hawkes bay, if I have to find one over there I just get them to set up machine and do it myself, most guys who do road car alignments all day long just don't understand the technicalities of a racecar alignment. We bring the ae82 down to Nick at mag and turbo palmerston north for all its wheel alignments/corner weighting etc etc. knows how to set ae82's up well from all the learning we have done with ours. the old man started off in the ae82 as a novice driver so Nick gradually changed the alignment as he got better so he got to know what it should feel like. now we run a normal FWD type race alignment (still on the mild side compared to what I prefer on my ae101) but the old man knows when its out by1-2mm now cause he's learnt how it should feel and handle. Means if he hits a curb a bit hard and can notice it, we can remedy it by the next race rather than having laptimes go backwards and wondering what you are doing wrong/whats wrong with car. Gives the driver added confidence to push hard. alignment settings are determined largely by your spring rates/swaybars/weight transfer (side to side) and front/rear balance. how the car loads/unloads under certain situations depends on what to set the toe and camber at. Also as much castor as possible makes these things handle. Have a close look at your spring rates first, they should be about 450-500lb front and 550lb rear with those shocks and swaybar if you are running a good quality semi or slick. maybe back those numbers off by 50lb for running a good road tyre. I know Barry likes to run lower spring rates in the rear for some reason, but this isn't the way to make a fwd car handle on the road or track so it would be worth checking out.

Nothing wrong with Sold Poly mounts in Racecar. Fine for road as well there is always some compromise with a race/road car which you just have to live with We originally Sikaflex'd the original mounts on the ae82 , lasted about a season before it all fell out and was rubbish. Sent mounts away to autolign and they made them into a solid poly mount. they are mint, make a big difference to how the car hooks up out of the corner and throttle response. I wouldn't be bothered about vibrations, its not bad at all (and our engine has massive lumpy cam to help with vibrations!) in fact I'm planning on mounting my 2zz with Nylon mounts to make it a bit more solid. I agree solid mounting metal to metal is rubbish but as long as there is some absorbant material in the middle it is fine.

I would be a bit careful of MRP coilovers on gravel.. we bent the shaft on the ae82 within a season of circuit racing which is waay easier on them than gravel. 42mm inverted bilsteins is the only option to stop bending shafts.

Awesome that looks like a win! Will be fully certified with a new authority card so shouldn't be a problem.

So I'm moving a whole heap of crap around in the racecar all in the name of making myself more comfortable while driving. this involves moving the seat back which in turn means moving the steering wheel and gear shifter back also.. So I've made a sweet 100mm extender for my steering wheel boss kit and now the indicator/wipers are miles away.. theres no way I could reach them with harnesses on! also this car has to be 100% road legal so I can daily drive it again.. So wipers and lights are easy to move to a switch panel in the centre console but I'm not sure about if I can move the indicators to a left/right switch like a motorbike (generic toggle switch prob) in the centre console as well or do they have to be located within reach of the steering wheel?? any help would be appreciated!

maybe too late but I would suggest talking to Kiwi cams here in palmy. old guy who ran it for years and years worked for TRD doing their cams on rally/race cars through the 80's... will be the best money you've ever spent. got them to do a set of race cams for 20V.. asked for power between 4000-9000rpm and plenty of torque with standard compression and got exactly what I asked for! car pulls like a champ. also +1 for go as big as possible. 20V cams were 304in 292ex and very streetable would easily drive around town on them.

Has anybody out there been game enough to draw up a 1uz by any chance? Have been drawing up a front end of an ae86 and would be sweet to drop the engine in there as well to figure out steering rack location etc.

ah yeah dammit somewhere in that spiel I got mixed up mybad! maths works though just haven't figured out a way of calculating pedal feel yet without going too deep into pedal ratios etc which can sometimes be an endless loop of simultaneous equations trying to get travel and force to work out. better to keep it simple. plus I suck at simultaneous equations since I stopped doing calculus at uni.. hope it helps anyway..

yeah I always get mixed up as well but you got to remember Force = Pressure x Area in a hydraulic system pressure throughout the system stays constant, meaning the ratio between the area of the master cylinder piston size and the caliper piston size is equal to the ratio the force is increased by.

So you need to decide on a front/rear balance you are aiming for. most rwd/4wd use about 65-35 front-rear split although I think you could get away with a bit more rear considering your car has a lot of weight back in the car and you have very little weight transfer/suspsension travel. This doesn't take into account the efficiencies of front/rear rotors and calipers and assumes both front and rear friction coefficients/disc conditions are constant. Work backwards through the equations below, keep in mind the larger the master cylinder, the more travel and force required but it gives a more direct pedal feel, of course this can be offset by changing the pedal ratio if needed but easiest to keep it simple. It is always best to set up the pedal box so balance bar is centred so you have adjustment each way depending on tyres, fuel loads, conditions etc etc. Hope this helps. worked well for rally car and will be setting up the pedal box MC's on the ae82 using this method.. also very easy to work backwards and compare front/rear balance of other cars. i.e. wanted to set rally car up with same brake balance as a late model evo and it worked awesomely.

Sweet what size master cylinders you got for?

Hey jase you get anywhere with this? Had an issue with brakes on a rally car last week so sat down and worked out the master sizes/front rear brake balance - similar to but reverse to what your wanting to figure out.. Ill do some calcs after work and explain when i have 5mins.

doesn't take much to road register a race car even if it doesn't have compliance. there is a loop hole for competition cars to be road reigstered - just need to get it sorted with a authority card and the right paperwork from msnz to ltsa.. cars looking good too btw.

yeah thats what I thought as well plus the hassle etc. brakes are not really a place where you want to not be confident in the setup.. yeah I think working out pedal pressures/braking clamping pressure wouldn't be a bad idea. I think I'll start close to the wilwood ratio and work from there. any ideas on what pressure a 4 pot wilwood caliper would see in terms of pressure? either line or piston face? I wonder what wilwood recommend?

i'm sure it would go awesomely in the wags! engine conversion packages are still super expensive for these engines though they go for about $3500 with box and loom etc.. too much for my pockets hence starting with a whole bunch of pieces.haha more progress on the weekend: here are some pics of the wheels and fitment luckily my race wheels fit perfectly as well with 25mm spacers all round.. if only I could find some 0 offset wheels that look awesome on fwd cars.. maybe some sportmaxx's?? lewl. also took the crappy castor adjustors out.. fuck me I am lucky they held up were bent and thread as screwed and bolts only held in by a few threads... just yuck never again! so this is how it will sit now camber-wise. will pull some castor into it on the top hat when shocks are away getting shortened.. worked out heights and I want to go down by 10mm all round. I will shorten shocks to this height and then wind the coilovers down a bit more (cert height is +/- 5% which adds up to about 15mm.. worked out heights for shocks and need to go 40mm shorter in the front and 80mm shorter in the rear to make captive for cert. will give about 50mm compression and 20mm droop in front and rear will prob only move 10-15mm with the springrates. guna be sick-O. will get them sent away in the next couple of weeks for shortening.. had a look at front springs as well and to my suprise they are 400lb springs.. but still rolls waay too much.. mate reckons 450lb might be a bit hard and I think i agree. will prob run it like this for a bit with the stiffer rear swaybar and see how it goes. had a bit more of a think and measure for the gearstick.. needs to be raised 300mm from the top of the tunnel and back by about 200mm from standard position. should work really well with the reverse h pattern and being at the right height! been working on CAD during smoko/lunch but just trying to figure out the best + lightest way to manufacture it as there are a few weird angles for widths of bolts etc... might simplify it a bit by oversizing the base and having the sides straight. need to make sure I make enough allowances for switches etc. have decided to strip the dash and wiring right out of the car as it has always been messy. will run the car ancillaries off one circuit/fuse board and the engine and fuel etc off another for future engine swaps/changes in wiring. means I can get rid of double ups in wiring from blacktop conversion and pull the heater out and replace it with a smaller core that is only wired to go on hot as that is the only reason I need it.. might look at sorting some manual windows but haven't thought that far ahead in detail yet..

Hmm yes that could work. Haven't sorted an alternator yet i can imagine it would be fairly underdriven as well due to diesels not needing a whole heap of the sparky juice...