Rhyscar

We will be in contact no doubt Brad! Just got to figure out what our options are

Yeah would have entered prenters if this engine hadn't melted down. Looking like it's a bit too close to get an engine together and get there though

So much better than that!

Oh sweet Brad may have to take you up on that offer. Guna get new (old) 4k and probably start from scratch. Nick took head off tonight, hole in piston and valve and cracked head. Bugger. Now to learn about how to build a sweet 4k in the next month before daybreaker.. not quite sure how we will make it happen but won't be cutting any corners

Oh gutted yeah it was a long way to be towed all the way round to serice park (ss6 was a rerun of ss1) Nah 4k is plenty of power for throwing some stones. Will keep it simple and just fix the issues and slap it back together with genuine everything. Plus don't want to risk loosing COD status from motorsport nz which means it's eligible to run in the classic class and increases the value of the car by a couple k..

It went pretty well. Had been dynoed at 130hp before we got it. More than enough power for what it is anyway and plan would be to get it back to that as it works awesomely with the new TRD close ratio box. It was definitely a fuel issue. The front plugs on each carb were lean/melted and the rear ones were running rich. Weather it is a problem with the carbs themselves or with the fuel pump/regulator we aren't sure until we pull it down. We also had a few electrical ghosts in the wiring as well with alternator/starter motor/dash lights So fuel pump could have lost voltage at a few points so that's another thing to check it's all correct.

So on the weekend we hauled this car up to the tauranga clubmans rally. Both of us having never competed in any gravel events and not having given the car a good run, we thought it would be a good chance to do a lot of learning before daybreaker as the rally was aimed at novices. Hauled the car up on sat. Did documentation and didn't have to do scrutineering luckily as we got it scrutineered before the back track day last weekend. They had a display of the cars etc so we had it parked up. Seeded 49 out of 50. Yeah!! Was a very cold and frosty morning so plenty to be careful about. Nick jumped in the drivers seat for stage 1 which was a real nice road and got up to speed quickly getting used to the car and me getting used to reading the road book notes. Stage 2 we switched driving. Had an issue on start line with no battery/starter motor. Roll started it and got into the stage. Was a fast flowing stage which suited me perfectly and slowly got into the groove. Within the first two stages we had encountered everything from the novice drivers briefing/rally license test. Came across so many crashes, one which happened just in front of us so we had to stop and make sure they were ok etc. Some of the places where people were crashing was just stupid, obviously just pushing way too hard. We didn't have that problem at our pace! Servicing after stage 2. Alternator wiring plug had come loose. Cable tie to the rescue and we had charge back in the battery. So just kept it running for the rest of the day. About 75% through stage 3 it started losing power, having to use 3rd gear to go up a slight hill. Pushed on through though. Stage 4 was very open and fast but missing was getting worse, not being able to go over 80kmh in stage. Got some sweet pics of no power skids in stage 4 Struggled with losing power in stage 5 and 6 until about half way through it came to a stop. Lost all compression essentially. Compression test showed up all except #2 having no compression and the spark plugs had melted. The only way to finish the day; All up it was an awesome experience. We learnt heaps about the time cards, what to do in every situatio and got a handle for the car. Also we were both happy with both of our driving and road reading. The suspension is awesome and has so much grip so can't wait the to get the engine rebuilt and take on daybreaker! Discussion;//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/43936-rhyscars-ke20-rally-car/#entry1339137

It's the finishing details that take the most amount of effort. Been a big week but making good progress Mounted new oldschool looking tachometer. Definitely going to be seeing 8k frequently!! Gear lever boot all sorted. Looks nice and tidy and keeps the wind on the outside! New catch can and breather hoses I slapped together tonight Spare tyre mounted - nick did a super nice job with this one Restored toolbox is a perfect place for the tow rope!

Thanks to Brett for the pic

All back together now. Finishing details take forever and cost the most! Has come together very nicely though everything looks awesome and works well. Dash complete, wiring all sorted, windows and doors back on and car runs. Starter motor/alternator wiring was pretty frustrating there just isn't any room! plenty of heat shield and shrink wrap to make sure it lasts the distance and we never have to take it out again. Is running a massive starter off a 5K van or something so that doesn't help. Did a final spanner check and got the basics of the graphics done. Also spent an evening fitting out the safety items and padding the rollcage. Took it out for a shakedown on the backtrack at Manfield last weekend to make sure nothing will fall off. Was more of a motokhana/autocross setup which didn't really suit the rally tyres + suspension but it was still good to throw it sideways. tried to use as much grass as possible to make it more interesting/do some skids a couple old toyotas, worlds apart Lunch is always the most important part of any motor racing event - the way it should be. parked up under the toyota sign for nostalgia's sake. We have entered our first rally for next weekend. It is a clubmans rally in Tauranga for novice drivers which describes us to a tee! 80km of stages should be a good introduction and should be a blast. Still plenty more things to get sorted with the car; Diff has a leak, need catch can sorted, hole in tunnel to cover, mudflaps to make + attach... the list goes on but we will make it. Most importantly I need to sit my rally license and get the authority card back from MSNZ! Will all be worth it when we can throw some stones around - hoping to have some vid of the 4K going strong on the gravel.

Finished Result; Note the attention to detail on the handbrake/kill switch mount. I know Nick is quite proud of that one..

Yep it will be the car your thinking of. It was quite well known down those ways. Was built in 93 I believe by 'TRD south' or something like that. We bought it from Ross Cameron who apparently had two of these (other may have been a KE25), his son ?nick? rallied this one up until a year or so ago when it got parked.

Thanks that would be awesome. Shaping up to be an awesome event this year by the looks, all new roads starting from taihape and finishing in fielding.

Discuss here if needed; //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/43935-ke20-rally-car/

So thought I'd put something up here. Bought this car about 8months ago with a friend with the intention to get into rallying a oldschool RWD car for cheap and having some fun (the way they used to with mo's a beer for lunch) as we both have circuit cars as well and came to the conclusion neither of us could handle ever selling our POS circuit cars to fund a rally car. We are planning to do the Daybreaker Rally in 2014, there is a clause in the rules that still state that the co-driver can drive some of the stages if they want. So we are doing stage-for-stage driving the car. Neither of us have any rally driving experience, only rally experience is servicing stupidly custom hayabusa starlets so doubt that'll be much use to us... so will be an interesting learning curve considering neither of us can read notes so will just do the rally blind at this stage. Got the car cheap from down south where it had been running for a number of years. Mechanically pretty sound few bits and pieces we have had to sort but all in all its pretty good. Car just needed a birthday really. A lot of things were done really hory and the interior was a sight to behold.. A bit of TLC is what it needed. It has a COD (certificate of description) which means we can run legitimately in the classic class and also gives the car a bit more value. As we got the car got rid of the racetech 100's that neither of us could fit our fat arses into and mounted the seats from my circuit car. only just fits in there theres a 10mm gap between the seats and each seat just clears the door on the outside of the car. This is what we are aiming for the car to look like by daybreaker; took it for a skid at the farm to test it all out. Goes bloody well! the 4K in it is grumpy as hell got a massive cam, dellortos and revs out over 8K so were pretty happy with that. Has a AE86 diff (TRD plate diff), gearbox and front struts with Bilstein shocks all round so handled it all really well. Was super tail happy so after this we put it on the alignment machine; turns out it was toeing out by 8mm.. nothing a angle grinder and welder can't solve! So the strip down begun, just to tidy up everything as there were bits of rust, birdshit welding and general horiness in quite a few places. our aim was to tidy up the inside and do everything right. As well as sort out the crunchy synchro's in the gearbox which hindered us while testing Some of the good bits.. grp 4 inserts in the front Some of the shit, starting to strip the whole interior of paint ready for a full respray (check out how dented the floor is - this has been a rally car for quite a while!) Tidying up the struts Jase (ekezetec) made me some new footplates New parcel tray to tidy it up So we had a bit of drama with this. We intended to use my paint I used ont he 101 and it just turned to shit. Apprentice painter painted it for us and did a shit job turned out rough and not glossy at all and was never going to cut it. So got some white CV and did it again with a mate Rob at the gun. Damn he's good at pretty much everything and only wanted a 24 box of export for it which we pretty much drank while he painted... what a GC! Had to spend a lot of extra time re-prepping it again which sucked but at least its done properly. All masked up and ready to go for round 2. Rob at work So much glossier than 1st time round. Main thing was it had to be glossy so dust can be cleaned out properly after every rally. Finished result - really happy with how it turned out! New battery mount welded in and nice straps made. Also ran new cables and put a nice sheath over the outer to keep it all looking tidy Toolbox has been restored taking it right back to bare metal and repainted/remounted using some tidy go-kart washers. Also painted the fuel tank while it was out to tidy it up Nick spent heaps of time cleaning up the rear trims. We used expanding foam up the pillars to try and seal the dust out of the cabin. hopefully this will work well along with our new door seals - got a full set of brand rubbers from thailand so that will make everything seal really well hopefully. Dash has been fully re-coed. Looks 10000x better than it did before. Just looking for a small black retro looking tacho to run now so we can get rid of the monster tacho it currently has.. Dash mostly back together now just need to replace the indicator-lamp-oil-light with a nice little LED unit and mount in the new carbon panel. Also had the top panels of the dash repainted and flocked, looks super tidy and definately worth the money to do it properly! Waiting for the foot plates, seat mounts and isolator switch bracket to return from anodising this week to finish off our nice shiny bits and pieces.. Will post more pics when they arrive. Got new Flywheel bolts for it and machined the flywheel properly so the new TRD close ratio box can go in this weekend hopefully. Also have decided to make a new driveshaft. The output of the TRD box has a ae86 spline which we had to change, Nick had a ae86 driveshaft sitting there so thought we may as well use that! just need to shorten by a few mm and weld back together.

Hankooks are the tits. Run softs of the Corolla and they last awesome and work good from cold. In a car as light as yours you should have no worries. Other slicks we've tried; Khumo - not bad, cheap but don't last more than 1 or 2 meetings on a 860kg race weight car which I consider pretty poor Dunlop - pay the earth and they are shit, worse than a khumo Michelin - have heard they are awesome, can't get anyone to bring any into the country Do they do that 'semi' in a soft compound or is it just the medium? generally semi's will be a medium slick compound

this is tits. Sweet little bohemian love shack!

So got the shifter mounted tonight and tested out my seating position - It's mint!! need to bring pedals towards me about 70mm though but that is doable and actually makes clearances around the steering column better. Mounted the AW11 shifter as well for my reverse H-pattern. Couple of small things to tidy up but getting there. Worked out what I'm going to do for the gearshift linkages as well. Will use a couple of levers on some bearings with adjustable pivot points so I can adjust how short I want the gear change to be. Will get onto some solidworks drawings and make sure it is going to work.

hah I've just got to finish it is the problem.. Can anybody recommend a good anodizing place in north island somewhere preferably? Looking to anodize quite a bit of stuff for this and the rally car also.

Oh yeah and this... starting to gather my thoughts from the last 12 months as to how this ITB/outboard injection is actually going to work. Looks promising/boss.

Bits and pieces for hydraulic handbrake/gear raiser Big thanks to Jase for machining this for me.. Still got to test it out and put on engine etc but it looks sexy as shit! C60 Gearbox - diff to go in over the next month and will replace any bearings or synchro's which need doing while I'm in there. 2zz all ready to go apart from missing a few bits and pieces and needing to be repainted.. (lol thanks lt Dan) Pile of stuff waiting to go in the car is getting larger by the week. Waiting for quite a bit of Laser cutting to be completed at the moment which should see most of this stuff installed. Also taking some time off work to get stuck into it and get seats mounted and pedal box installed. Also need to decide how to go about repainting the inside of the car.. Just done this job on the rally car and its a PRICK so not sure quite how to attack it as I can't get the Gunmetal grey Hammerite paint I used originally to do the inside.

I'm not really too interested in the high/low cam side of things but in how the phasing of the cam from the VVTI/VVT can increase performance. For now I'm just looking to get the most out of a standard cam but will be looking at going as aggressive as I can in the future - hopefully the VVTI/VVT can help me make an aggressive cam work over a wider range of revs but I'm not sure exactly how this would happen.. (if at all possible) Simon - Interested to see VVTI info.

Hey Rob, Here's a new-school cam question (markku has prob already chatted to you about it), but essentially a lot of the new japanese (when I mean new I mean 2000's) engines have vvti/vvt on either cam such as my 2zz. Firstly, knowing nothing about the difference in the cams and the maps these VVTI systems run, how could the map be optimized at different revs to bring the cam on earlier or provide more boogie up top etc. Essentially toyota/honda etc did these systems for a reason which hopefully aren't 100% emissions based - I'm really just wanting to get the most out of what the engine/cams have. Secondly, how would a cam profile for use with VVTI differ to your 'standard' non VVTI type engine and if/how could these systems be used to optimize the engine for a more aggressive cam? or is non-VVTI always going to be a better option (application I'm thinking of is throttle response, good torque from 4000rpm and still plenty of power and reviness through to 9500rpm which is normally quite a bit to ask for from a non-VVT/VVTI cam) Thanks

very interesting discussion/topic! you can definitely see how cars like the later model Evo's are far better performance cars for the average joe driver. The key to making that faster for fast drivers it to be able to tune the diff (much like an engine map) better drivers, different surfaces and people who really know what they are doing. Without this they are understeery pigs to drive and not any faster than a WRX with a driver that knows whats happening. The tuning of the diff is the main reason why any group N equivalent type rally series world wide has been dominated by Evo's in the past 10 years and there is only a handful of people around who know how to do it well.. Although personally I hate the feeling of stability or traction controls kicking in at any point. This has been made worse by the adaption of Fly-by-wire throttles in most modern cars as it is so easy for car manufacturers to integrate these systems fairly well (no harsh cut out etc). The reason I don't like them is I believe when driving, what the car is doing, how each tyre is reacting and how it reacts to power application and braking is the most important information in giving you the driving confidence to attack each corner as you can characterize the car, surface and the tyres behavior and know what will happen. In a car which numbs those senses (only in places as well) I don't have the confidence to push as hard as I could if I can feel everything. Parents have a 2013 wrx with stability control etc and I absolutely HATE it. First thing I do when I get into it is turn it off. They have 10km of private gravel road and I've driven it all over the country (they had a 2011 wrx previous to that) extremely hard. The way it reacts and handles changes in surfaces is fine for a driver who doesn't know what to expect but I find myself correcting steering and changing weigh transfers before it can pull itself back into line which instantly sends you heading directly into the opposite wall you were originally heading for! When everything is turned off its a good car, you can feel where it has massive amounts of mechanical grip and those places in the surface which cause a slight loss of traction and changes the slip angle or weight transfer characteristics of the car slightly (although still needs a much smarter/quicker centre diff). All this information helps me make a better assessment of whats coming up and how to get out of a situation if shit gets ugly.. Similarly, our company cars (hybrid camry) have a weird braking assist (might be linked into regenerative braking system) which gives a different feel depending on how quickly you apply the brakes annoys the crap out of me and makes me feel nervous every time I drive it.. I asked a co-worker how he thought it felt and didn't even notice it doing anything different. Essentially in summary, Electronics in new cars make it easy for manufacturers to deliver sporty characteristics with all the creature comforts of a daily driver with softer suspension, doesn't do big B-outs with the ga-gillion HP it has etc. Also makes it safer for average drivers. If people want to drive faster and look 'cool' just drive, then drive some more and then just drive again it's all about feel and what understeer/oversteer/scrubing speed and unloading each wheel feels like when behind the wheel. I like the idea of honing the skill of driving to go fast rather than just jumping in the newest technology and going fast without knowing whats actually happening. No one wants to be a poser!! All in all, very interesting discussion, electronic controls of the car (brakes, steering, throttle) scares the living shit out of me. Hence why I'm never buying a car that wasn't built in the 90's or earlier!

Engine pics..