bonkas

Hey Guys, Have hit another snag just as I am at the point to put this engine together - G63B.

The main studs I had bought which were supposed to fit this engine... dont.

The Original Bolts are 2.8"(69mm) in length with 1"(25mm)x1.25mm thread.

The new studs are 11mm and not 10mm required and also have a total length of 3.8" (96.52mm) - This means the when the studs are installed there is not enough thread to tighten things down as there is only EXACTLY enough thread to tighten the bolt to the height on the caps (Have not tested as they are too large (11mm vs 10mm required so only going by my eyeball and calculations in my head).

All I can find in 10mm is the above length which will not fit.

Does anyone know a model number of ARP studs which are 10mm roughly 1"(25mm) thread on each end and maybe 3-3.5" in total length.

Or even if anyone knows of a ARP dealer in NZ I can call to find something to suit?

1 hour ago, 66gt said:

Take them in covered in crap and pick up looking like new. 

Thats the bit I like haha as I only have a kitchen sink available to me for cleaning, I dont think the Mr's will be too impressed with that

@Mr Vapour Yep I was considering sending them to you but I have some larger parts - Sump, Rocker Cover, few brackets, pulleys etc. Since they are really grubby I wasnt sure if I needed to get them spotless before any further process or if it's possible to vapour blast in the current state hence asking around if anyone has a parts washer as some bits are just grubby but will not need any further cleaning like oil pickup, few brackets and stuff.. @Mr Vapour how clean do you require the parts to be?

I need to get them cleaned up to accept a new lick of paint before they go on the car

Yeah my bits are a mixture of oil, dirt/oily mud and surface rust.

Little progress but progress none the less.

Picked up bit required to start putting this engine back together. Picking up the main studs tuesday which should let me start the build!

Parts ready to be cleaned and vapour blasted where necessary:

Hey Guys,

In preparation of putting my engine back together I need to cleanup some oily dirty parts (Oil Pickup, filter housing, misc parts from front and back of engine and tidy up rocker cover and sump to be vapour blasted., I dont have the resources at home to do this so hoping I can borrow some time using someones parts washer.

Also if anyone knows a good way to cleanup old dirty bolts ready for re-assembly - I have them all in ice cream containers so if there is something I can soak the whole lot in - I am sure I have seen a thread on here somewhere about this and someone cleaned up a flywheel quite nicely just by soaking it?

Turns out it has ended up not too bad.

With the new rods, gudgeon pins etc the whole piston assembly ends up lighter than the old gear so a little win there.

Also with the new valves which have gone into the head, this has decreased the chamber volume and my compression ratio has raised beyond what I wanted (10.8 instead of 10.5) it's getting a little high and I want to run regular pump gas. Good thing I didn't get the original 10cc dome I asked for or the CR will be way way high.

Bit more progress before the new year, block has been bored to 86mm, all rotating assembly's balanced (Pistons, rods, crank, clutch, flywheel etc) flywheel has been lightened. Crank has been polished, 40% heavier pressure plate and new clutch. Headers cleaned up ready for paint or wrap - not sure what im going to do yet. and finally the sharp edges of the pistons have been polished out, just for a reduced chance of detonation.

Few little things to tidy up which have been overlooked:

• Install EGR blocking plugs and blend into combustion chamber. Will take head back in once this has been done to get the head CC'd against our beginning numbers.
• New CR has been calculated to around 10.87:1 (I was hoping for 10.5) may need to do more work to combustion chamber to account for this. Good thing I didn't get the full 10cc of dome on the pistons or the compression ratio would be way way off!
• Dummy fit crank, rods and pistons to check head clearance.
• Dowels in block which help align the head dont seem to have been put back, will have to source/machine more.

Yup i've ordered pressure plate bolts and the crank bolt, I believe there is also a spacer that goes with the crank bolt which I also cannot find - Due to other people working on different vehicle and having a disregard for other people stuff all my nuts and bolts have been moved, mixed up with other vehicles stuff etc, only things I have been able to identify as mine is the pulleys and gears etc.

grrr makes me mad, so much for a straightforward re-assembly.

Couldnt find a listing for ARP ones... but I did pick up a new crank bolt and flywheel bolts which are genuine parts so should do the job.

Only question is if the crank pulley is correct - we will see when they arrive!

FInally some decent progress!

I now have cam sorted, solid lifter gear, beehive valve springs, larger valves, new retainers, spring seats, intake ports taken out to ~40mm and changed the port for better flow etc - All of this would not be possible if it wasn't for @ToMitz so a huge thank you goes out to him!

Yep I have both CAPS and ASA but the oldest vehicle they have is a 87 L200 which seems to also have the G63B engine, this is where I pulled these part numbers from.

No-one has a scrap G63B or 4g63 lying around I can scavenge the other required bolts from?

I have found this info so far, hopefully someone can confirm..

Crank Center Bolt (MD376614)
Pressure Plate Bolts (MF241251) - M8x16
 

Hey Guys,

Hopefully someone can help me here. While my engine has been in bits it seems my container of bolts has been mixed up with another vehicles...

My New Pistons, Rods, Crank, Block and Flywheel are at the engine builders being lightened, balanced etc.

Issue I have is they need the pressure plate bolts and the crank pulley bolt - neither of wich I can find.

Does anyone know what these should be so I can find/buy some more?

Have given a whole new lease of life to these headers. 

Still researching ideas on this.. I am on the lookout and have my eye of a few suitable fans with similair sized shrouds to my radiator on trademe.

What temp is ideal for the fan to switch on at? I found these which seem to be reasonably priced: http://www.staparts.co.nz/View-A-Product/id/14094/description/Radiator fan thermostat relay kit activates at 190 degrees F

The idea with the in-line pipe fitting also seems a good way to go too and I could still use this kit.

I am taking my radiator in at some point when new motor is ready to go in car to get cleaned, reconditioned so any fittings can be added then.

Adjustable from 150-250 Degrees F:
http://www.staparts.co.nz/View-A-Product?id=10696&Productid=Radiator fan adjustable thermostat 150 degree F to 240 degre

Digital Controller (Currently can be found on trademe for $99):
http://www.staparts.co.nz/View-A-Product/id/4810/description/Fan temp controller for water and oil and displays volts wit

Small update while I wait for my head and cam to come back. 

Sending headers I rescued from doner car in to get cleaned up. What is the best coating to put on these? 

Also going to source new uprated clutch and have flywheel lightened. 

Have had a wee setback, have received the pistons but they do not have the 10cc dome I had asked for, only 7cc which means the compression ratio I was shooting for will not be correct so further decking of the block and modifying of the pistons is required (deck block, machine pistons to suit and smooth out the dome and valve pockets for better flow and to prevent hot spots. All of this would have been avoided if the pistons were correct.

This was mis-communication between myself, the agent and the manufacturer and I am unsure where I stand in regards to hitting up the piston agent. I had asked for a 10cc dome which they had done BEFORE cutting the valve pockets so this has left me with 7cc overall.

Bit of a discussion of this over here:

New valves have arrived and seats are being cut this week and cam is being sorted as we speak so hopefully the head will be back with me this week or next and I can start work on manifolds, pistons and block work (balancing, decking etc).

Have had a wee setback, have received the pistons but they do not have the 10cc dome I had asked for, only 7cc which means the compression ratio I was shooting for will not be correct so further decking of the block and modifying of the pistons is required (deck block, machine pistons to suit and smooth out the dome and valve pockets for better flow and to prevent hot spots. All of this would have been avoided if the pistons were correct.

This was mis-communication between myself, the agent and the manufacturer and I am unsure where I stand in regards to hitting up the piston agent. I had asked for a 10cc dome which they had done BEFORE cutting the valve pockets so this has left me with 7cc overall.

Bit of a discussion of this over here:

New valves have arrived and seats are being cut this week and cam is being sorted as we speak so hopefully the head will be back with me this week or next and I can start work on manifolds, pistons and block work (balancing, decking etc).

On 11/13/2017 at 09:14, Testament said:

my guess would be the fault is with the agent as im pretty sure ross would have required that form and made to meet that spec. But if you don't have any of those things in written form the agent could be real a dick about it if they are and old hat belligerent barry im the race parts guy and I know best kind of crowd.

the dome size is not that big of an issue but +1mm and 30% heavier than the stock piston is not really acceptable if you asked for lightweight n/a for high rpm and stock bore.

That is exactly the problem, sent numerous email but received no useful replies due to "I hate the computer, I dont go near them, my wife does the computer stuff" so everything was organised over the phone. I can imagine having a hard time convincing him of anything so I have not yet contacted him about it.

The dome size is something I can get around bu decking the block and a head skim and modifying the pistons to suit - The reason I ordered custom pistons in the first place was so all this could have been avoided.

I did order 1mm oversize, this is the only chinese whispers that got through correct to the manufacturer.. I should edit my initial post.

Sorry I was not very clear in my initial post....

I ordered the pistons 1mm oversize as I am increasing the bore size.

@fuel I chose to keep what i've got (SOHC 8V 4G63) because that's what I have and to see what I could make of it, I am well aware of other options but wanted the experience of the build/modifying process and wasnt shooting for huge numbers but doing what I could with what i have. Your advise is always spot on and informative, even if I dont follow it haha... before I started the build you did advise a different head but I wanted to go ahead with what i had.

@nzed No I didnt weigh with the pin as it never got sent back to me! so I dont have one to measure with I was hoping it didnt weigh enough to matter a huge amount. Will track one down and measure again, I do understand this will skew my weights. The total weight of the rod, piston and pin wont be too much different drom stock as my new forged rods are ~150 grams lighter than stock but I was really aiming for a lighter assembly.

@Roman I had sent a few emails but got no reply so most discussion was over the phone (This guy is oldschool), I was pretty specific about weight savings and the dome I wanted. The head for the engine was in Christchurch having work done and the Piston Agent/Engineer was also located in Christchurch so he took a look at my head and took all required measurements to put through the order, I had no expertise in this regards so left this up to him.

I am confident I can make up the 3cc after the head and block are decked when ready to be put together anyway.

Hey Guys, I need your thoughts on some new forged pistons I had arrive today for my 4g63 build.

I put the order through the Ross piston agent here in NZ as they were recommended to my by local engine builders and also a few friends.

My specific instructions were that I needed to save weight where I can as I am looking at spinning much higher RPM, Need a 10cc dome to obtain the CR I want and 1mm oversize.

My head got measured up and specs of new valves, potential lift/duration etc and the order was placed.

What I got back was not what I expected...

They only contain a 7cc dome (they machined a 10cc dome but with the valve pockets this has come down to 7cc)
They are identical/pretty close to the original - no weight savings as far as I can tell
My calipers are not with me at the moment but they appear to be 1mm oversize - Th is correct as I asked for 1mm oversize.
There is a significant weight difference - 363g Stock 445g Forged

The few people I have shown the pistons who build race engines for a living have referred them to a "lawnmower piston".

This has gotten me a bit down on the big plans I had as these pistons cost me a pretty penny and at this point I just want to give up on the whole project as everything revolved around these pistons.

It really comes down to 2 questions... Will these still be suitable for higher RPM. I was hoping 8-9k but higher would be a bonus. Is the weight difference anything to be concerned about?

Here are some pics:

Chur guys, Have made the decision to continue onto the 45 path.

Increasing intake port size to 41.5mm, will need to fabricate a manifold to taper down to this size.

Hey Guys,

Have run into another issue which I am having trouble finding a clear answer for.

I am looking to run a pair of Dellorto DHLA 45's on my 4g63.

I am at the point where I need to make a decision on Intake Port Size, the valves have been enlarged so I need to also increase the small port for more flow.

The carbs I have are 45's, One which is in need of repair and they both need a rebuild and misc parts replaced.

The real question is do I run 45's with a smaller choke size (34mm or so, 36-38mm for peak power around 6000rpm ish) or do I sell these carbs and pick up the 40's which are on trademe at the moment which have been rebuilt and tunes for a 1600, I will just need to adjust the chokes etc to suit the larger capacity engine.

Do I port match to 40mm and run the 45's anyway or is this a poor thing to do?, port match to 45mm with the 45mm carbs or get the 40mm carbs and go to a 40mm port.

The engine is having compression increased to around 10.5:1, port and polished head (bar intake), 2mm larger intake and 1.5mm larger exhaust valves.