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About nzed

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  1. It is a little odd that it has dropped so much on both front and rears. might be worth soaking it a little to check it hasn't just gunked up and seals are sticky. Especially if i has been running rich AF and heavily carboned up.
  2. ring archers springs down here in takanini. GC's to deal with. Had an extra load leaf added to mine to help deal with the extra power increase and stiffen it up a lil and reset so sits the same height as it was before and all new clamps etc and was about 400. Mate had his camaro leaf springs done, they made a new leaf for each side and was about 250 or something. i would hazard a guess the van and truck springs be different.
  3. Got a pretty busy couple weeks coming up, with work and helping a couple mates with thier projects and things going on. I need a few quiet hours to get further with setting up the cam, this rollermaster cam gear set is really nice with heaps of adjustablity. Need to be able to concentrate on this one as I don't want to stuff it up haha. looking forward to getting it done so can progress to next parts 'cos this is when it will start to look good! cheers, for sticking in for the painfully slow ride..
  4. Small update time.. Block decked and bored, crank ground, cam bearings fitted and rings gapped. All new frost plugs etc etc The cleaning acid stuff at the engine machine shop fucked the new paint, so had to strip it again and we painted it, again. Rods fitted with new ARP bolts and re-sized. Balancing all done Pistons mounted and aligned The guys at franklin engineering done a sweet job and super happy with the balancing and stuff they did. Couldn't recommend them enough! Let the reassembly begin starting to degree the cam in, but shortly realised this is too hard without the right tool. I rangi'd up a piston stop so i could find TDC properly. ( dont take note of where the piston is sitting ( stop backed right off ), as this pic was taken once TDC was found but its been rotated 180degress since then lol. This about where I got to before i realised I couldn't turn the rotating assembly well enough without buying a crank socket to use a 1/2" drive bar and hold the degree wheel properly so i got a tool like this. The socket fits over the crank and picks up on the keyway, the degree wheel is help on over that thread and clamped in by that knurled nut. this allows me to turn the motor around by the front of the crank so I can see what i'm doing. SO much easier. Unfortunately I haven't finished as haven't had time to get back onto this job since the tool arrived. Progress is progress though.
  5. Picture less update. New piston and gudgeon is 155gms lighter per pc. Makes rotating assembly 1.24kgs lighter. Nice. Unfortunately segies sent the wrong big end bearings. Meant I couldn't trial assembly a rod and piston in the block to check deck to piston heights in each corner of the block to check it's square. Hopefully have the replacement shells soon enough and can carry on.
  6. Yeah. I know right. Well hopefully this will be closer to the end of it everything driveline has been rebuilt. Leaves only front end basically. Still yet to buy new rad and electric fan setup Too. Have sorted a big grunty derale fan for max blow jobs. Just got to decide which type of controller to use.
  7. The new ones are quite a bit lighter I believe but I won't know by how much exactly till tomorrow. Yup I'm getting the whole lot rebalanced once I've set the comp ratios etc.
  8. lol harsh. speaking of which i still haven't straightened those wheel dollys.
  9. I had taken the motor to the engine reconditioners to fit new cam bearings as I reeeeeally CBF doing this job as it meant making up some mandrels and shit and i just want it going so pay the man the money. As we're standing there yarning he's looking down the the bores and asks if i knew it has a couple of broken top rings...? and thats where the wheels fell off. I stripped it down, and found FOUR cylinders had these: Cunzings... typical. I measured everything up in terms of wear on all parts and ordered new pistons and rings ex US. the block and rotating assy was delivered to another engine reconditioners down the line that was a bit more old school orientated and that is being finished as i write this. 1.5 days ago, these arrived: I decided to go with KB hypereutectic pistons. So pumped once these arrived, so much so that i delivered them 3 hrs down the road that night instead of couriering them, that way i knew they would be there in time so I can pick it all up over easter weekend... fuck yeah. Block is decked and bored +0.030", new cam bearings fitted, the cranks -0.010" on both journals, and the rods been checked and trued ready for assembly. Hopefully have pics of the rotating assy ready to send for balancing in a week or two once i've got the pistons ready as i still need to set the static compression ratios up and will need to modify them a lil to get it where i want the dynamic ratio to be.
  10. So I came across these, well priced etc. Not a wheel I want to keep but will do for now until I find something really nice.. no pics of these on till later hehe.
  11. So while driveline bits and peices are happening, my mate brought some wheels over because eventually i wanted to put 20's on it to fill the gaurds a bit better and i've never liked the rims that were on it and we wanted to see how they would fit/look etc.. despite this pic the rim is tucked up under the car a little more that old ride height I was really impressed with the alloy colour on the car and to be quite honest i didnt think it would work, as I was going to do black again. buuuut nope i changed my mind quickly. So the major problem ive always had was since the previous owner in their laziness welded the spats in and bogged over it - due to the rim size and offset, its always been almost impossible to get the wheel off the car and under the spat on an angle. I didnt realise this problem when i first got the car and put a slightly taller profile rear tyre on it to try and help correct the revs as it was revving too high at 62mph. I got them on but what a fucking mish. So, my initial fix was to run a 20" rim as the cross section between the outer dia of the tyre and smallest dia of the inside of the rim is much smaller than the 17" rim and current tyre + the fact it needs a larger rolling circumference on it as well.. this would allow the rim to drop down further and create more clearance between the drum brake and the spat and actually come out. That would work but its such a hassle. So yeah: So much better. I've wanted the body line therer as well to help skinny up the huge plain panel and have some features..
  12. Argh. I want an xe / xf bad. Try air pressure instead of rope?
  13. Super stoked for u greg. saw it at the show tonight while helping a mate. lets hope this things is a lil more reliable for you then the previous....
  14. Have a lil Google for "Mopar 8 3/4" diff green bearings" and pulls up hears of results and info on them.
  15. Shit, sorry man i forgot about this. Yeah they have arrived i'll get some pics of them. havent assembled yet.. but will update as I get things done.