azzurro

Cheers man, those 2101 ones are the same as the 124 ones i think, like this: I need the same part but bigger, My strips are 42mm wide and require a 32mm wide clip, that rectangular is more like a large door trim clip and fit a 8mm diam hole. Does holds the trim in a similar way tho. I think the 2107 has a wider strip and might use the 125 style clip? dunno. Id take a photo of it but ive lost my only one

couple vids for ya from my boy from yesterdays test runs: this one features a cool blue car siaSHFAI1dM and this one has some not very sustained loss of traction and 60mph like a boss (seperately of course) 35lcC0ci7y8

^ thats hawt! Eddie, do you know what the part number is for the clips that hold the long chrome strip that is on the sills? Or how wide those strips are? I need some for my Fiat 125 and I think they will fit, but I cant find the number in my 2107 Katalog - there is a picture of them but no number

Did another job today (after making coffee, pancakes with fruit salad and cream, and doing the dishes ) which was relay the headlights. Wow what a difference! I decided to use 4 relays (one for each light) as i had 4 and this allowed me to have some redundancy as well (each one has 2x 87 (power out) pins) in case one of the cheap ones blow. I also retained all of the factory wiring (IMO its the loading through the ignition, cloumn and dash switchs that is the problem with this circuit, not the wires themselves) and i have already installed modern lamp plugs at the bright end. The only extra wire is between the relay 86 pin and the old fuse box outs (for switching), a ground for the relays (85 pin) and + from my fused distribution block for a solid power supply (30 pin). The hot supply to the lamps is the old fuse box to lamps wiring but now plugged into the switched 87 pin on the relay. The point of all this is so now, the only load on the the fuse box, ignition and dash and column lights switches, is that needed to trigger the relays, which is milli-Amps not big Amps x resistance through 40 year old switch contacts that could hardly cope when new. Still have to get 2 more bosch relays and mount them on something less agricultural, and tidy up the wires more but it works very well. Also went for an italian tune up, to check out the state of my newly rebuilt carb, and the car goes much much better, but still has a big hesitation on mashing the go pedal, otherwise its fine. I popped in to my boys mates place to pick up his bike that he left there the other day, (good excuse to test the racks) and his old boy (a mechanic) thinks maybe the accellerator pump jet is still a wee bit blocked or it needs a slightly bigger jet - i tend to agree. I also think that I could maybe be a bit more aggressive on the jets in the secondary for a bit more pep on WOT. All in all its only a minor issue (not a break-downy one) and now im happy to start to drive this around more and go a bit further now While i was out, we stopped for a couple of shots that were not on the driveway: not sure if i should put the shorter (by about 1") rack feet at the front or rear, currently at the rear - I like how the rake complements/highlights the reverse wedge shape of the car, but maybe its supposed to be the other way around? My boy also took some 'in car video' so ill try to get it out of his i-pod soon.

ended up picking up my rebuild kit from weber specs late friday so today, being a bit shitty outside, I got cracking inside. Was not permitted on the kitchen table in the sun, but worked out well in second choice location anyway Had some some bleg in the emulsion tubes, and you can see the state of the rest of the fuel bowl in the background, and found a few other blocked orifices as well: part of taking it apart was to check all the bits were within spec (i used the specs for a 1600 base model 132), as ive got 1 1/2 spare DMS as well as 3 other webers to steal bits from - ended up changing just about every thing, including the blocked tubes for the 'fluted' ones on the top: the new needle valve was also quite different! Changed the accellorator pump and the choke diaphrams as well. I was stressing about messing it up, but I followed this guys http://tedperkins.com/carb_rebuild.htm advice and found it all quite theraputic, key is to take your time and be organised - i had a parts tray thing with heaps of dividers and did a component/barrell at a time, and it even came out looking much better: set it to base settings, chucked it on and once the fuel pump had built up some juice the engine fired up almost straight away on a fast but smooth idle. Bit of fiddling and it seems to run much much better now, even could put the static advance back a bit too to where the 10 deg mark is, nice and steady dile and rock solid on the mark. Havnt had a road run yet, but feels very promising

sweet, i knew that place by another name. should be able to get there in time for a roadie. i shall keep an eye out for sweet sweet pipework

did this for the pshop thread a while ago but dude is no longer active i think, anyways your beast looks good on them steelies

assuming weber specs sends me a goddam kit for my carb already (i will go in tomorrow ad pick it up i think) and that actually what is wrong with my car, i will be there. i work on the shore now too - so where is this backyard bar? keen on convoy/tow vehicles

my Fiat does the same thing - if its been sat for a while the engine has to be cranked for quite a while so the mechanical fuel pump (on the engine) can draw fuel back up from the tank again and will run rough for a while untill all the air is gone. I just supposed it was just lack of a one way valve of some description or another in the design of the fuel system. A blocked breather would exacerbate the issue by creating a suction/siphon in the tank as its level drops and though temp changes, but also affecting engine running though fuel starvation (pump can overcome vacuum in tank esp via a long run of small ID pipe) if its blocked bad enough. If its like my fiat, the breather will be a pretty long looped lenth of pipe off the tank sender/top of tank venting into the rubber under the fuel filler flap. Just replace it and/or clean it out. You can probably get inline fuel filters with a one way valve?

No progress on making it go better, other than getting in touch with Murray at Weber Specialties to order a rebuild kit for my carb. I had to remove the carb to check a few things so as to get the right kit, so going backwards really, but that guy seems like a walking encyclopaedia. Bit spendy, but the dude knows his shit. However in anticipation of future actual use/missions i finally went and picked up from 73crownwagons place some roofracks he kindly brought up from nats for me (fanx mang), that id purchased off shavenyak way back in february. Based on teh measurements yak had given i thought they might have needed some cut and shut to fit properly, but they fitted on pretty much perfect: Only issue is the original clamps to hold them on had been lost in the Yaks shed somewhere, so, i had to make some, which i have sort of done before to fit an OEM Nissan Terrano roofrack onto my Homy van. A random Prorack fitting kit from supercheap provides the basic parts - just bent, cut and ground a bit. They are made of very hard stainless steel so they wont rust, but are a reall bastard to drill (with my blunt bits): Also had these random stainless allen shank nut things which have been in my bolt bin for ages - fitted perfectly inside the clamp pipey thing: Ive cleaned off the tape and hardened plastic on the base of the feet, cut up some black silicone vacuum hose to replace it, wirebrushed off the rust and painted the ends silver so it looks nice and tidy like the rest of ithe rack, just need to get a couple more bits of hardware after wook next week sometime to complete and shes all good to go back on. I can see that it will end up being filled up with crap all the time as a storage area in the shed, so ill only be rocking them when needed. Looking forward to chucking the bikes up there as this might save me putting my towbar on (for a bike rack) which is as heavy as all get out.

Keen on getting a Pertronix Ignitor system (pointsless ignition) for this as they do make a kit to fit all of my potetial dizzy options: http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx Any opinions/Experience? I can get them from the US for US$89 + shipping, but on T-Me they seem to be around $220, which seems a bit steep? Would also like to express more than a passing interest in some good condition DCOE40 Weber's or DLHA40 D'ellorto sidedrafts if anyone is holding.

So hanvt done too much on the list in the last post other than fix the steering wheel noise and fit a Weber DMS during the week. This latter job took blardy aaaages as the action required was the opposite to the original carb and also passes though a greater arc. These cars have a rods and linkage set up and the bits between the go pedal, fire wall and the cam box/carb is (mostly) interchangeable between models. Luckily i have the right linkage from the car that ran the carb im installing (a Weber DMS from a 1600 GLS Model 132), but it you would not believe how long it took bending up the little adjustable rod to connect the 125 firewall bit to the 132 engine bit so it rotated without fouling or binding while also pulling though the full arc required between idle and WOT. Proof of a Weber powered vehicle: My custom rod is between white plastic swivel behind the spring and the black metal arm (which is actually connected to/part of the go pedal all the way back to the otherside of the engine) Spent quite a while tutuuing with the mix and idle and could not get it right, decided to check the timing and putting my hand on the dizzy, got a nice HT shock and did the Jitterbug. Still gives me the willies putting my hand down there even with the car off. Dizzy must have been chasing a trace in the cap, so pulled it out, and got my box of spare dizzys from the lock up. Ended up using a later model one (on the right right) as the the couple i had of the slightly newer version (centre) were all a bit rubbish, and all the OE ones (left) all had huge end play due to a missing collar (missing on all 5 of these dizzies ive got, so i never picked up on it),which would have been messing up all sorts of shit inside the cap and the advance. The later model one (actually from an X19) fits and runs and is very steady on the timing light - the old one hunted all over the shop. I will probably also get a Pertronix Ignitor system rather than a new set of points. Also repainted my 14"x6" 131R Steels and got some new 195x60 tyres I likey. So does this guy who came out for a look: However even shiny new sports shoes and an appreciative audience could not convince this cantankerous elderly italian gentleman to run quite right. So we assumed the position again: After advancing the timing a wee bit (you can/t trust those timing marks? ) it seemed to run a bit better, pulling well till about 4000rpm (but sometimes 5000) and running out of puff. Befoare advancing a bit it always ran out of puff at 4000rpm and took longer to get there too. Ive also swapped from the Lucas coil i'd replaced the original MM Resistor one to this beefy Magnetti Marelli one, but that didnt do anything much either. I was going to put the original resistor one on, but i dont feel it will achieve anything much: I now suspect its the carb as it surges and hunts around, runs sweet then wont idle, that kind of thing. I supect some dreg in there somewhere 1/2 blocking something up, and only sometimes. A number of hearty 'Italian tune up' runs didnt seem to fix it either. So Ill need to take off the carb again for another clean out + an air blow, check the jet sizing ( i heave acouple of spares as well) and try order a new rebuild kit for it this week. Its a bit frustrating as while its all legal, its still not really relible enough to take very far. It has also started leaking a bit of oil, either from the front of the Gbox or the rear of the engine. Anyway, at least it looks really nice on the driveway I also have a side draft manifold and the rams which might solve my fueling issues good and proper, but i'd want a decent set of crabs to put on, so that will have to just wait.

ahh, K-betripping, then you have never experienced the joy of owning a FIAT and their Fully Italian Alternative Take on everything. oh, also what Mikuni says, in the first sentence. Second tho wouldnt quite work - see Toms photos - the top of the spring is quite far below the top of the shock, and the bottom shock mount is just a bolt though the bottom wishbone, which are not that beefy, IMO not beefy enough to take the concntrated forces from a coil over bottom mount . Even this full tilt tarmac rally lada uses std spring mounts, and these guys knows what theyre doing (video is worth a watch): (note also reinforced wishbones and use of spring compressors ) http://www.turbo124.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=8659

dont bother with resetting, like you say because of the long spring and low rate, under a lot of commpression at std height, it wont hold any weight after resetting - it will be lower, but softer too ask me how i know also, $1700 can gtfo - go to pick-a-part mang, and spend the change on twin sideys, a roof rack, widened steels, and some $30 kybs from here: http://www.autoricambi.us/cgi/commerce. ... egory=SU03 you might even have enough left over for a crate o' quarts to go up on the rack

like i say it might be balls, i only know about 125s, and they are a bit different suspension wise and mines not even that sorted! but this guy is doing it right http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.c ... 992&page=4 this is a good 'where to check for rust' thread (other than errywuurr) and how to fix it: http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.c ... 251&page=3 but this is the real shizz (turn google translate on) http://lowclub.com.ua/ http://www.onlydropped.com/

this is what i understand, but it may be all balls: fiat running gear (ie twin cam) is a bolt in (pretty much). these are based on the 124 series which had coil springs in the rear, same as on 124 Coupe as well, so there is quite alot of aftermarket stuff out there for them. However the susp was designed and set up from factory to ride higher than the fiats due to rough russian roads/snow/fat babushkas so lowering to bumps = not really that low. Also lowering makes them handle like shit, (moving wishone mounts etc etc required to fix geometry esp if you are looking to go real low) but they do look 100x better. most lowered 124/210x ive seen use coil springs rather than installing coil overs as the strut top mounts (rather than the OEM spring mounts) would be taking all the suspension stresses and cars weight, and are not that strong as they were never designed for it. On the front, for eg the lower weiht/stresses would all be on the lower shock mounting bolt. can be done but poss not worth it? You would have to change so much to get them to work properly. Just chuck some one way adjusties at it. If the coils are 100m ID then toyota estima rear srings will fit - easy to remove from an estima, plenty being wrecked and have a higher spring rate. Niva springs are also an option and come in a range of rates (colour coded) you will need an internal spring compressor to get the fronts out tho, as they mount on the bottom wishbone, but have the upper wishbone around them :\

swish, was also on my pine/watchlist, so i thought you might appreciate these

yus! But will you look at that smug face: had to get a new exhaust and install windscreen filler strips to obtain the ok, which i was expecting, but otherwise testing garage was very happy/impressed. Car also looks better with the extra window chrome. New exhaust is 2" from factory headers to a big dogleg muffler (not quite straight though) before the diff and a straight though 'mini cooper' after the diff. Has a 2 1/2 inch tip which has yet to grow on me, but im sort of surprised as its about the same sound as my cobbled together job, if a little more rev happy. Ill take a photo of it soon (before it gets all dirty) as they did a pretty nice job. Only concern is it might be a bit close to the diff. Have been pottering around in it this weekend + the round trip to town for Wof and back and forwards to sort out screen and exhaust showed there are a few teething issues still to sort out. The car enjoys a spiritied drive and pulls strongly. However, I sense it has more to give. The to do list * Wheel alighnment - my eyelighnment seems to be pretty good actually, and car is tight and predictable, new bushes etc probably help alot. Only issue is that the steering is now very heavy esp when slow, but that will be the new found negative camber, and getting used to rolling just a leetle bit before turning the wheel. * related issue, need to trim back the steeling column plastics a mm or 2, as the steering wheel boss rubs on it and makes a very disconcerting noise. * carburettori - the original solex seems to run ok, but there is a strong petrol smell in the engine bay after engine is off and seems to have hot start issues. Bad photo but you can see wetness on the manifold and carb body There is also hesitation at load but could also be an ignition/electrical/timing issue Ideal solution is twin 40 sidedrafts, but as ive blown the budget on the exhaust, second best option is a Weber DMS from a 1600 TC 132 which i have already. Only the linkage rotates the opposite way, and requires a fuel return, but i have the correct accellorator linkage from a 132 that will work, and a fuel sender in the tank already with a return from the same car. Will need to run the line tho. * will reinvestigate ignition coil - am currently running an unballasted coil setup after previously misdiagnosing PO wiring debacles, so i should check that the points are not burning out/causing hesitation etc, and try running with a properly wired up factory system. * engine developed a worrying metal on metal rattle that increased and decreased in line with revs, and voltometer was very jumpy (13-15V). Traced the rattle to a missing (not loose!) lower alternator nut and 120mm bolt. Alt was held on by top adjustment bolt only. That fixed the rattle. Voltometer is now less twitchy but still not solid. I have a new solid state external regulator, and the alt was refurbed as well but there are a couple of things that it could be/should do anyway: * considering also obtaining an AU?? Falcoon alternator as a 95Amp more or less 'boltin' modern upgrade to the 40A extrnally regulated OEM job if i stumble across one at Pick-a-Part. * Water pump pulley - is installed behind mounting face to obtain correct offset when i conveted to electric fan, but ive never been that happy with it. The front face of the pulley mount boss has a wee hub to centre the pully which isnt present on the rear of the boss AND i had to cut holes for the puller when i removed it once before, which bent it, and so the belt pulley is both not centred on the pump shaft and bent/unbalanced - this is shaking the alternator (hence loss of bolt and rattle + wonkly output?). Its also no good for the water pump. I have a spare pulley that i will get pressed on but with the mount reversed. But this also means removing the radiator... * Ignition switch is dodgy - wobbling the key has all kinds of bizzare electrical side effects, however adding Relays to the headlights and ignition circuits (which runs all load for these though the switch contacts!) + a clean and fiddle should resolve most problems im thinking. This ignition has a bit of sentimental value as i managed to cut a new key for it myself so id like to keep it (and im cheap). * Under sill trim clips - still searching and pondering alternatives. * Clutch/gearbox - seems ok, not slipping but there is a thrust bearing whine in neutral/peadal out, and GB is very grubby/oily. I think also that the driveshaft might be a bit out of balance as the stick is wobbly (increasing with speed) and rear has a bit of a wheel blalce wobble feel at same time. Could be the pillow block or spider i suppose too. Anyway, all To do when engine removed for engine bay tidy up. 5 Speed Bolt in GB suggestions welcomed. * have a tow bar to clean up and put on for bike racks and a roof rack to pick up and make fit as well. These along with its massive boot will make it an ideal family missioner. I also had a breakage - the manual throttle control cable (needed when cold or for driving without legs) which is actually a stiff wire, snapped just inside the engine bay at a kink. So what else but #8 wire? works better than it ever did!

Finally got all the bits needed to finish reassembling the front, (bearings and radius rods) thought i had been sent the wrong wheel bearings or had odd hubs (woudnt be the first time) but i realised after a wee rage that the outer cases were still well stuck in the hub so no wonder the new ones were 'too big' as i dont have a good drift and i didnt want to mess up or score the hubs ive cleaned and repacked the originals but used the new nuts that came with the bearing kit, which is all was really needed anyway as the existing bearings are still in good nick. tis all now complete with the wheels back on, just an 'eyelignment' (have about 10deg toe out at the mo!) and some paint touch ups on the flat at the bottom of the sills that i missed while its on the stands, and a few other chips and so hopefully will be on the road (or at least have a list of what needs doing ) by the weekend, all going well. Fingers crossed... Semi related pic to make update not all lame: i have rims same as those ^^^ that need sandblasting and repainting (and new tyres), which is what ill roll eventually, but this time i dont think ill black out the 'iron cross' bits, much as per this rotten potatoplop:

bahhh! just realised this is on tomorrow not friday. there goes my imaginary deadline for woffage (hopefully). next time fo sho

Meanwhile, have been putting my nice new shiney and competent 'jonnesway' ball joint splitter from BNT to good use after work this week in prep for this long weekend (nice one JC ). purchase price was 2x stanley one, but has done as many joints as 3x of the other ones, so thats actually (todate) 66% cheaper and 300% better quality in the long run. have removed all front suspension gubbins, which are now cleaned, sandblasted, repainted and rebushed etc ready to go back in: everything, except... the upper wishbones which the mechanic next door to the mrs work didnt get onto rebushing before COB thursday fair enough, he had paying customers who wanted their cars fixed for easter so ive only got this far with re-assembly: only the upper wishbones (obviously) and radius arms to go back in and then everything needs to have an eye guage alignment and be tourqued up. The front radius/castor arms are notoriously hard to remove on these, as they never ever get adjusted/greased or replaced after leaving the factory and the big 24mm nuts on M16 threads just rust togther over time. My radius arm removal method (grind opposite corners off the front nut (= less material to remove, i measured) then cold chisel to split the nut) was appropriate in the end. I refined it on the second one and this ended up being the better condition anyway. They have a steel spacer to protect the thread and prevent the bushes being over tightended and this was rusted solid to the first arm. unfortunately i took the rear nut off on the first one so i will never get a new one back on over the rusted bit without stripping it even if i could wind the bugger on. On the second one i only cut the front nut off, so the rear one can stay where it is. Ill order 2 new ones, but i could get away with just one if thats all that can be sourced. so, anway had to make 2 new spacers in the mean time, what to do... handle of a busted trolley jack that i knew 'would come in handy one day' perfect ID and OD ran a file down the inside too, and perhaps saved myself about $8 in parts. result. however, without the wishbones I cannot complete the task and get it on its wheels again, and i have to order more parts anyway: - 2x radius arms (hopefully can get some in nz, otherwise will get some drift/hot rod adjustable type ones), and - 2x front wheel bearing kits for good measure 'while im there' - and still to get the upper wishbones back with new bushes in (which will need blasting and painting) so will hopefully be going in for a wof this month some time, fingers crossed, but unlikley to ready in time for next weekend

gots me a nice 'jonesway' ball joint sperator from BNT - just from looking at it its obvious its much better quality, and, have popped all the remaining 6 joints without so much as a scratch on it Was twice the price of the supercheap one but i bet i dont need to take it back three times/ever.

swapped BJ splitter for another - Dude wes not going to not swap it as the receipt was more than a year old, so i made him ring head office and had to unleash the bush lawyer till they did. (Not fit for purpose - what good is a ball joint splitter that cant split ball joints!, besides no wear on the teeth etc - id hardly been thrashing it) Anyway, managed to pop two out (one literally popped out the garage door!) before both teeth broke off on the third. Fuckers were in there good, but thats what they are designed for right? Was using two hammer trick as well to make it last, but the metal they are made from is yuk - its not hard tool steel (like they should be) but dirty diecast shite that reminds me of when me and my bro used to 'smash-up derby' our Matchbox cars. Cheap chinese slag. So only 6 more BJ's to go. Sigh. Will get my $ back tomorrow and order a decent one from BNT i think, unless anyone has another suggestion. So, I do not reccomend Stanley Tie Rod End Seperators to anyone, thats 3 for about 8 ball joints seperated.

yeah, will try swapping it once more, and do the double hammer trick at the same time, too avoid winding it up too much - ive got 12 to do! but if it breaks again im getting my $ back for a good one + throwing it though the front window of supercrap. was hoping to the suspension all out, disassembled and cleaned up ready for rebushing this week, with an eye to making it to nats, but this shitty tool made out of stale bread has put me back a day and a half of under car time --- FUUUUUUUUU!

started the removal process on the front suspension today, but then on the very first (of 12 ball joints/tie rod ends): arrrrrrrhhhhhhhhhhgggggg!!!!!!! lucky ive still got this : and yep, I need a replacement for my replacement. Stanley tools are not what they used to be (Supercheap ), so I think im going to get my money back on this one. You can see from the wear on the face that ive not exactly been thrashing it. Suggestions on good ball joint seperators?