VAGRANT

HI there. i've been having probs with getting my carbs running right.... someone else set them up and im in the process of stripping them.. to see what setup ive got.. The carbs are twin 40 dcoe's and their on a toyota 2t-g 1600... the cams have been worked and the pistons are only slightly oversized. not sure of cams (i've lost the spec sheet...) currently the engine just gurgles under 3000 rpm but then takes off after 3000. The carbs did have 34mm chokes and ive got hold of some 30's to try.. Have you got any further tips?

a lot of alternators and external regulators need the power supply through from your warning light to 'excite' the alt into life..... might be as simple as a new bulb in your warning light, but i would be looking at fixing your warning light as that could fix your whole problem!

no computer at all.. has hall effect (or similar) triggering a module that triggers coil. dyno sheet in km/h not rpm but is very jumpy looking below 80km ..... could be gear changes...unsure.

Its been a while but i think i have 30 or 32 mm venturi's had thought about possible over porting and was going to try ram tubes to speed up the air intake. Not much room between carb mouth and right strut tower. i imagine if i were to adjust idle mixture screws by small incrimints at a time then i should be able to make adjustments reasonable evenly......??

2t-geu was a later version of the celica 2t-b engine. original was a push rod 1600 2t-geu is the same block but with yamaha dohc head on it and efi. Carbs were balanced adjusted and tuned on a dyno by a local tuning company..

I have a 2t-geu with efi stripped off. Running 2 40mm dcoe webers, Electronic ignition and worked cams, ported and polished head. has a facet fuel pump and have had the carbs dyno tuned. Haven't got adjustable cam gears. engine work was done about 7 years ago and the project has never been fully finished. partially due to lost interest due to running issue! Have recently renewed my enthusiasim but need to fix 'Gurggle'. When i use even just partial throttle below 3000 rpm the engine just gurgles. once over 3000 ish rpm theres no problem! it revs out faster than i can change gears. but thats not what i want!!!! thinking maybe its cam timing issue and i need to spend money on adjustable cam gears but over and above that... ive lost original paper work for the cam grind etc... Any thoughts?

connect a headlight bulb to 2 wires so that if you put power on one wire and earth on the other the light glows brightly. You've just made a short finder!!!! now plug the 2 wires of your short finder into the 2 terminals where the fuse normally goes (1 wire to each terminal) the light will glow bright when you have a short to ground. when you get rid of (or disturb) the short, the light will glow dim! (keep the bulb away from material..... hang it from your rear vision mirror for example.!!)

a fully charged battery at rest should be 12.6v!!! if its high it could be just coming down to 12.6 after being charged by alt.. r100's comment earlier about charging voltage 13.8 - 14.4 is correct. any higher than 14.5 would indicate a fault which could be due to a faulty battery or alt. If your alt charges higher than 14.5 you'll start blowing light bulbs and your battery will turn into a balloon. P.S. warning light staying on while the engine is running would indicate alt fault (or regulator if external) or slipping belt. Or slim chance the wiring has shorted out. Definetly need to check volts while engine running (13.8- 14.5) may need slight rev to kick alt into life. then check with lights on to make sure the voltage stays about the same.... means regulator doing its job.

Hey hows things? Just new on here.. ive got an old project that i started 10 years ago but left sitting for the last 6 years. trying to get back into it now and was after some help and advice. Its a '73 ta22 and i was looking at your build up page and wanted to know about the wing mirrors in the first pic. Are they original off the 23 or did you get them somewhere.... basically , i want some!