mjrstar

in a mini The en1 civic is the dizzy to use. Its a similar to cooper s advance curve. Look for max total advance of around 30-32 degrees.

Not quite how i wanted it to run but it was tough to keep the room at the rear for the dump pipe.. i would do it a bit differently next time.. still needs a tidy up with the die grinder....

the other issue with the head swap will be the cooling system, as the thermosat would normally mount off the back of the head, current plan is to mod the spare mx5 thermostat housing and remote mount it.. i have learnt that turbo on the drivers side is a headache - detials in the starlet thread. and the late model head looks cooler too, i have not seen this particular conversion done before?

Me too.. should be able to sort something out by the end of the weekend.. i really needed that number 4 runner to tuck forward as much as i could to give maximum dump pipe room.. Factory CAS is installed at the moment, not much chance of removing it with the engine in though.. i guess i could recess the firewall a bit but have been trying to avoind that at this stage.

Cooler mounting looks nice and solid.. Keen on some specific details for the ECU conversion, specifically the trigger for the cas, as this is on my to do list for the mazda.. maybe i can mod either the mazda cas or the later model evo one i have...

The main issue with the head swap is the extra oil drainbacks which will need to be filled.. but more about that later.. there will probably be some tinkering with the cam drive slot depending on what cam angle sensor is used.. the late model one won't work as it uses a cas and a crank trigger too.. anyway.. I spent some time in the shed today after work.. This is how the turbo is going to sit... it's going to make for an oddball dump pipe but should be able to squeeze it in there somewhere...

It won't be able to retard ignition to save the pistons if the engine starts to knock if it doesn't have any knock detection... My 1G is on song at around 3800rpm with a single scroll which is fine as it pulls strongly to a touch over 7500rpm. The ideal turbo i reckon for good response and top end ability would be something like what will be finding it's way on the mazda which is a evo 9 based TD05HR with TD06-20G wheels (the same as my evo already has) which i will be doing to the starlet if i have any issues with the current single scroll turbo.

Will keep the 1.8 diff in mind, but i'm pretty happy with the ratio selection of the evo diff in relation to proposed tyre diameter and the nissan gear ratios..

that would be some nasty torsen unit wouldn't it? not a decent plate lsd.. Manifold sorted..Minus some of the unnecessary ugly brackets.. Knocked in the balance shaft bearings in and laid on a coat of paint...

The sloppy diff mounts are in the bin. The diff will be solid mounted, also Making new floor sections for the gearbox x-member, so the driveline should have a pretty solid feel. Trying to avoid custom axles to keep costs down and aid in ease of replacement of parts..

The majority of the failures i have heard of have been due to soft mounting bushes / flex / "axle tramp" whatever you want to call it destroying the housings rather than internal failures due to inherent weakness, this is the early style case (not a newer AYC case) and been fitted whith probably the strongest of rear hats. Sure there is a chance it'll quit, but hoping the ISF of the gears will improve longevity. Maybe there is a better (and still cost effective) plate lsd option out there which has been overlooked? Plan B is probably an R200 diff, but time will tell I guess...

Not too keen on the mx5 axles to be honest.. The evo ones I have are a touch larger with more splines, it needs to take a beating without the fear of parts failing.. where do I buy shorts bits of straight steam tube.. probably 3 or 4 bits at 100mm long or so..

hopefully i can sort this lot out in to the beginnings of a manifold... well once i get my gas bottle back. that SCH 40 is thick stuff, i suspect SCH 30 or 10 would probably also do the trick without falling apart.. oh well

my 1gge+t was running 20 psi boost without any dramas, larger injectors turbo link ecu and most importantly a decent tune.. no idea how well things will behave on the factory ecu.. the 1G is a bloody solid engine, mine sure took a beating at numerous track days on 16-18 psi and around 245kw at the wheels...

Which FC rx7 stuff are we talking, wheel flanges or complete hub carriers etc??

Plan is to run the evo diff and axles with the subframe widened to suit. I still need to look in to the rear hub arrangement to find a suitable match for the evo spline.. Also looking to change to 4x114 stud pattern all round..

Some progress from saturday Not too sure the ali tape will hold much boost...Also obtained the gto 4 pots and discs for 50 bucks on the tard Next plan will be for some weld on the inlet manifold and i'll try get hold of some bends etc.. to piece together a manifold for the hot side..

That's the one Phil, although I'm sure no-one doubted your ability to recognise mitsi parts.. Also box, and the good block back from the engine re-conditioners - still in Auckland at this stage. Sounds like the adaptor plate should be nailed at the laser cutters next week...

Err.... That's just the factory rocker cover from an evo / you knew that and failed to use sarcasm font? Also plan to de-red the car at some stage..

This is what happens when you are not hungover on new years day... Don't see it? How about now... Fairly happy to have the old engine and box out and the new one dummied up by myself in under 3hrs.. Should be room to sort out the coolant lines at the back.. The plan was to build a custom high mount exhaust manifold, the factory manifold is a no-go. Although looks like plenty of room for the inlet manifold to come together, and should be able to recycle the throttle cable with a simple new bracket...

My 1g had a decent leak from the rear of the rocker covers. May not be your problem but worth a look..

Car went out for what is likely to be its final hoon with the wheezy 1600... seems a tad nicer on the new bushes even without a proper alignment.. Sorted a poverty spec 255 walbro for 60 bucks.. for extra laziness it comes mounted to an mx5 tank plate and comes complete with fuel level sender etc.. Also have the makings of the new portion of the underbody which will be the pick up points for the crossmember.. it'll need some grinder love to make it in to 2 bits but should turn out sweet.. And the start of the front portion of the sump... Some of you may recognise the heavier version of this part?

My evo is making 230 wheel kw on 2.5 inch piping. I would say anything over 350kw you may want to go a little larger.

So we have covered bush... But what about flange? Also Denso injectors.

these guys do a different colour coding http://www.energysuspension.com/energy-tech/frequently-asked-questions.htm a set of the black ones have found their way into the mazzda - graphite seems like a reasonable way to impregnate a bit of extra lubricating property.. also the grease supplied was way stickier than cv grease, was kind of like an ultra sticky Vaseline consistency..