mjrstar

With rubber... Still need to get some 225's for the rear..

Yeah 9s for the rear and 8s on the front.. 0 offset for both.Probably could have run 8s all round.

Pm'd Cheers.

More reason to get the 4x114 conversion sorted..

Id be interested in taking a look. I guess i could machine the discs off..

Is that bs not all 4x110? / can i find one of these at pick-a-part..

Ok, Bit if a long shot but.... I'm looking to do a 4x114 conversion on the front of the mazda which has a 28mm stub. I am looking for a replacement hub from somethign else which is 4x114 and runs on a 28mm shaft. it looks like 89-90 mirage MIGHT be a goer, I had a browse at PAP the other day and though Primera rear hubs might hve been the go but alas they are a 30mm stub and a 1mm adaptor sleeve seems a little uncool.. At this stage the rear should come together reasonably easy.. more on that later So yeah no point in suggesting i redrill the current hubs as the 4x100 is hanging out right near the edge of the hub, and adaptor / spacers are not my style.. If you have: some spare 4x114 non driven hubs handy can you whip some verniers over in inner bearing bore, maybe cressida or sigma or something else from a RWD front hub or rear from a FWD would do the trick, or if you have replaced bearing on your 4x114 equipped car and they were 28mm let me know!! In the mean time i'll continue to trawl PAP to find a suitable donor. Cheers Matt

You didn't mention what your goal/budget is..

Have you looked at building up a good oem core with oversize wheels rather than a kinugawa unit? I know which i would rather have..

I run a evo 9 Td05 hr but with td06 20g wheels and 10.5 ex housing and its great.. It made a solid 230 kw at 18 psi and had previously only been road tuned. Mazda will get the same turbo... Oh an it makes full boost at around 3200 rpm. Unsure of how subaru turbos compare sorry.

Won't be tripping over this shit any more..

pull trigger, measure how much comes out in 6 seconds, multiply by 10 and you will know in mm/minute it's feeding this will give you an actual detail if it's feeding too fast or if it's just a hunch..

Incorrect diameter drive wheel fitted possibly? although you should be able to turn feed right down to almost nothing if it's working corretly?

Plan is 15x9's with 225 semi slicks, and the plate lsd, all other traction control will be operated by right foot, i can't see this being any worse than the solid axle setup in the starlet, surely IRS and wider (and new) rear rubber should actually improve the situation, power wise probably 260-270 wheel KW at maybe 24 psi but then dropped back to around 16-18 psi and 220-230 kw to make it a tad more driveable (guesstamation) at this stage..but hey if it for some odd reason only wants to make 200 wheel kw that's enough to create a smile in a lightweight car.. It should make power in more of a linear fashion with boost coming on earlier than the starlet.. also not too sure i understand your concern with said traction issues... isn't that the entire point of this sort of machine, i mean it's not exactly a toyota prius???

No real need. The ported housing and internal gate works well at 20 psi on my evo. Plus i would need 2 externals to run twin scroll which is $$ better spent elsewhere..

I had another obscure link which i cant find again. I am sure i posted it somewhere on OS before... Edit.. http://home.modemss.brisnet.org.au/~jmiller/wolseley/tuning.html

Too hot for work in the shed today... Managed to get this all but finished..

http://www.starchak.ca/tech/pdfs/hitachi.pdf I found the honda dizzy easiest to get hold of...but there are other options.. It goes well although my car could do with a bit more fuel from 6500 rpm onwards.

in a mini The en1 civic is the dizzy to use. Its a similar to cooper s advance curve. Look for max total advance of around 30-32 degrees.

Not quite how i wanted it to run but it was tough to keep the room at the rear for the dump pipe.. i would do it a bit differently next time.. still needs a tidy up with the die grinder....

the other issue with the head swap will be the cooling system, as the thermosat would normally mount off the back of the head, current plan is to mod the spare mx5 thermostat housing and remote mount it.. i have learnt that turbo on the drivers side is a headache - detials in the starlet thread. and the late model head looks cooler too, i have not seen this particular conversion done before?

Me too.. should be able to sort something out by the end of the weekend.. i really needed that number 4 runner to tuck forward as much as i could to give maximum dump pipe room.. Factory CAS is installed at the moment, not much chance of removing it with the engine in though.. i guess i could recess the firewall a bit but have been trying to avoind that at this stage.

Cooler mounting looks nice and solid.. Keen on some specific details for the ECU conversion, specifically the trigger for the cas, as this is on my to do list for the mazda.. maybe i can mod either the mazda cas or the later model evo one i have...

The main issue with the head swap is the extra oil drainbacks which will need to be filled.. but more about that later.. there will probably be some tinkering with the cam drive slot depending on what cam angle sensor is used.. the late model one won't work as it uses a cas and a crank trigger too.. anyway.. I spent some time in the shed today after work.. This is how the turbo is going to sit... it's going to make for an oddball dump pipe but should be able to squeeze it in there somewhere...

It won't be able to retard ignition to save the pistons if the engine starts to knock if it doesn't have any knock detection... My 1G is on song at around 3800rpm with a single scroll which is fine as it pulls strongly to a touch over 7500rpm. The ideal turbo i reckon for good response and top end ability would be something like what will be finding it's way on the mazda which is a evo 9 based TD05HR with TD06-20G wheels (the same as my evo already has) which i will be doing to the starlet if i have any issues with the current single scroll turbo.