BlownCorona

fix that cam sensor and sell it.

I somewhat blame the shocking work on the chch roads too, But ultimately its bad maintenance

Complete ball joint failure. Don't rely on wofs meaning your shit is all good folks! That said, this can't have been good at its last wof. They don't make cars this tough anymore, the weight of the car is on the fender and no bending at all. New wheels all good too, hopefully the tire is alright. Will change both lower ball joints and check all other components. Could have been worse at speed, pretty happy with how calm I remained with minimal control over direction.

Tonights effort. engine fully disassembled, except the head. everything looks good, its clearly had coolant in the oil. the bearings are fairly worn, but the surfaces look primo. im piking the wear on the bearings has been from the water. Nothing very obvious on the head gasket though other than being quite brittle and shitty. its had a rebuild before so that could be a contributor now onto cleaning and sourcing new parts.

this mornings effort. getting on a major roll. will start engine dissasembly tonight once the kids are in bed and the wife has gone to work.

still angry got stuck in engine is ready to pull once i get my crane back fuck this car. atleast the new engine will actually make power/not surprised this has happend this engine came out of a paddock what initially started as a suspicion the gasket had failed, due to some weird pressurization going on in the radiator, was then confirmed today when it started hemorrhaging out the overflow tank, and on closer inspection there now looks to be water in the oil, so i expect a full blown gasket failure it what i will find. aleast i know this car like the back of my hand and can get the engine out super quick, but thats the cheap part.....

2 days untill cert. Took it into work today to give it a good cleaning and degrease the engine. Blown head gasket, its pumping its coolant out the overflow tank. Rang Ian and cancelled the cert, he was really good about it, even at such late notice, I think he knew it was a genuine blindside and not me being slack. So gutted, so very gutted. This will now mean plans I had for the future to rebuild the engine and add intercooler ect will now need to be brought forward. Which takes time I don't have. Hopeing to atleast use the anger to pull the motor out this weekend.

fuck yeah that looks awesome. shame its not weather proof, would be an awesome front door step light

This one really only looks rough, because the clear coat is peeling. I've not found any serious rust Worst I can see is some poking out of the windscreen seal. I'll have the glass popped out for paint anyway and either fix it myself or get it fixed when the rear gaurds are sorted. Plus I'll paint it myself, also have a panel beater that we use alot for work teed up to properly fix the rear gaurds for very cheap.

the car now also has the correct size tires on it, meaning the speedo is now accurate, and the warning bell doesnt drive me insane at 100kmh. the car is about 20mm higher off the ground, but looks lower due to much less guard gap, previously i probably could have fit my head in the rear arch.

a care package from japan arrived. the no working on this quickly went out the window when i saw my new wheels yesterday. scored some 16x7.5 et4 Epsilon Ragunas out of japan, for not the cheapest in the world, but probably half their value in NZ. was also a set of 5. haven't decided if the 5th will get a tire mounted and act as a spare or if i mount it to the wall and hang my airline off it. also bought a cruise control spec HKB boss kit. i expected this to just include a wire pigtail for cruise buttons, but it actually has buttons built in. super clean. the lables are wrong, but it looks like i can just swap the buttons around. finally an uncracked stereo surround. i still need a bunch more plastics, but this parcel was getting worryingly big, as it was it got seperated into two parcels. which also meant it slipped in customs under the tax threshold. score. i also swapped back to the stock clutched supercharger pulley, very small performance drop, clearly the party pulley on there was only making heat and not power. plus fuel economy has improved, and thats more important on this car being my daily and much more of a cruiser than a performance car. cant wait for this to be panel and painted.

balancing carbs can be gotten close with a piece of hose into the intake and the other end into your ear, and balance the sound you hear. when i had bike carbs i also bench set them up with a piece of mig wire as a feeler gauge between the throttle throat and blade.

Certs booked - 6th of May. Are you meant to feel this nervous? it should be fine, its not a massive list of mods and its not making huge power. anxious and excited at the same time, this has been a long time coming. nearly 10 years of ownership, i initially bought this car as something to learn on.

for bronze wheels i highly recommend the bmw paint code 'A32'i had a paint shop mix me up some paint and i used a compressor ect. but you can probably get it made into an aerosol too. i did my old s4 wheels bronze with that code. i did a gloss clear, but a matte or satin clear could be applied depending on what you want.

MUCH more success today! shortened up the brake pushrod and made some changes to how its retained. to further shorten up its length inside the master cylinder. bled all four wheels and it just seemed to go right today. pedal felt great. just how id hoped it would with the particular valving id choosen. the car doesn't have a booster due to space issues. but i didn't want a rock hard pedal like a race car. the valving i chose gave more mechanical advantage over the slave cylinders at the "cost" of longer and a bit spongier pedal throw. which is also exactly what i wanted. the car brakes just as good if not better than the original boosted brakes with incredible control over the brake pressure. you can lock the rear brakes up with moderate pressure, which isnt actually a good thing, however the fuel tank is dead empty and i limped back to the garage ending up on 19psi of fuel pressure, so itll probably stop doing that with a bit of weight, otherwise a simple 2 port bias valve will sort it right out! it feels like the fronts would lock up if you really stood on it harder than you probably ever would which is about right. very very happy as this has been one extremely long headache and im over the moon to have it finally working how i wanted it.

would the vehicle weight, especially under heavy braking not force the to their max neg camber? or is the clamping friction enough?

I met Julians wife when I journeyed up to Carterton and bought a chevy silverado for work from them. She seems real nice and switched on and I assume her husband is too. Awesome oldschool workshop at any rate!

Ahh I see, thought it was just two normal bench seats. A couple of decent high back seats would be the go in that case.

2009ish Dodge ram rear seat be what you want? if your ever in chch im sure i could score you one out of one of the wrecks at work.

from memory i also cracked the bleeder on the side of the master to see what happens and the wheels released. but i cant remember for 100% certainty. anyway since its just a master cylinder bolted straight to the firewall (and a bunch of extra bracing) theres only one pushrod. i had a look at it before i had to pack up for the day/week and im pretty sure it wasnt holding pressure on, non the less i had the opportunity to take about 5mm off the end of it no worries, haven't had a chance to fit it but will do, and see if that fixes the issue first up. i think ill also recruit someone to help me bleed the brakes the old fashioned way, i borrowed a compressed air bleeder from work and im not that sure it works very well. it sure sucked the fluid through but the bubbled seemed to never stop. i miss the days when this car was my one and only daily. and to think, i had delusions of sorting the brakes today and trying to book in a cert on my day off on friday. HA! day off probably wont even be spent working on the car either!

can you snap off the opposite tooth to the missing tooth and tell the ecu the sensor is as crank speed with a 15-1 trigger. thats what ive done with my dizzy mounted sensor (12 tooth hall effect wheel with two oposing missing teeth). unsure if 15 teeth is any better for the maths though. HOWEVER. i also have a 36-1 crank mounted trigger wheel waiting to go on when i also change the superchrager pulley for more boost (is doest fit with the current pully) because im 99% most of my shitty idle and roughish cruise is down to all the backlash in the dizzy setup and all the tricks made to get it to run thinking its got a crank trigger.

the more i think about it, the more that seems wrong, the cylinder should be doing work the moment the piston starts to move yeah? maybe its a clearance problem after all.

im pretty sure it does. its all custom made so could be fucked up. but when wound right in to give as much clearance you have to press the pedal nearly to the floor before you feel anything engage in the cylinder. theres a possibility that its still not enough clearance though. im just not sure how to tell for sure without pulling the rod out, shortening it, and possibly finding out that its now too short and im back at square one. its several hours work to get the master in and out.

Well i spoke too soon. im currently trying to bleed up the brakes, which in itself is going horribly. but the problem with the wheels binding up with pressure from the brake system not releasing when you let off the pedal is still there. Does anyone have any ideas why this would be happening? its a brand new master cyl, and when i crack the brake lines the wheels immediately go back to rolling very freely, takes a pump or two and they are back to dragging, but not locked on like the brakes were pressed. im really sick of working on this car, all i want to do is drive it and these endless boring jobs with non stop problems is really hammering my motivation. couple with only getting about an hour a week to do anything on it.

The suspected residual valve that shouldn't be there. This valve helps hold positive pressure on drum brake slave cylinders. But is not required for disk brakes and causes slight pressure to stay on. Have removed and even though they need bleeding, can tell its fixed the issue