BlownCorona

are the oversize holes still central? could you have some stepped dowels made up?

its been a while since i was dealing with measuring HT leads. but from memory you cant simply measure their resistance, rather youd need to measure the 'Z' or Impedance which is a combination of resistance, capacitance and inductance- easier said than done. regardless, the old boy at Canterbury Auto Electric on waterloo has a masters or phD or similar thesis on spark plugs & leads and he/his team would be the man to both measure and make recommendations.

"starting my own foundry" is about as far removed from abandoned project as you could get! Nice.

it looks like that spoiler was designed to have a thick rubber gasket under the leading edge? i bet it would look better with one. cut nice and flush to suit.

good call, This is probably the most badass project on the site, keen for an update, or given the last few years, just confirmation it hasn't been abandoned!

i have a cube shifter on my w50 in the corona. it has a nylon (i think) bush. apparently they can transmit more transmission noise into the cabin, though i never found that. im assuming those with that issue have the above steel bush. on a related note. the cube shifter is awesome. looks like theve gone up in price, but i paid about $250 and am very happy.

The true oracle.

a bunch more progress on the engine build. mostly related to preparing the various parts i've collected and making them fit where they sometimes wern't meant to. First up, have the 20r pistons machined to accommodate the valves. ill find out this weekend if they are correct. The still need the fresh edges broken but i am very happy with the job done by Proturn Engineering here in Christchurch. Then i set about fitting the auxilary bearings, turned up a couple of press tools to pull them into place. took my time but went trouble free. Shaft dummy fitted and smooth as butter the crank too. Still need tidy up the edges on the painted parts. Then, now that the bottom end is all but ready, and i'm going to have the whole lot balanced, i needed to finally fit up the trigger wheel i made like 4 years ago. I parted off the unused front pulley and turned a spigot from its remains. with a matching cut on the trigger. once i look up if position is important ill tap mounting threads in the meat under the remaining pulley. Ill need to think about making a cam angle sensor because i want to run proper sequential fuel and ignition, i think ill just cut up a dizzy and make something nice and low profile. Getting close to actually assembling for good which is very exciting.

why does the AI call the the rotory corona a "Corona" does it no longer believe it is one?. the AI knows you put mazda parts in there matt, it knows what you did and it will not forget.

i just came back here to correct myself on that, yeah you would just tune around the change in flowrate with VE table. i guess its only important for boost pressure where you might actually stiffle the flow enough to run out of injector unless you ramp up the pressure to compensate.

in the same way that boost lowers the pressure differential, vacuum would increase it. so unless your ECU can compensate for this, a referenced FPR would be required?

sounds like a monopoly. its a computer system, it simply does not cost that much to run. the exec team however needs to gets paid.. 2019 and 2018 ceo salary data.

most of the data plate was worn away but i was able to figure out what most of the stamped in number where by comparing it to my drill press. ill re do that and let you know. ultimately im totally fine with just getting a better set of pulleys or adding a jackshaft if the $50 controller isn't actually a good idea. id rather not get the controller and have to buy a new motor aswell. my drill press could do with a better set of pulleys as one of them is fucked so maybe i treat the drill to a new set and use the remaining good pulley on a jackshaft

Cross posting this from the lathe thread where I'd didn't attract any replies but may not have drawn the right eyes. I'm probably gonna just buy a speed controller from aliex tonight and hope but if I'm throwing my money away let me know. - Question for single phase AC motors. I have a 3/4hp single phase motor that i would quite like to be speed controllable via a knob or switch. I see you can get ac speed controllers for fairly cheap but do any of you clued up electrical folk know is they will work and work well? not looking to go single to 3phase and most of the results i get when searching for answers are to do with this. what im starting with is a farily sizable wood lathe, and am turning into a very small engineering lathe with the intention of machining soft metals and hopefully hard metals but only small parts. it has a 3" 3 jaw chuck on it to give you an idea on scale. somewhere between a watchmakers lathe and a small automotive lathe, as this that is what i want to use it for. do AC motors become easier to stall if you dial them down via the power supply over mechanically? and if so at which point does that become a problem? It has speed adjustments via belt and pulley changes but the slowest speed is still fast as fuck lol. dad picked it up for $20 cause the guy said the timber kept coming loose (throwing meter long bits of timber out at i assume mach 1 after looking at it) i need to aquire a tiny to small cross slide and either buy, or make a tail stock, so suggestions on these also welcome. also keen on a tiny 4 jaw chuck aswell

His sign has a vintage car on it lol

hmmm id heard nothing but good things about him and is pretty close to me. fired a request for a quote for timing belt on wifes new to her '13 volvo v40 - couldnt find the parts??? on volvos infamous modular motor???? that uses the same timing belt for the 4-5-6cyl variant engines????? theres a volvo dealer in town????????? pass thanks.. ill just do it myself

What shop?

If you fit a thread to the crank somehow and then use a nut welded to a socket. When the engine starts, the thread unwinds the starter nut. Or do what Martin jetpack did. 12v 1kz-te starter motor with a 24mm socket welded to the bendix. Bolt it to a meter length of steel and feed it 24v. Crouch right under the motor, hold the starter motor onto the starter dog and hit the button, with your arms braced. the throw out bendix ensures engament untill you let off the button, where it jumps back disengaged, after the 200hp 2stroke v4 hand grenade screams to life with the muffler at head height. Scary every time

I mean it seems fairly certain that the abs light being on is probably pretty related to the main source of vehicle speed being broken. Can't reference wheel speedy to vehicle speed without knowing vehicle speed.

this was my first thought too. heaps of alternators have the belt kinda do like a reverse loop around them to get max wrap/traction, but then the pully spins reverse to the crank. edit - bonus points for random internet diagram including a blower. thats the problem Clint, you need to install a supercharger for it to charge. its all in the name, always has been!

Well i guess this marks the start of actually building this engine. Received my block back from kennally cams who gave it a quick tidy up. Not wanting to have the clean and bare block deteriorate i immediately set to coating it this weekend. Ended up settling on the the POR15 product system after reading favorable reviews. i degreased the parts i will paint and applied their metal prep (phosphoric acid + Zinc phosphate active ingredients) - meant to etch the metal and leave a zinc phosphate coating. Maintaining a wet surface for around 40 minutes before flushing and drying Infront of a heater untill bone dry. Next up was the 'Rust preventative coating' - this step was possibly not required for me but seemed recommended as a good anchor for the top coat. this coating is a moisture cured polyurethane, temp resistant and non porus coating. brushed on and left to tack off before topcoat. Finally two coats of the engine enamel. this and the above coating were also warmed up Infront of a heater to provide a better self leveling flow. First coat of topcoat black was brushed on later afternoon saturday, and the second coat went on sunday morning ensuring the first layer was properly touch dry, but not anywhere near close the 24hour recoat limit. Im very happy with the result. the above image looks wet but in reality it touch dry and had been for hours. I have a nice metalic gold for the head and front timing cover + some alloy prep. I will be having the pulleys, sump and pressed steel cover plates gold zinc plated. while not the intention, i am going for what will be a JPS looking colourway on the engine. Now that i have the block back, i can take some final measurements for the valve reliefs to be cut, then the bottom end will be balanced before final assembly.

oh man thats perfect!

is there any reason why you couldn't machine a donut of lexan (or what ever appropriate material you'd use) to fit in between those flanges and just oring them? that way if the clearness deteriorates you can just put a new one in, in like 5 minutes + machine time? its possible i miss interpreted your fill level but i understood it to be around the mating surfaces of the existing flanges, so with a lens there the fill mark would be just when the oil starts to appear? would probably be nicer of the fill mark was in the middle but im sure you could rejig something to achieve that too if desired. /pour a resin donut and embed another lego man

any recomendation for 2013 volvo v40 T5r 2.0 for the same job in chch? @GuyWithAviators do you work for toyota now? or a non specific workshop? can you source volvo/good aftermarket parts? i can and very well might do the job myself but shopping around and realised ive not used a workshop in 15 years and have no clue anymore

xylene/solvent