Adoom

Discuss: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/51323-adooms-1982-kp60-starvia-discussion/ So my project thread started out on Club-K then moved to Toyota Team 80's then Toyspeed. Now here I am. I'll just put in some historical highlights rather than copying the whole 14 pages/6 years.... I started off in 2005 with a KP61 4 door, for $300 from Pick A Part. I was all like ermhegerd must have rotoreee because I was in my early 20's. Then I wanted to get a 4age... Then a low km CA18ET single cam 1800 turbo from an S12 silvia became available for FREE!!! Over a period of 3 months THE STARVIA was born. But after about a year or two, I got rear ended while waiting at an intersection. The car was sandwiched between a big ute and a twat in an accord. The damage was mostly to the shell so I could salvage everything else including some panels. The buy back value of the car according to the insurance company was $300 So the insurance money got me a 2 door with no engine leaving change for UPGRADES! Upgrades like: LSD, coilovers, a 2nd bucket seat, intercooler.

Did they mention what the price might be? Or just "about the same"? I have a Storm G4 with a CA18DET that I will need to get tuned at some point, in the hopefully near future...

Yeh, I've just been looking at photos of escort crossmembers and they are all boxed in.

Progress. Pajero lower control arm bushes. The question I have is, should I gusset the mount on the cross member? It seems pretty solid already. Like this, or something?

Remove the flywheel and clean the points with some fine sandpaper. That's what was wrong with mine that had been sitting for 20 years.

Does the bush need to be bonded to the crush tube and/or outer metal tube/sleeve thing?

I need to make new engine mounts for my ca18det KP starlet. The current ones are those cotton reel type mounts, so not captive. It is a race car, but I don't really want to go as far as solid mounting the engine. I like those escort world cup crossmember ones that have the horizontal bush with a bolt through it. They look reasonably compact and easy to fabricate. I came across an old post where Cletus said not to use any old bush because you cannot do it up tight and the hole goes oval, or something like that.... What kind of bush would be suitable? Is there an economical option that does not have $100's of escort/rwd/brandname tax added to something that cost $20 to make?

Cheers. I'll have to go to pick a part with the cordless impact gun and my old pulley as a guide.

So I'm replacing the CA18ET in my Starlet with a CA18DET. The ET uses a single V belt. The DET uses poly-vee/multi rib thing pulleys. I only have the alternator with the single V pulley. Are the poly-vee pulleys pretty standard on nissans? Or are they all sorts of different offsets and diameters?

I don't think this was already suggested. Delete the factory booster with plate thing so you only have the master cylinder. And install a remote booster elsewhere. Look, the past! //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/20139-remote-brake-booster/

You seriously cut those with a hole saw? What brand/make of hole saws do you have? I have very little success hole sawing any metal. I end up with a fucked saw and a ragged hole.

Yep. I hardly ever look at it anymore, when I do, there are SFA new posts. Where did everyone go?

I have lots of photos, I forgot I took them. I came across it while looking at my Toyspeed project thread.

SOLVED! I found this photo I took. Look at that filth! But #3 has a "P" on it. The other set of caps has a "K". So my guess was wrong.

I think the diff(T-Series) I had shortened 25mm each side was from a corona. The problem with the original axles was that the diameter decreased just after the spline, so if you shortened it and cut more spline further down the shaft, part of the spline "teeth" will not be the full height. Is that the problem you have? I managed to find some axles from a different toyota at Pick a Part, that were a few mm larger diameter overall but same bearings, same number of splines and even 10-15mm shorter than my original ones. They machined that old spline diameter down and cut the new spline. I can't remember what I got the axles from though, it was 10 years ago. It was a Toyota something Wagon.... According to this: http://www.toycrazy.net/tech/diffcompare.html It might have been an E-Series axle. The GX61 wagon looks right.

I don't have any micrometers(or cheeseburgers/bananas/cellphones), it would be nice, but the amount of times I'd use them doesn't really justify buying any. I assume cheap ones are not worth buying. The most precision measuring tool I have is vernier calipers. I am taking it to the guys at Custom Works eventually, when I have some money. But because I have no money yet, I did try installing both #5 caps and they seem to be exactly the same. I cannot see or feel any misalignment where the cap meet the block on either of them, so their machining seems to be pretty consistent.

My avatar is a clue I've had a CA18ET in my starlet since.....2005? 173rwkw. It had a terminal failure last time I went to manfield. Either the head gasket went or the ethanol injection failed, but I ended up with two melted plugs and a whole lot of coolant in two cylinders and some scored bores/pistons, that was the point at which I stopped taking the engine apart and just shoved it under the bench. The early CA18DET was bought before this as an eventual upgrade. But I was convinced not to use it and to try find a late model CA18DET without the weird inlet manifold. So now I have this later model CA18DET that I am in the process of rebuilding, as limited funds allow. I've done the head. But all the parts needed for the block add up to quite a lot.

I think you meant "the 8 port motors with four always open ports...". And yes, those usually closed ports were clogged to buggery with oily crud on the early motor. I have THREE sets of det pistons. But I need to decide which set I will be using before I can give any away. Are you in a hurry?

That's what I needed to hear.

The liner comment confused me for a bit. It doesn't have a liner, it's a CA18 block. The "pitting" around the "liner" is old gasket residue. I probably could have done a better job of cleaning it up before taking the photo. As far as I can tell, there is no pitting apart from how the hole is bigger. I was planning on getting the deck resurfaced.

I just noticed this... Only these two are corroded. All the others are fine. There is normally 8mm between the hole and the bore. With this corrosion it's only 6mm. Is it still okay to use. Seedy Al, Cam?

True, I have one of those too. But it's still shaped like a long block and I cbf getting it out from under the bench and stripping it. It's fucked though, the late engine is my upgrade. I forgot about the crank girdle. This early CA18DET did not have a girdle. The late engine did have a girdle. They both have oil squirters. The CA18ET does not have squirters. There doesn't seem to be an easy way to tell if an early engine will have a girdle. Probably not, but some early(DET) engines apparently do have them. Best way to tell is remove the sump.

Does the engine number have any meaning, or is it just like a unique identifier?

I had them both to hand and wondered if there was any differences between the blocks, I thought I'd share. The early one is one of the first CA18DET, with the cross over manifold and no intercooler, from a bluebird afaik. It has an 8 port manifold, at low revs, every 2nd intake port is blocked, so it only has one functioning inlet valve. It seems in better condition than the later one, but I think it sat for a long time with water in the block that evaporated and left crusty varnish stuff behind. The water pump would not turn and the water galleries were full of shit. The late one is from a S13 silvia. It has the 4 port head. It has bigger inlet valves. It was cheap because it had a knock. I found that it had spun one of the big end bearings. Probably because it had NEVER HAD AN OIL CHANGE EVER!!!!!!!! The oil was like tar. Everything was caked in it. Half the lifters were seized. Poor engine. One rod and crank journal were toast, but I have spares. But enough waffling, here are some photos. The casting around the crank bearings seems to be thicker. Black = Late Brown = early Casting for that oil drain has sharper corners but not so rough. The late one doesn't have the ball valve thing in the filter housing. The casting around the crank bearing seemed thicker in the late one. Again, it looks a bit thicker to me. The later one has two extra bolt holes on either side of the engine mount. The black paint on the early one seems to have held up a lot better than the later one.... Late Early The late one has a water jacket hole missing between 2 and 3.

That's the eventual plan Just as soon as I have some. I finally got my head all together because gf was overseas for work for 2 weeks. I only had to install the valve springs 3 times! The initial install. The, FUCK, how did I forget the valve stem seals, reinstall. And the, WTF do you mean the springs only go one way around reinstall. I should have read the manual. HAHA Now I'm pretty good at installing valve spring collets though.