Adoom

Makin' a patch panel from a firewall I got sent. I dunno how much of it I will end up using. The pile of bits I spot weld drilled off. The hotwire I got from @pusherman after paint stripper and water blaster and 400 grit. The original coating and lacquer are removed, but there is still a bit of the blue paint that was all over it. WTF was that paint, it's nearly indestructible?? Still need to scrub a bit between the spokes to get rid of any loose stuff then mask it off and repaint the black bits.

Can I remove the diagnostic plug from the engine loom and get rid of like a million wires? I think the answer is yes.... I'd just use TE1 and E1 and W to get fault codes. Like WTF am I going to plug into that big diagnostic plug on top of the engine??

I've seen that before, apparently you cannot use urethane bushes with that kit as it relies on the give in the soft rubber bushes to work. We might be getting a bit OT for sheepers discussion thread....

AFAIK early nissan stuff did, like S11, maybe S12, deffo 510. Improving the Triumph setup is still an option. I'm trying to find options to do away with the funny suspension angles the semi trailing arms do when they move. Moving the arm up causes increased negative camber and increased toe out. Reversed for moving down.

I was thinking more along the lines of not using a shit ton of fuel just cruising, rather than the engine's capacity to rev.

How do you find that ratio for revs in 5th at 100kph? I plan on putting a 1UZ and W57 into my Triumph 2500. <-- I have all these bits already. With my 195/60/14" tires I worked out I'd need something like 3.3 to 3.5:1 to have 2600-2750rpm at 100kph. I'm exploring options for the rear end because the existing semi trailing arm setup is said to be craptastic. To put an S13(same as R32, I think) rear end in I'd have to narrow it about the same as you have. I'll drop the existing rear suspension some time and offer up an S13 subframe I have access to, to see if it's remotely feasible. I suspect the front upper arm mounts will require far too much hacking of the floor.

What ratio is the diff, I couldn't find it? Is it the standard ratio for an R32 GTR R200 LSD?

I have a good center console on the way, thanks anyway.

Just done some quick spreadsheeting. Ideal ratio are between 3.3 and 3.5. This gives me 100kph at 2600 - 2750rpm in 5th. Internet seems to think the 1UZ likes this rev range at 100kph.

Do you have any photos? I feel some dejavu... I might have asked in a previous thread. Which sump did you use? My engine is a front sump, but I managed to source a Soarer 'rear' sump out of 'Murica. Initial measurements make it too close to be sure(current engine is in the way of measuring). So it will either just fit behind the cross member, or the crossmember/sump pan might require some modifications. Yeh, I've heard the Nissan diff is a common upgrade. But I don't know if I will find a suitable ratio without having to find some rare as obscure model.

So, putting a 1 UZ and a W57 in this....eventually. I'm not sure what I want to do with the rear end. I've got to upgrade the diff, cause it will break from all the torques. Without breaking out spreadsheets, I think the ratio needs to be around 3.0 to 3.5 to avoid too high revs at cruising speed. I could just replace the diff with something bigger and keep the existing suspension. But the rear suspension is supposed to be quite shit. I have the whole IRS from the LS400, but it's crazy heavy and 200mm too wide. I don't think I could make it fit easily. I could just use the diff from it, but it seems huge and heavy. The brakes are also giant and I'd need 16" wheels. The IRS from a commodore looks like it could be made to fit with less effort than the LS400 and they have the right ratios available.... If I am going to fit the rear IRS suspension from something else, I would prefer to modify the subframe to fit the car, rather than modify the car to fit the subframe. Comments....?

Fuck! my eyes!! That's RED!

Are cats still worth a bit at the metal recyclers because of the platinum in them....?

I had Howatt Engineering in Wingate, shorten and balance my propshaft, by 20mm last week. I just rocked up on my lunch break "hey, can you shorten this?", it was ready two days later. He also checks for play in the universal joints, in my case, they were still okay. Was $203

Washer jet wasn't working. How did it get a wof...? There was power at the motor without pressing the button on the stalk to make it go. Took the button apart and a plastic pin that holds a brass cone in place was missing causing it to be always on. Dang! But then I found it under the carpet!!! Button works as it is supposed to now. I took the motor apart and it was well burnt out from being on for ages. I'll find a suitable replacement at pickapart

You can't just say "build space stuff" then bugger off. SPACE STUFF!!

Did I just pass a bunch of you guys in carterton?

I found an old icecream wrapper in one of the backseat ash trays. I think it's 80s or 90s. I ripped and hacked the foam rubber mat off the firewall because I knew there was run under there. It all looks fairly simple to repair with the engine out(and the mat/stuff under the dash). Anyone got a good firewall they can cut out and send me to make patches with?

So I found this bag in one of the rear guards behind some trim... It's like wool, or batts or something. It's about 40cm long... Um, wtf? Some kind of anti vibration?

And the glass and chrome parts from the interior boot light. And the brake pressure differential switch, the terminal has snapped off mine.

I replaced the broken speed cable with one I bought from witors. I replaced the wiper blades and cleaned the inside and outside of the windscreen. I made a shopping list of parts I need or want: Steering wheel Number plate lights for bootlid Set of front window winders One of the screws that holds the wooden dash panel. Sun visors A center console that is not cracked. Seatbelt hook from B-pillar The vinyl part of the dash with no/less cracks, if such a thing exists.

I bought an oil seal the "same" size and got Brian at howatt to shorten my propshaft. I went to go install them this morning and the seal is not a friction fit, it goes in easily and can move around. Damn. It must be only 0.1mm smaller than the original. So, do I just silicon it in, or do I go to Nissan to get the oem seal and hope it's a tighter fit?

So I FINALLY got around to removing the badly leaking gearbox tailshaft oil seal. It was a bit of a bitch to lever out with the flat head screw driver. It turns out the propshaft is too long, so at some points in the suspension travel, the shaft of the yoke is thrust, right to its base where it is has more girth, and this has reamed out the seal in the gearboxes tail end. The weld at the base of the yoke shaft has also 'machined' a bit of a step where the seal goes in. The alloy casting will need to be cleaned up a bit and a new seal should go in fine. I'll get the propshaft shortened. It was probably borderline too long since I had it made and since then it's been reshelled, had a new gearbox mount and adjustable trailing arms installed. I could probably get myself a bit more clearance using the adjustable arms, but I'd rather shorten it to be safe. A well reamed seal.

Second night of literally living in my shed. Last night was quite warm. But it's been raining since this afternoon with a southerly, so 14 degrees. Upside is my cars and tools are in my bedroom I fixed the horn, it worked when I picked it up but then never again. Someone had spliced in their own separate wire and online fuse from the horn relay to the horn and unplugged the original wires... their splicing/ soldering was so shit. I ripped all the extra crap out and proceeded to trace the wires back to find why the original wiring wasn't working. Pretty sure it was just a spade connector that needed cleaning up. Horn works now, "parp parp". I tried to remove my center console to glue up the cracks, but couldn't work out how to remove the choke, fan, cig knobs. I can unscrew the... bezel nuts? but the knob is too big for the hole and I don't think lube will help in this case.

I remembered to check where the WOF was done. The sticker says MS1224 541 Rosebank Road Avondale. Which seems to be Avondale Tyres & Car repairs.