Adoom

o-rings? http://www.nzefi.com/product/fuel-injector-service-kit-nissan-r32-rb20det-rb25de-rb26dett/ Or these guys. http://www.cdlautoparts.co.nz/media/product_range/cedele/EFI Injector Components Catalogue - April 2012.pdf

Zip zap

OMG you hang wheels off the ends of those spindly things?!

Somehow it took most of today to make this bit. Most of the time was trying to get the curve right. I think this is as close as I can get it without starting all over again. I need to cut out and patch that rusty hole before I can start tacking the sill on. It will need a skim of filler I think...

Then after much fettling I glued it in. And made the bit with the step in it to fill the gap. I made this in two parts otherwise I don't know how I would do the step. I didn't bother grinding the welds down completely, since they won't be seen, I did tidy some of them up a little.

Glued the jacking point in, then proceeded to grind off two of the new spotwelds while trimming to fit the middle sill panel. And the middle sill panel. I got the folds in the right place FIRST TIME!

Made most of the jacking point. I still need to linish the welds a bit. no one will see it... but I will know. And sacrifice a big bolt, or something suitable for the stub thing. Mine is made from 2mm, the original is 1.2 or 1.5. I started off trying to use my bender... it's only rated for 1mm, I did one bend and realised it was damaging the edge of the clamping 'finger'. Dang. So I moved to the vice, a block of wood and a big hammer.

It's only taken me many YEARS, but I finally remembered to get some wingnuts for my boot box while I was at the wingnut shop. Now I can open it without having to find a 10mm spanner.

Wire brush?? Or electrolysis. I had good success trying this on a rusty spade...blade. It's easy, you just need baking soda from paknsave or something, a bucket big enough for the flywheel, another bit of metal to make more rusty and a battery charger.

Only thing I can think of is that the splines had no oil or grease on them and have rusted together. I'd keep going with the bit of wood and a hammer. Maybe get a bigger hammer, but definitely keep the bit of wood.

Glued this bit on. I'll need to make a new jacking point before I can go any further with the sill.

Even being careful, I think I have managed to break the clips on just about every single fucking plug on my 1UZ.

I welded this bit in last night. The welds are a bit shit, I think I had a bad earth on the ground clamp, but didn't realise till I was finished.

AFAIK, it's "Gusseting". Triangles of metal welded in corners to make them stronger. They do the same thing and use the same word in clothing... just with cloth, not metal. "Gazetting", sounds similar... but, I had to look it up, means something like "publish". Don't mean to be a dick or anything. /Spelling nazi

When the two guys pulled my sheet off the stack and put it in the trailer I saw double. I'm like "I think you might have grabbed two sheets there". Guy was like "If there are two, it's your lucky day". Just unloaded now. Must be my lucky day. Two sheets sticky stuck together with whatever oily stuff it is they protect the sheets with. Should have bought a lotto ticket.

I got a sheet of 0.8mm cold rolled, cause @Spencer said it was nicer to weld. I think it was $50 something... I got a few things and didn't get the invoice back.

I found a blog of a guy doing the same sill repairs and he has takes lots of photos which will help me reconstruct areas that had rusted into oblivion. https://rembunator.wordpress.com/2015/02/10/i-care-deeply-an-in-depth-look-at-the-front-end-sill-construction/#jp-carousel-169

Stuck the inner sill panel on. Feels much more solid now.

I made the inner sill panel that closes off that big hole. But I didn't take a photo and now it's got wet paint on it. I also made the flange for the end of the outrigger.

BZZZZT BZZZT BZZZZT It took longer than you would expect to make this patch cause of a bit of a rib in the floor.

Can you not just brush on epoxy 2k primer "and have a lot of wastage"? @Spencer

Yeh, I'll try that. I've read a few things that have said the same. Hopefully I don't just make it worse.

I also made a start on recreating the end of the 'outrigger'. 2mm is so much more forgiving to weld. I made the shape by banging a block of wood on the end of the outrigger to leave an impression. Then cut along that line with a jig saw(I cut it a little too big, should have been smaller), so I ended up with a little block. Then I clamped the metal to the block in the vise and hammered it around the profile of the block. It worked quite well. The top flange is not quite right, I cut and shut/ trimmed it a bit afterwards, but didn't take more photos.

So I thought, I'll just do an easy quick patch. LOL. Small holes Big hole Patch the edge of the .... filler hole bowl. Grind weld back. Weld in patch. Grind down welds. Realise I went too fast and hot with my welding, so it shrank and pulled the rest of the panel in causing a crease/dent down to the top of the wheel arch. I'd like to fix it rather than fill it because my straight edge makes the dent at least 5mm deep and about 200-300mm wide. I'm not sure of the best way to fix it... Cut a vertical slit through the patch and hope it relieves the tension, then weld the slit up much slower? I can sort of access to back through a hole big enough for my hand with a dolly. Could I panel beat it flat? Or is this too advanced for a beginner and it just get worse???? Help!

Progress? I'm doing the same rust repairs on my MK2