Adoom

AFAIK, if it's for motorsports, a painted helmet will fail scrutineering.

I could be wrong... but you did say "opinions".

59 minutes ago, moparmuppet said:

Cheers @Adoom That plane must be getting low on fuel. If it runs out it will be stuck up there forever.  If it turns up I would be keen on your review of it (Mauser lathe right?)

Just seen this on T.M. but it sure seems arse about face with the wiring. https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2725788388   230 1 phase to the motor and converter out the other side?  I just want a VFD with a PDL plug on the output I would think.

Do you have a link to the VFD you allegedly bought?  Thanks for clearing some of the muddle up. Seems like if I am rated 230V Delta it shouldnt be too hard. (easier than getting a single phase and making it reverse. Gonna email the agents as well though. Nothing like doing it once, poorly eh?

Meuser.

"Mauser" is a... gun?

That mystery white box is probably just full of big capacitors. An oldschool way  to run a 3ph motor on 1ph. I believe there are downsides to doing it that way.  But that is the same trademe seller I mentioned that has the VFDs too.

This is what I ordered. The 7.5KW option. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000927690757.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.48194c4dFSZbhp

Remember, I'm not an electrologist, this is just from the research I did before ordering my VFD.

2 minutes ago, moparmuppet said:

Thanks @vk327  @drftnmazI was  thinking about all the control side and wanting to reverse the motor too, thinking it might have been in the too hard basket with single phase. I will ring the old agents and see if they have any info. You mention star,  most of these 3 phase tyre machines are 2 speed turntables and assume the first 1/2 press of the pedal runs star, a full press will go delta so I am guessing that means the motor will be happy running star all day without overheating. 

 Drftnmaz. Looking at your motor plate it is 220V on delta and 380 on star?  not the other way round as you mention at the top of your reply? Does that mean it is rated for 3 x 220v in  Delta   Are your machines running 220 or 380? Hooked up star or delta?  Do the 220V x 1 input VSDs output 3 x 220v or 3 x 380v?  Just trying to get my head around it all. I will be home mid weekend and will look at the motor plate.  Cheers, Vaughan.

I reckon Drftnmaz just made an error. The Delta option will always be the lowest voltage the motor will run on.

I am not clued up on how the speed control would work for your current setup. But I would imagine that if your motor was 380v delta and you wired a 380v 3PH supply to it in Star, it would run slower.... but I'm no electrologist.

I've looked into VFDs to get my head around it for a big motor I am installing on my lathe.

Most VSD/VFD will be 220v 1PH in and 220v 3ph out. If your motor plate has a 220v Delta(the triangle) option, you can use that kind of VSD/VFD. These are the reasonably inexpensive ones.

If the Delta option on your motor plate says 380v, then the Star(upside down Y) will be ~600v, you cannot run it on the above type VFD. But you can get a VFD/VSD that does 220v 1PH in and 380v 3PH out, but they cost much more and they are not nearly as common.

I have ordered a 7.5KW VFD from AliExpress, to run a 5.5KW 380v 3PH(Delta) Motor. The VFD was ~$600. It's on longtime shipping. I ordered it at the end of April... it's been "on a plane" since June 23rd. Still got another month left on the order guarantee thingo. Hopefully I have not wasted my money.

If you don't want to wait a million years... There is a VFD guy on Trademe. I'm pretty sure he is just reselling the Aliexpress VFDs and he has a hefty markup. Last time I looked he did have some of the 220v 1PH to 380v 3PH VFD.  

EXTENDO BRACKET!

The big motor does not fit with the rear stud in the original location. Fortunately there is another tapped hole for the stud further back. I assume there was a factory option with a longer motor that uses a different plate...

This option seemed way easier/cheaper than making a completely new mounting plate.

I still need to make an adapter plate because the bolt holes on the motor are just wider than the slots in the plate. 

Just now, gibbon said:

That's actually looking pretty promising, the only measurement missing is the size of the center gap... what the heck are those elongated ports for?

Interested to see if the later manifolds share the same spacing, I'd prefer a throttle body on the end rather than a top-loader 

AFAIK, the long skinny runners that go to the 4 ports shaped like an 8 are to increase the velocity of the air at low revs. To get more air in? For increased bottom end torque? As the revs increase the butterflies open allowing the air to go through the big short runners and feed all 8 inlet ports.

The downside to this is if you use only low revs, 4 of the ports/valves are blocked most of the time and you get lots of carbon gunk built up behind those 4 valves. When I stripped that engine there was big piles of gunk stacked up behind those 4 valves. 

Just now, gibbon said:

Oh and the distance between the centres of the two outermost ports, if its anything near 310mm I'll be a happy man indeed 

I did not move the ruler between photos. So the measurement is there... 299mm. Sad man.

Oh yeh and the center gap.... is 183mm-149mm = 34mm

Pics too huge... I also have the head. I was planning on using it. I had gone through the effort of hand cutting new gaskets. But then the tuner I was going to use was like "LOLWAT! Find a normal one".

Here is my funny super early manifold

I have one, but it's a really early version and has a cross over manifold with a TVIS like contraption on it. Is it worthwhile measuring that?

Finally got around to wrestling with the gearbox at the start of lockdown. I needed to swap it out with a spare because the seat for the output shaft oil seal was damaged due to a too long propshaft and it would leak oil. 2nd gear started making noise.

Put some essential oils in.

Didn't look at invoice so no dicks were seen.

@Dell'orto

I pulled the old box apart and there was fuck all oil in it. 2nd gear looked physically okay, but was all black and burnt. Reverse had chipped corners from missing 4th a few too many times.

20 minutes ago, nzstato said:

Here, have lots of solid stock you pay by the kg.  Or something similar close to you.

https://rietveld.co.nz/

Thanks. I have emailed those guys.

So I need to make a chuck backplate. It's for a multisize collet chuck.

It came with a backplate for a Colchester Student lathe. Which ALMOST fit! The L0 spindle nose taper is the same and the thread diameter is the same. But my lathe is german and metric so the thread pitch is 3mm compared to the 3/32"(4mm) of the Colchester. 

Basically the same as the one ToT made here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAQLrM1P-YQ

I need a fuck-off big round of cast iron... or mild steel will probably be okay.

It needs to be 220mm diameter and 70mm long. It can be a bit bigger, but not much longer because it's too big for me to cut, I will have to turn any excess into swarf.

In theory, I could cut it on the vertical bandsaw. But going by how long it takes to cut 25mm mild steel plate, I will be there for hours because there is no auto feed.

It would be about 19KG.

Steel & Tube Stainless(Seaview. Not the main S&T place) are not replying to emails.... and when I drove past last week, their building is empty.

Easysteel came back with ~$200 for cast iron.

Is this what I should expect to pay?

Does anyone know where I might get a bit of cast iron or mild steel this size for less than $200?

Just now, Muncie said:

Forward and reverse, one i use to use also had the standard switch up top as well.

Oh, neat. So it doesn't do anything mechanical, it's just a giant lever for an electric switch.

So I can wire this into the VFD for my forward/reverse.

Cheers.

Soooo I finally found a big boy motor that wasn't shitloads of money.

5.5KW Oh yeh!

It's quite a bit bigger than the 2.2KW. It juuuust fits in the motor house, I have to put it on its side to get it through the door.

I've got a 7.5KW VFD on the way. Which was 1.5 times as much as I paid for the motor.

To run the VFD I had to get a 32Amp circuit installed in the garage, it will draw ~23 Amps. Fortunately I found a used outlet with a plug for fuck all. But the 6mm cable and conduit cost as much as the motor did. To save some money I pulled the cable and ran the conduit. But the electrician was almost as much again as the motor was.

Hey @Muncie. What does this lever do? It's got a cam on the end that operates a couple of switches. I could probably use them as external switches on the VFD.

You might want to use a bit of wood or aluminium to practice drilling the holes in the right place, then use the best one as a drilling template on the boot lid?

10 hours ago, siren676 said:

If they haven't sent it do you just want me to grab it and chuck on nzc for you?

 

 

It's ~$150, they haven't charged me anything, so it's not paid for.

If you could just find out what's happening. If they actually have it in stock. Or if they can get it, how long is it going to take.

The order number I got was #2590 and it was on April 26th.

https://www.chevpac.co.nz/catalogue/page/rf-20-30-spares_SPA_S140_C541/rf-30-633-sm6215s-table-base-nut_SPR303320?p=1

Just now, siren676 said:

I work around the corner from them, can check next week for you.
They seemed short staffed when i visited couple weeks before lockdown.

Great! You sir, are awesome.

Has anyone dealt with Chevpack machinery since lockdown?

Their website doesn't say anything about covid19. They have a FB page, but it hasn't been updated for years.

I've emailed them and not had a reply for weeks.

I did an order online, it went through, but the confirmation email said freight TBA. I have not been charged for anything. That was April 26th.

I tried calling them last week. I spoke to an indian guy(I suspect it might have been a call answering service, not actually Chevpack) he said he would get someone from sales to call me.

Still silence.

They are the only place in NZ that lists the table nut for my RF30 mill.

I dropped a 2.5mm screw.

19 hours ago, shrike said:

Anyone got any recommendations on what a good size garage late or even a brand to go for? Keen to get one in the not so distant future, am keeping on eye out 2nd hand but would also consider new. 

No idea what size the ones ive used in the past are

Look in the "show us your shed" thread.... My Totalspan 8X12M came to ~$30K including the slab and assembly(excluding all electrics). I'm happy with it. That was 2 years ago.

Isn't the boot pull in the box between the seats?

What's the fitting made of? Can you get some weld onto it? That should loosen it up.  

Just now, oldrx said:

I like the look of the linked one below but doesn't go small enough - I need to bead some 5/8 ali tube. Does anyone know if something that will do 5/8 is available in NZ? 

https://www.baccus-enterprises.com/apps/webstore/products/show/6489012

 

 

They are just vice grips with bits of metal welded to the jaws.... You could probably make some out of those cheap small size needle nose vice grips