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Guy from the scimitar club went to 3.8ltr fuel injection and seems to be very reliable, he runs i think series 2 Holden coils, ecu etc. He does have a bit of hardware that allows him to program his own chips for the ecu however. He has a chopped up burton power triple webber manifold as part of his injection set up however I don't believe he ever ran a carb on it.

Put rear of the bike up on something so that the engine is horizontal again and see if that fixes the issue?

http://jaycar.co.nz/productResults.asp?keywords=hid&keyform=KEYWORD&SUBMIT.x=0&SUBMIT.y=0

Blowby? It seemed to be very white smoke, you sure you dont have a leak in you brake booster allowing brake fluid to enter your engine?, however you would also see lots of white smoke out of the exhaust? i remember you having issues with your sump leaking oil, this could also be related to your sump being pressurised by blowby? has the engine been rebuilt? has it been run in and have the rings beded in well? apparently its common to get quite alot of blowby on newly built engines while the rings are bedding in.

A quick google search shows that most coil resistances are well above 100 ohms so I=V/R 12/100=0.12A looking here http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm the table says that 23AWG wire is good for power transmission of 0.79A I realize that the voltage will probably be higher than 12v but still it should easily carry this current, am i working out the draw of the realy's coil correctly are there other things i am not taking into account?

Does anyone know the current relays draw for switching? cat6 network cable is 23 guage so bigger than cat5e but not by much.

i believe reliant used a Mini indicator assembly, mine seems a little worn out so i was wondering if there are any more modern or reliable alternatives, the indicator assembly needs to be able to be clamped to the steering column looks like this; also does anyone know the minimum gauge wiring needed to switch relays, i was thinking of using network cable (as this would be a really clean solution to my problem) but i am unsure if it will handle the current?

Took the dash out today wasted a lot of my time attempting to find screws holding the crash pad on that are mentioned in workshop manual but not included in diagrams (turns out they don't exist reliant used double sided tape from factory) decided to leave the crash pad in for now and take the face of the dash off to check out the wiring. there is a lot of wiring for such a simple car but ill hopefully be able to simplify this hugely. its no wonder the dash cracks around the gauges a flimsy plastic face is holding all the weight of the gauges and just sits on top of a ~8mm glass fiber back plate, i would have at least thought they would have used it to support some weight, but no.

okay so did a bit of work on it today i have exams coming up but i think studying through the week cars etc on weekends is fair enough, anyway i got the dremel out and attacked the inner sills the drivers side took about 45 minutes but luckily the left passengers side was a lot easier as the steel had been glassed in, in a different way. reliant has been taking lessons form UncleJake i think... as you can see these steel supports are gone, i think taking the time to cut them out and replace with new ones will be worth it

tomypg's car redlines at 7k and seeing as the sc12 can rev twice that i thought that cam pulleys would be a good option as they are easy to find and cheap as well as the benefit of a toothed belt.

Started having a good look at the body and noticed that the inner sill had started splitting and after having a short poke around there was a couple of handfuls of rust on the ground, Being a fiberglass bodied car they don't rust but they have steel fiberglassed into certain areas to help with rigidity. So i spent most of yesterday attempting to remove the steel, its turning out to be a lot harder than i imagined as i can not get any tool into the top of the inner sill to cut out the fiberglass so have had to resort to prying/ripping it out bit by bit. The body is off the chassis so it makes access a bit better but still has fuck all room in there. the end bit of one of the sections the end brace bit is exposed so there was no hope for it not rusting.

Heard this also. also thinking about it i'm fairly sure Turbo----> intercooler---->SC---->intercooler---->TB wouldn't work as the TB may be forced open however Turbo----> intercooler---->TB-->SC---->intercooler---->Engine Would work wouldn't it? running the turbo charger before the SC is i believe what VW did on their twincharger 1.4 tsi and it looks like they used intercoolers between each stage, if this is how a modern engine is designed from factory it must be a pretty good option.

How about running 2 intercoolers im sure planes used to run this set up but with 2 SC instead of the turbo. Turbo----> intercooler---->SC---->intercooler---->TB

Managed to get a few mates around yesterday to move the bodies around, its amazing how many people are busy when you mention moving car bodies I'm going to use the original scimitars body with the new chopped up scimitars chassis + drive train and i will keep the separate bare body i brought awhile ago for a future project. The green body needs sanding back and painting as well as a few fiberglass repairs so it needed to be moved under cover, the other body and the original chassis in need a a few minor rust repairs was being stored in the shelter station so i moved these out and am storing the spare body on the old chassis to help straighten out the body (it had been sitting on the ground before i brought it and had a slight bow to it) Once these were out i moved the green body in and supported up off the ground i will be able to slowly work on sanding it back and repairing it without having to worry about weather. I have quite a number of sheets of plywood to lay down as a floor to keep it tidy and clean inside. The majority of work on this should start towards the end of the year after i have finished my exams.

This is so so awesome love it!

Thinking of selling the supercharger to get money to go towards a daily driver, anyone interested in a m90 in good condition with a rather large throttle body? (will put a FS up when i fully decide to sell it)

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=23622&start=80 scroll down KK-Kolonel explains in in depth (this is for what the ratings mean and the effect they have)

Cheers for that, yea i think 1/4 bumpers with over riders would look quite good on the front and fit in with the shaped area that im assuming is where the number plate will end up.

You might not even have to curve the ends around if you put some of the little sticking out bits on the end (not sure of the correct name for them but they look like this) if they are stuffed you may as well give it a go.

There's a bit of bog in there yeah but when i use that body ill end up modifying it anyway, they had a lot of bog in them from factory.

Yea, the new car should start bringing it along nicely, would be keen as to check out your car aswell, i'm only just round the corner.

I know, its amazing how much space cars take up when you dismantle them, the garage was nice and tidy but now i have huge piles of stuff to sort out and because parts are not all that common in nz i don't want to throw away any of the original stuff even if its fairly knackered and i wont ever use it. Hopefully once this one is on the road it will seem more worthwhile rather than the piles of parts just getting in the way.

hey are you tom? I think i went to ANI with you. this wall looked fairly familiar

Okay so a couple of months ago through the club i received an email about a project that was for sale, considered finding out more at the time but for some reason i didn't. Anyway the other day i received another email saying the project was going to go up on trade me for $1 reserve so i rang the guy and found out the project was a very reasonable price so went and checked it out on Friday said id take it then and there and picked it up yesterday. Its a SE5a just like the other 2 but the body was damaged in storage while the guy was cleaning up the chassis so he cut it down to make it into a convertible Engine has oversize pistons and just recently had the heads off and checked etc, also has electronic ignition which is good as it would be one of the first things id do to it. as you can see the chassis is very clean, and colourful It has the 4 speed with electronic overdrive as well as a Nardi steering wheel The original rims are also in very good condition. Plans; As the rego on this is on hold unlike the other one which is dead i will be using this chassis/drive-train/engine with the green body and interior. The plan is to get a road legal scimitar for as little money as possible (so sticking with the NA essex for now) I shouldn't have to buy too many new parts as buy the looks of it out of the two cars i at least have one good set of everything. New things i am definitely going to buy; Wiring, i could attempt to just wire the cars with existing wiring but i don't want to risk it, for the money i would spend doing it myself it would be stupid to leave the dodgy wiring it has now in it. Radiator the radiators were crap form new so i'm on the look out for something out of a later model car to use. Window seals these could become potentially very expensive but i know someone who my old man sold a set to years ago very cheap that i might be able to buy back as he hasn't used them yet. Ill have to do something about the paint on the green car but i don't want to spend huge money on it and will do most if not all of it at home, im not aiming for an excellent finish as being a fiber glass car it will crack in a few years no mater how well you paint it. There will be more things to add to the list but those are the main things im thinking about right now

Cheers for that information, although i think ill keep the front standard for now at least on the road car for ease of completion and the fact that i don't want to mess up the body for the road car.