Horse25

more progress this weekend, just dropped it off to get the hoodlining redone and sunvisors recovered etc then to do is, windscreen exhaust tune the headers which i am so eagerly awaiting cheers to bubblegoose

bummer mine are 77 and 80

yeah turned out pretty good, bog work is acceptable, alot better than the last respray so im happy with it, if you need a payment in advance let me know, was hoping to having them done before sunday for the drive out to rollo to get my hood lining etc done, just have to wear the ear muffs also was keen to drop the IRS around 2mrw arvo if you're home

this pic is all i have time for now, but its all painted :D Satin Black this time instead of Matte black

might be cheaper to get another drive shaft?

Looking forward to these results A LOT, don't forget to take a video!

you should buy this if you are converting http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =290299325

i have a timing light if you dont have one, we could check when you bring that diff head around, also have checked your points gap?

hey, if you read some of the previous posts that should tell you, only reason i changed it was to fit sidedrafts also the mk1 master i had was just keeping up with my brakes. The guy helping me said it would be a mission to do with the engine in, Depending on how routed your old one is it might be cheaper to get it reconditioned?

Big thanks again to Bubblegoose for his help! also purchased these x2 mk2 2door shells, in pretty poor condition

yup, only painting parts of the van so will stick with it, would go white if i was painting the whole thing

yup, got that done last year haha, 2 years too late, now you cant even see the tip

few more hours prep and it should be ready for primer Big thanks to joe for the help today! Discuss! viewtopic.php?f=18&t=22070&start=20

speaking of having a perv, what you think of these? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 419258.htm

sweet cheers for that, hopefully wont be leaving oil marks on the drive now Im replacing the T9 with a W50, trying to get it lower geared as it bogs down from 1st to 2nd, also what diff ratio to go for? these are the gear ratios for each box, how different will it be? ive tried to google to for some sort of explanation but cant get my head around it haha, someone here have an "easy" answer? T9 ratios W50 Ratios 1st 3.65:1 3.287:1 2nd 1.97:1 2.043:1 3rd 1.43:1 1.394:1 4th 1.00:1 1.00:1 5th 0.82:1 0.853:1 Rev 3.66:1 4.039:1

looking really good, how far have you extended your time frame by to get it running? also what master did you end up going with?

have been doing a bit more since the last up date, cheers to bubblegoose for his help so that is all that patching done this time around

The pinion seal is leaking oil, going to replace this but heard that i need to be careful when tightening the nut, what would be the correct torque to tighten it to?

ill find out, heres a few photos you wanted, doesnt have a retaining bush though,

got a bit done today, motor in, and few things reconnected, mm yellow, hate love? also using a different manifold, which doesn't have the mounting bolts for my accelerator cable, What options do i have for this? I know i can weld a bracket to come off the tappet cover, anything suggestions would be good! also have to patch the inner part on the rear. whats best, as in weld from the outside and not grind it back? as it cant be seen once the top patch goes on, and then weld from the otherside(inside the arch etc) and grind that back?

the door shuts as good as the other one, started on the rear tonight, ended up cutting a bit out of the inner part as well, made a patch but wasn't right and couldn't get it too work, so ripped it out and ill use a patch from the door ive been cutting up, slightly thinner, hopefully it will work out for me next time. oh and the rust didnt go too high, just went up the rear guard a bit:P it cost around $260 but then $60 postage, haven't refilled it yet as it came full.

not sure what brand, he said they get different makes in, but that is the part number for the 1inch bore that QCADTA has used, i rung up the same place and bought one as well. so what did you have in mind for buying for yourself?

didnt get much done this weekend, away 4x4ing but thanks to BZG|Bling i now have my own gas bottle, had to cut one of the drivers door hinges off because it had already been welded on and couldnt fit the hacksaw blade in, so tacked it up today and im pretty happy with how it fits but will get a second opinion.

Part number : 90577520 part description Cyl B/M 109 tandem 1" Hope this helps Cheers David

ill try get some more info, the other master cylinder is for the other car. haven't used the brakes yet, but we did a full bleed and they feel really solid now, was warned to have a play before i go on the road as the bite time will be different. as for the lines i bought new valve parts(idk right name) and just cut the old lines and made them to suit. not using a proportioning valve, don't have a use for it at this stage as far as i can see?