toyabusa

also as you check them bend them and move them around etc, they sometimes may only show a fault in a certain position they should be around 2K ohms per 100mm depending on type etc

^^ he does some amazing work here's some more http://www.performanceforums.com/forums ... pped+valve http://www.performanceforums.com/forums ... pped+valve

can you please elaborate on the compatibility problems, and why it is a downgrade for those of us that dont know do you have a build thread? details?

so who won? did you just buy another car?

Clamp or some way of applying pressure to ball joint heat ( dont need a gas torch, I use a heat gun ) it will have no adverse effects a few man hits to cast bit with BFH, Another hammer on the other side as above is a good idea and can only help this has never failed me Is anyone able to go around to help? I would if i was closer edit, also if you are leaving it overnight or for a while try some penetrating oil, wd40, rostoff etc worth a go cant hurt and supply video to confirm man hits lol

sweet?

heat the surrounding metal trying to get as little heat into the ball joint spindle as possible, then as above press it out, or get pressure on it with a clamp or somthing and hit what its stuck in with BFH. but heat it no matter what also lol at cutting it off

^ this^ yea close to straight but not straight, as eke_zetec_RWD said maybe no less than 1.5deg, just so that the rollers are rolling as they are designed to do. when the rollers dont roll a couple of them take all the load, disform and then you have play and a disaster is not far away

yea angle is good, no angle bad. with irs there will be angle built in with the gearbox and diff parallel but higher and lower than eachother, or off to one side.

uj's are NOT designed to work at no angle and will NOT last like this, show me one factory setup that has no angle and I will buy you a box of beer. from what manufactures say they will last the longest at anywhere from 3-5 degrees. my starlet shaft was between 15-20 degrees ( we had to clearance the yokes to not bind ) not ideal at all and wouldnt be the go on a road car but it did not wear out crosses and did not fail even getting spun to 10500rpm parallel but offset is the ticket, so both crosses are at the same but opposite angle to cancel out the change in speed they go through on every rotation

yea man. If you have a good look at how the uj's work you'll see what i mean about the rollers

parallel but offset to eachother, so the shaft is at an angle. with no angle the crosses will wear out by point loading the rollers rather than them rolling inside the cups. you have quite a bit of tolerence, also if you are after more traction you could look into pointing the pinion flange down a little

yea oil and filter were changed every couple of events (cost me a fortune) and every time it was still golden as it was drained out. they do have plain bearings, and are much like a normal car engine inside. if i had of pulled it down 1 event earlyer it would still be going now its as simple as that, you are 100% right it was just too much work for it for too long. and it did a shit load of work now that i think of it.

yea i LOL'd at the time too, its halirious when stuff like this happens to other people who have tryed somthing a little out of the ordinary, worked through multiple challenges that arise from using the absolute maximum and somtimes more of what the car and engine were never designed to do. Those ''few special stages" were actually 40 or so laps of taupo's track 2, 3 laps of track 1, 20 laps of track 3. at a guess 1000km of gravel stages, a few hundred km of tarseal sprints and hillclimbs and the 16000km the bike had done before i bought it. me not knowing why it has done it and you being sure its just down to sump baffles is a pretty big assumption to make, i agree sump baffles when done right can only help the situation but in this case do you think the extra 500-600kg it was lugging around and the fact it was rearly pulling less than 7000rpm and mostly between 9000-11000rpm when being raced on the same bearings it was first put together with could aslo be a factor? if and when we get it going again it will more than likley be dry sumped but will also be pulled down a lot earlyer for a freshen up. please leave your details so i can get in touch if/when its going again and you will be more than welcome to come and see what its put through from the passenger seat, and the on going effort that goes into getting it to compete with 4wd turbo cars. i am also very interested in what interesting things you have done. sorry for posting this in here.

rotorua car club ran standing 400m and flying 400m with 1km run up a few years ago on Goudies Rd. ( where owen evans crashed ) my starlet did 16.1 on the standing and 166kph average over the flying 400m, this was a 4k with twin sidies

awesome fab skills, electric hot rod http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/show ... hp?t=28307 Lotus Esprit with Audi 4.2 V8 and six speed transaxle http://www.motorgeek.com/phpBB2/viewtop ... sc&start=0 rock crawler, amazing fabrication http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=555900 e30 bmw v8tt http://www.s14.net/forums/showthread.php?t=23938 escort gp4 build http://boardroom.wscc.co.uk/cgi-bin/iko ... =3;t=46169

just went 8.78@158 on radials!

GAZ,- the wastegate off the turbine housing is a really good way of controlling boost, my ex boss's rb30 powered racecar had it this way for a while. however when he changed to a bigger turbo he changed the wastegate to coming off the manifold at the same time. with the bigger turbo it made more power as you would expect, but also came on a decent amount earlyer. he can not run as low a boost pressure as before though, it wont bypass enough gas. this was on an engine making a lot of power with a fairly large turbo these are facts for this particular application, not an opinion

check out the size being not much bigger after the collector than the primarys themselves and also the wicked merge angle

i used that type ( different supplier ) with my 4k in the datsun and was sweet

********** FOR SALE *********** Due to a few things this is up for sale, would love to have it finished bit dont have the space or the time at the moment. Would like to see someone from oldschool end up with it. Will sell with or without the engine and g/box im not too fussed. $1200 for the car without engine, g/box/ link etc. will have to talk if someone wants the whole lot or engine alone etc etc

go kart guys arent allowed to use that stuff anymore so maybe hard to get or cheap if someone has left overs. +1 for that track being a couple seconds slower with those cones on second to last corner, without them at the dual sprints I did 1.19

Engine is now out to fill all the un-used holes and prep the bay and rest of car for paint. Thanks to Ryan for all the hours he has put into prepping the doors and panels. Decided on a silver and put some on backside of bonnet and door jams to test

Thought id post my other project to keep the motorvation up. And will have more time for it while the rallycars not going. Its a 72 datsun 1200 sedan. Bought it off my old boss, has nearly everything apart from engine, g/box, bumper, front guards and a few little bits here and there. Had my 4k sitting around collecting dust after it was swapped out of the starlet to make way for the busa engine so logical choice was to use it in the datto. Engine is a Toyota 4k with prepped crank and rods, std pistons, decked block ( 12:1 comp ) heavily modified head, 180b valves. Runs EFI Hardware 45mm Quad throttle bodies, rb25 injectors and a link computer. Engine has been fitted plumbed, wired and tuned, made 72kw @wheels.

yea the start of the damage is def bearing wear, wen we first got it up and running i was supplied some oil hose to run to the oil cooler, at the first event it stretched and came off the barb fitting ( not ment to run hose clamps apparently ) causing the oil press light to come on. I caught it real quick and turned it off. befor the next run we shortened up the lines and put hose clamps on, this just caused it to burst and again the light came on and luckily i turned it off quickly again. turns out i was supplied a bad batch!! its got stainless braid now so thats that sorted, but have to think it wasnt the best for it and now this has happened its kinda making me wonder. the bike had 16,000km on the clock wen I got it and dont know the service history, it has been in the car about 2 years and just been constantly thrashed so i probly should have pulled it down earlyer. its just so hard wen they're going so good and theres no reason. wen i build it this time we will be looking into improving oil system and not taking anything for granted. the plan was always to turbo it in the future so it will be built as bullet proof as possible now and the aftermarket parts available are endless ( but so are there prices )