flyingbrick

That's flipping incredible work. Cullen's in Te Aroha have always done my laser (and water jet, but that may have been in Auckland, my memory is fading) with good turn around times.

Just bought new heavy duty heater channels which were on special coz of light surface rust.  Can't wait for house to finish so we can move out of this fuckin shed and I can make some dust.

Actually, wont cost you much to have the wheel bored to shrink fit a sleeve either. Could only take a machinist an hour.

You have to machine down any braze anyway so you are better off spending a bit more money and having a new shaft made from scratch. That one looks totally cheesed.

Or use some kinda snorkel system to bring the hoods outlet up into an area of known low pressure.

@Roman please draw a side profile of the car and run it through a virtual wind tunnel/fluid dymanics stuff (Which i know you know how to use) and show us pretty colors to represent pressures at base of windscreen.

Isn't the base of the windscreen a high pressure area? Eg cowl induction hoods actually draw from that area rather than expelling air like you'd think.

On 11/01/2022 at 19:18, Muncie said:

If I can do a mid 13 second quarter with this combo I'll be running alongside a Toyota echo

(Hehehe)

Take care. Cheap injectors are known to be pretty shit. I think @Roman had a test rig that could be good insurance?

That tank blew my mind

Hope 2022 is going better for you man.

How did you hammer form those headlight ears so perfectly? I can't seven see hammer marks?!

Did the corro loop for the first time.

Fuck tomatoes how the hell does he afford petrol? It's like $60 to fill my bike from empty now.

Got a one piece clutch hub

Pulled the body panels off and did the clutch slave seal because that went wees everywhere.

Then pulled off the clutch cover.

And ya undo those screw things and pull the hat off and you can see the shitty two piece clutch hub. Long story but just know that it's there to give you a light clutch lever, and it increases clamp force as torque is applied to the clutch.

Ita a clunky horrible shuddery bunny hoppy piece of crap 

This is much nicer.

And put in some nice red oil. 

And today did about 200km with @64valiant to visit the guys at garlic masters. Such a good improvement, anyone with a gen 1 or 2 busa should do the one piece hub ASAP!

Man, I have no idea how people use those adjustable hand pieces.

I always advised that people try 4t (4 touch, the name makes no sense to me) when learning. This means one button press to start the arc, one button press to extinguish the arc. 

I found that for me personally it made keeping the correct angle  (EG when welding around a pipe) and staying smooth and consistent a whole lot easier. using the dial to control amps takes things too far in the other more difficult direction (just my opinion)

Your arms mechanics are not conducive to holding that button down and having smooth wrist control. This is made worse as many newcomers hold down the button too firmly (or the button on cheap handsets is that shit rubber dome that you have to press quite firmly)

You can try it yourself with a pen or dildo/whatever (Seriously though, try it), hold a pen and move your wrist and pen around in varying arcs. Then hold the pen but this time push a finger into the side of the pen as if you were holding down the tig button. Often you'll find that the second time will be a whole lot less fluid and often will be a little jerky or shaky in your movement. I can do it right now and my wrist kinda shudders through some angles if im also pressing the button (Though it has recently been broken lol). 

Damn that's unusual for one of those, bad luck

On 06/11/2021 at 14:11, johnny.race said:

Why?

Is it a trade secret?

On 25/11/2021 at 21:19, datlow said:

Assuming it filters the air or removes it from your environment I would imagine so

didn’t you say you had high levels of metal in your blood or some such?

farkin hell.. time to make serious changes if thats the case.

Maybe thats because people drink more coke than they should, and eat less apples than they should.

On 12/10/2021 at 15:12, SOHC said:

Thats why its good to not drink coke

And apples contain cyanide....what's your point.

5 hours ago, Geophy said:

Agree with KPR, 1.6 mild steel is the general rod

For stainless most of what I do is fine pipe work so I use a 1.2mm give a real tight weld. 

Have 2.4mm mild steel as a back up for big gap craft jobs or things requiring filling up. 

Stainless rod on mild steel is a good get out of jail card, its probably naughty but it welds yucky mild steel without going all poopy. Good if you are repairing old exhausts etc.

Really like the silicone bronze rods, makes pretty welds.

I know many pro welders that use a dab of stainless when shit gets bubbly.. never even seen a failure coz of it. 

Never used silicone bronze but looks so damn nice.

You'd like stainless stick welding. Super easy and it comes out delicious looking 

I had no issues procuring acid. A little surprising but meh... I'm not about to go there it in anyone's face so don't feel guilty.

Ps, Kim you provide the rubber gloves and safety glasses.

Then after that we can play with acid 

Found this photo from when it arrived. Is it what you need?

Pretty sure I have five liters of stuff sitting at work @Kimjon I'll grab it when I go in next. Just 90% or something so will need to figure out dilution.