NicT

Yea had an issue with bearings i hear, but we have an Accusump so hopefully that will negate any of those issues

It ran 340kw at the wheels in an EX lancer, Which with drive train loss is around the 500hp area. Come across a couple of issues with the maniflolds hitting shit, but that was to be expected. EX lancer engine bay isnt the same as a carina. Moving this around with all the turbo gear on it, it is still lighter then the 3rz....

I love that gif, i nearly spat out my drink when i saw it with laughter. Someone buy my RZ!

Plans change Going to build the car jointly with my old man Shit just got real

Sorry my friend but

Common one to use is the AE92 thermo housing. No idea what the SQ kit cost as martyn sourced it and handed it to me. I think the dizzy out the front looks rad, but thats just me. The COPs would mean going to aftermarket ecu. I know there is examples and what not on the internet about running COPs on the factory coil trigger so they all fire at the same time every time, but who knows how reliable that will end up being?

Really? Theres a large casting lump in the way of the drivers side mount, also a dowel pin needs to be removed from it. The engine mount wouldnt bolt up flush unless i skimmed it down. And we didnt have any other alternator bracket, just rwd or 20v blacktop. Blacktop has an intrusive part that hits the engine mount.

Somethings to note about the build: - Bought the last 2 valve collets in NZ as the head washer ate them - Bought the last under valve shim in NZ, again parts washer ate it - 2 Valve shims cost your left nut and took a long time to sort out due to under bucket shims. Need to measure this with a spring needle DTI and a very flat surface. You cannot use a micrometer and dont let anyone tell you otherwise even if they do work for toyota - Blacktop looms suck as they have intergrated EVERYTHING through the one loom, and the firewall gromet is resoned together so u cant pull the individual wires through - Working on such a well panelled car, buying $2.99 towels from the warehouse is a sound investment - Altho you can run a heater with a 20v, i wouldnt recomend it as the outlet is incredibly close to the dizzy cover (we used a blank off/relocator kit) - Engine mount needs to be modified - Blacktop 20v you can not run the rwd alternator bracket as the hydrolic tensioner fowels on it - Blacktop 20v Alternator bracket needs to be modified to clear the engine mount - Blacktop Starter motor is completely different to the RWD 16v one, you will need to use 16v Starter Not many issues for a conversion to be honest. We used the SQ engineering dizzy and water relocation kits. Expensive but the choice was made to get something industry proven.

I thought id put up a project thread of a car i have been working on for the last couple of months. This came to me with a possible electrical fault (misfiring under load) upon further investigation one of the ball bearings that sits in the oil galleries in the head had come out and the head was recieving no oil pressure. This caused the valves to bind on the guides and pushed 2 of them into the combustion chamber. This has lead to a full blacktop 20v rebuild and conversion. It is a factory Blacktop with Silvertop rods, all weighed, crack tested and balanced. All new parts were used and i have been very meticulious with this build taking longer then it should but i believe the end result will be worth it. Out of all the things i own, i do not own a printer!!!

This was infact trailer plug wires had come loose and right side indicator was touching park light wires.

Ive noticed a lot of my photos have died in my thread, i am trying to remedy this. Also have been asked what the other motor is and what the plan is. Motor is a 86,000 km 3rzfe from a 2004 Hilux, its the complete conversion inc fly, bell, clutch, loom, coilpacks, ecu etc etc, I even heard the truck running before it was removed. Plan: Stick it in factory NA and get the carina running so i can get on the track this summer, will keep everything even the yuck exhaust manifold and just see what it goes like. Next winter when i have garage space i will look at fitting a turbo then if i really feel i need more power.

Progress?

Thinking bad earth, will look into it more on my day off. Puts me in the shit cause i cant drive it at all at night time. Would like to also point out, the car has had no modifications or changes to it in 6 months, and i have driven it on the road every day for them. Everything is factory and unmodified. Definately going to start with the bulbs being easiest, then move to indicator stalk as i have a feeling its in the dash, considering if i unplug the headlights and headlight relay i still get the same fault if i turn the headlights "on"

Started the car up last night to come home from work (i work nightshift) and my drivers side indicator was stuck on, not flashing. When i indicate left the indicator works as per normal, when i indicate right there is no change. I had a look at it this morning and it only occurs when the headlights are turned on. When the car has no lights on the indicator works as intended but my dash does dim and brighten in time to the flashing. I pulled the dash to check the instrument fuses and relays. Everything is fine. When i turn the headlights on the indicator relay does not turn on, however when i indicator it doesnt turn on either, when i indicate left it works as intended. I switched this relay for another and it works fine. If i pull the headlight relay (so none of the night running lights work) and turn the headlights on the indicator comes on and stays on. This indicates that there is a short. But where could the short be? Anyone else had this issue before in any other vehicle? Going to pull the cluster this weekend when i get enough time and try work it all out, but some ideas on where to start would be rad. Cheers guys, Nic

Pukeko track day tomorrow

Always good to watch your projects, you never do things by halves. Also very keen to see that engine used more widely then the common EX Lancer conversions they end up (nothing against EX lancers i like them, but would be mean to see one in something else) Good luck!

Sadly it is, but i have 3 car covers over it. I know its just optimistic thinking they will work better then 1 car cover but thats ok helps me sleep easier at night. No no no nooo haha

Buddy, you know i work with CNC lathes all night. Lets talk, text me tomorrow

Interesting problem, the factory ECU should have a fuel pump relay output that should control the fuel pressure priming. What happens is when you turn the key in most EFI setups is the ecu will prime the fuel rail for 2 seconds, let it crank without the fuel pump running then start the fuel pump after the engine catches. However if the engine cranks for more then 3 seconds or so the ecu will engage the fuel pump relay and turn the fuel pump on depending on the ECU (age, car, brand, im only going off toyotas as this is 90% of what i have worked on) I wouldnt have thought that this would be a problem however as when i wired up some ECUS when i first started out, it is wired so the relay engages when the engine is cranking in the starter position then engage properly when the car is up and running in the on position (this is not ideal as when you have an accident the fuel pump will run even when the engine is not turning over so i have stopped doing this and run the fuel pump relay off the ecu now) cause i secretely love rx7s

Why ive made no progress on my car Hopefully get this thing running over the coming months and unleashed out on to society, then the carina can come home and i can start fabricating my exhaust manifold.

They are a riot to drive. This one is getting to the animal stages now. Does wicked heli's with 225's on it. This car really is my old mans labour of love. Hes had it for 16 years now.

Awesome

These solid rear? Holes in floor?