fishtailfred

Well, I put mine together the hard way, supplying all my own components and rolled in under 300 bucks. I also built my own stim, from scratch on prooto board. If you are super careful, you don't even really need a stim. Wire looms can be built on the cheap too. I wouldn't recommend the above route, but it's possible, and I did it, and it worked well for me. Yes, it will afaik. Even ms1 can do this, but only open loop works well. MS2 can do closed loop well, provided the PID algorithm isn't broken anymore, I think they fixed it after being told for literally a year that it was broken and denying it the whole time. I haven't answered ms questions for ages... I try to avoid it in favour of spending time making FreeEMS work better. I hope the above helps. There is heaps of documentation on msextra.com if you need more info on ms. Ignore the megamanual for everything but the basics, a twisted bitter old man called lance runs that and entirely ignores the presence of msextra - which is always what you want to run. Fred.

Yeah, it'll be fine, it's happy doing TBI because that's what it started life doing. The MS founders are very v8/tbi/os in their thinking and habits. The worst case is an overly rich idle, or in the extreme, an unstable idle. Early links have similarly low resolution. 1:1 cc of injector to cc of cylinder is about the break point, but you can run anything with anything if you are keen. I'm sure my truck would run OK as is on ms1 also, it'll just run better on ms2 and when I get it FreeEMSed it'll run better again Fred.

Also, I'd like to add that MS3 has recently been released. DO NOT BUY IT. Let other people find out all the stuff that is wrong with both the hardware and software. ms1/ms2/v2.2/v3.0 stuff is all well tried and tested and thus, we know how to make them work. All the ms stuff has had learning curves/debugging on customers cars, don't get involved in that, stick with something that is known to be awesome. Fred.

If EFI is set up right, you don't need dual maps. If you want to cruise, go easy on the pedal. Plant your foot and it'll squirt heaps of juice in there. + 1 to both things. By definition, you tune each zone to be most efficient, where efficiency could mean power (high load) or fuel (mid/low loads). One map is sufficient. If you wanted to run two fuels in the car, say alcohol some time and 98 the rest, two maps would be handy. In terms of link vs ms it's something like this : early link < ms1extra < middle link (don't ask me which ones) < ms2extra < newest links The late model links are very sophisticated ECUs, BUT, do you need that much grunt? MS2 is a very capable device. A few people in this thread have ridden in my untuned ute recently and can testify to the fact that it idles dead smoothly on 550cc injectors and makes shitloads of power. In fact, making power is the easy part, it's all the other parts of driving that are hard for an ECU. I still recommend buying a v3.0 board and ms2 chip, mostly. If you don't plan to make much power, then you can definitely get away with ms1. That twin turbo silver supra is ms1, as is the twin turbo vk 1uzfe commodore em_knaps just knocked out of his garage, and his 2jz hilux (4x4 miss this weekend, yes!!), and his t25 turbo frog and a dozen other ms cars he's built and/or tuned. All ms1. MS2 is definitely better though. If you are gunna use big injectors, get it. If you aren't, balance it against ms1. Jean from jbperf, who is an awesome dude, just released an expander for ms2 so that one of the old gripes, not enough pins, is now more or less history. MegaSquirt has it's issues, and not *just* politically, but it's still good if you put the time and effort in. As for FreeEMS, although it has now run a vehicle (1500km across the USA) it still isn't ready for prime time. With a bit of luck I may swap the ute over to FreeEMS fueling in the next few weeks or months, but I wouldn't hold your breath for a full featured stable device just yet. By the end of the year looks reasonable at this stage. I should get an update on the status of the project out in the next couple of weeks. I hope the above helps. Fred.

My logs were from Taupo, full circuit, R888 on the front, braking from 170kph at the end of the straight, comfortably. Properly wet, too. There may be better stuff for the wet, but I've never driven as fast in the wet on any other tyre as I have on those. It'd be a stretch to call them crap in the wet, regardless of what better is available. They are crap when cold, unbelievably, but then to expect a tyre that is designed to be warmed up to work cold is asking too much. Which comparable semis work better in the wet, tell me that Always keen to learn new things! Fred.

I've got datalogs to proove in excess of 1g on R888 in the wet. They work GREAT in the wet, but you have to have the confidence to keep pushing and keep them hot. I drove them on the street every day for 6 months too, you can't (well, I couldn't) get/keep them hot on the street in the wet, though, but the same went for the dunlops. Mean while, the dunlops are gone, and the r888s live on. There is simply no way I'd buy more d01js, no way at all The value for money just isn't there. Even if they were better (which I do not believe) they would have to be 50% better to account for the price difference, and there is no way that you'll go from pulling 1g to pulling 1.5g changing from r888 to d01j. no way at all. The above, and my previous post, are definitely my opinions, and not worth anything more than anyone elses. $350 for 225/50/15 d01j vs $230 for same size r888 - no competition IMO. At the nurburgring a bunch of gt3rs guys were running r888s on their cars and cutting mid 7 minute laps. They were complaining that they overheat a little and get slightly greasy, but those are heavy cars and that is a very fast track! Fred.

Fuck D01J, unless you are a targa car, why run dunlop at all? D01J is what I left on the roof of burgerfuel the other night while the Toyo R888s sat safely on the front. r888 = same or better grip, same or better feel, 2/3 the price, longer lasting. No competition really. And yes, I've run both, and yes on the same car, and yes, oddly, even on the same axle, dunlop locked and spun first every time. Fred.

Just something to consider for anyone using a foam filled cell with EFI/boost. When I was in the states, I went out for a drive in a friends body dropped air bagged rx7 IRSed twin cam etc b2000 and he was trying to spin some O's low on gas. We failed. The foam (in his tank, possibly different in others) stops sudden movements of fuel, but doesn't stop it moving to one side under steady state Gs. If using one of those, I'd still use a surge tank. Another thought on tanks that I had while at the nats was to just build it like I built my sump. A single sealed horizontal plate across close to the bottom with a central hole will prevent any slop/surge being seen by the pickup at the bottom. I'm planning to move away from the stock ute tank to a pair of s/s beer kegs with the above mentioned mod. I'll be retaining the surge tank too, though. My reaasons are keeping the variable weight closer to the centre of gravity, moving the tank out of the way of the diff arms that I need, picking up more capacity. I'll engineer my own level sender of some description when the time comes. Fred.

Thanks for owning up, sheepers. A bit of common courtesy wouldn't go astray though. Let someone know what you've done and why. Your laziness is not a mandate to remove valid technical material. Nor is your dislike of me and my "opinions". It is a fact that the contact patch is deformed by stretch or compression. Not my opinion. It is a fact that a deformed contact patch has less grip on the road than a non-deformed one. Not my opinion. The physical concepts that I presented that you carelessly deleted were also facts, not my opinions. Well articulated facts that I had put effort into explaining for the benefit of others. What it comes down to, is that you wasted my time. That, to me, is unacceptable. Thanks for the lesson to only put effort into my own sites and link out from there. Fred.

OK, WTF!!??? I carefully wrote an accurate technical description of why it's a problem and that is gone too, that is fucking out of line. Why would you remove good purely technical material from a technical section long after multiple people have responded to it and read it????? Someone out on a power trip? Someone having some PMS???? Someone just *trying* to wind me up? Fucking fail. If zep gives a shit aboout this site, he'll do something about this, poor form whoever did the "clean up". Pull your head OUT of your arse before it's too late. Fred.

I thought you had wasted enough time on this thread? I was getting called a douche bag, so I thought I had better clear up my stance. Key point, "more rigid". When you get down to a severe stretch you have no flex in them anymore, you simply have the tensile strength of the rubber and reinforcing and it's spring constant. This is infinitely stiffer than a stiff semi slick wall which is still flexible even though it is stiffer, so it doesn't do the same thing at all. I was thinking of linking this to you, do your 205 on 8" qualify or not? Fred.

BTW.. I'm not disagreeing with certain other things. I do think having a law for it is gay. I agree that low pressure is worse. I agree that excess loading is worse (i've delaminated tyres with excess loads on my ute before) I agree that there is no harm in a mild stretch with a high sidewall as stated with 14 inch example I probably agree with other things, too... But whinging a lot about the above list is contradictory to common sense with respect to good engineering. That is all, really Thanks for the GC vouch, too Fred.

Forced, excellent point re independence of gauges. I concur. http://www.facebook.com/pages/DIYAutoTu ... 932&ref=mf From the author himself! I stayed a night with him in the US and had a good chin wag. He's a good guy, very switched on and with the right attitude. The tuner studio author is more switched on as a businessman than anything else. I reverse engineered some of his code just to take a look and didn't really like the airy fairy way it was written, or the pop ups about paying hiim money that it generated. Tuner studio will almost certainly become pay per view at some point too. Best to be independent of it where possible. Cam, up in my face I want the stock four gauges, functioning. IE, gas level, speedo, tacho, coolant temp. PLUS, boost, oil pressure, AFR. Fuel pressure, oil temperature, batt v and accurace coolant can be down and out of the way. Fred.

I reckon you are right I haven't sat in an FC, but I've been in plenty of wrxs and a bat and cams silvia and it would thump all of those, in a straight line anyway. Once the gear ratios are sweet it should do it convincingly. I'm up for a legit late night motorway drag race whenever you are! Fred.

Good pics Yep, that's zep's gem! He disappeared fairly early on, though. Thanks, should be even meaner when done Good to see em_knaps supra on here I gave him the heads up to come, sweet car that. Fred.

Barf, that dash designer, is that tunerstudio? If so, those gauges suck compared to MegaTunix, give it a try, it now supports all the major firmwares except ms3 which has only just been released anyway. Cam, sure, on a race track, all of that is true, but on the street, you can get out of it, stare at them for a while, boost through a gear to try to force a condition, etc. Those minor faults with the ute really made me feel vulnerable (to damage) whereas if I'd been able to look down and check some of those parameters I could have stopped worrying and relaxed a bit more. I'm keen on the digi dash idea, 110% but I'd also like some dedicated hardware for the more essential stuff too. Positioning a huge screen without ditching the stock dash (something that I'm not going to do), is not easy, whereas a few critical items can be placed in easy viewing position with discreet units allowing the screen to goo in a more auxiliary location. BattV and AFR are two obvious ones, though I wouldn't put BattV in my face, rather inside a glovebox or on the EMS case or somewhere else more appropriate. Right now I own two EEE pc units, both nice ones, but the older one is pretty screwed having been dropped etc quite a few times. I'd be highly tempted to run one of these dismembered and embedded in the dash somehow, possibly with the screen flippable away. Another aspect of it is that each displayed quantity should definitely have out of range indicators on it. Say, black background for normal and red for too high, blue for too low or some such similar scheme. This ties into the warning light scenario but with more information available if you focus and just enough if you dont. Thanks for the input! Fred.

I put the thread up on diyefi, but I want to cast the net a little further than that, so read it there and reply where ever you want. http://www.diyefi.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=810 And yes, it was the three cylinder mishap and the running out of battery twice that got me worried and wondering about a few vital parameters. Any pics of your setups, esp stealth ones, appreciated! Fred.

Some nice clear middle of the day stills of the above videoed burnout : Worth a laugh Fred.

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=1 ... d7a25d2a3c Some of these really belong in the other thread, but they were taken today, so... Fred.

'Twas a great day just hanging out in the sun Som epic cars, favourites : Red Mazda 1200 ute Blue 240z Yellow flat deck 2jz lux Lots of other mean cars too, including two twin turbo 1uzfe setups, one supra, one soarer. Lots of LOLs as people walked past the front of the ute with the bonnet up and then did a double take LOL. I also have quite a few pics and will get them up shortly. Fred.

All good, google had a cached copy of the first page, I'll host it somewhere and link it at some stage. I hate bodged up history, really hate it. Fred.

Moved, sweet! Cleaned up??? :-/ You didn't erase legitimate history, did you? Please say no. Fred.

Footage of skid from inside the truck filmed by David : Not much to see, really, but there it is anyway. Fred.

The normal setup is pcv for the one that is connected to the intake tract and no valve for the other one. pointing at the road is fine, into a bottle fine, into a catch can, also fine. it *should* be routed to the intake pre throttle/turbo, but that's just so vapour from inside your engine gets reburned. You probably don't care enough to worry. I wrote this ages ago if the above isn't sufficient : http://www.diyefi.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=357 Fred.

Bump from the dead... A few of you bastards have seen this now, and a bunch more I met at Taupo, good times. I figure I should update the thread a little. -------------------------------------------- So, I arrived back on the 14th or 16th of November last year (09) at about 7am. By 1pm or so slacker.cam and I were boosting it up some back roads for a laugh I gave it a cylinder lube with CRC and then it fired up on the 3 year old gas on 3 cylinders, and came onto four after a minute or so of running. Not bad. Toluene doesn't lose it's octane rating with time given that it's pure solvent, so it was probably OK. I added the brake booster check valve - dangerous without this... I replumbed the wastegate line correctly - difficult to drive without this... I added an extra throttle return spring to be sure to be sure - safety measure... Some other minor shit. I blew the diff out of it doing 207kph with a slipping clutch and Uterus in it late one night. Turns out I only put 0.5l of oil in it about 4 years ago before the big power mods. woops. So now it has a new equally crappy ratio 4.444444 mig spec super locker/locked/solid lsdish thing which is good fun, sometimes. The LSD carrier got chewed up by the pinion gear sliding back into it... not good. Vid here : That was a day or two later when my step bro came up, we went out to do some skids and that happened... It was also pissing oil out pretty bad... I suspected wrongly that the rear main was installed, by me, incorrectly, so I pulled everything apart only to find tha tthe sump was the issue. Some dumb arse, me, had painted the mating surfaces when he put it together and the silicone had stuck to the paint. The paint hadn't stuck to the steel however and the oil was gushing out around the edges and dripping down through the bell like it was the rear main. Because of this I thought the clutch was wet with oil -- it wasn't. Turns out I got sold a stock rx7 turbo pressure plate as a HD unit - not cool, my fault though, probably. So I got autoclutch to upgrade it from 1360lb to 2430lb or something like that. I also got the organic disk that I had relined in carbon kevlar because two independent people said it would shit itself if I got some traction and dumped it hard. The carbon/kev is steel backed and physically stronger so wont fly apart under heavy load. With the new clutch, I went out alone the night I finished it and played around a bit. It turned out that the old clutch had been slipping in 3, 4 and 5, not just 4/5 as now it spins through 3rd mildly out to 110kph. It's controllable though, unless you turn the steering wheel at the time. Part of my playing was another shot at the top speed thing. From a stop to 210kph 7500 in 5th in about 17 seconds, you can argue the exact time if you like, but close enough, and the launch sucked. I'll be doing it on the gtech and better passenger held video again soonish. - terrible video, just the sound counts, really.Then I decided to pick up my step bro from the airport in it as he had requested, so did some quick hack work to make it a little more stealthy - I gave it sides/back. And I modified the deck a bit to improve it too. http://stuff.fredcooke.com/dscn0478.1024.jpg Then later that night I drove it over to the OS meetup... on 3 cyls... and did a burnout for the lads... on 3 cylinders... http://picasaweb.google.com/oldschool.c ... 4736417042 In between the airport and the OS meet I also bodgied up a power supply for one of the two fans to keep temps down while stationary/going slow - a rare occurance. I don't think I've forgotten anything. Most stuff on it is as it was 3 years ago. Lots of plans, but only low budget/free shit wil be getting done in the short term as I completely ran out of money recently and can't buy race seats or large front brakes yet. So, there you have it The ute thread bumped and updated in a fairly summary like manner. Fred.