fishtailfred

20w40 oils are crap, but the castrol gtx 20w50 is rated to the most modern standard. its ordinary, but good.

different viscosity can, and different milage (because of different age). also, if its an old engine with a diaphram fuel pump... that leaking will thin the oil out. that should be obvious though.

yeah, grab a multi way chinese 5ag holder and parallel them up with 60amp fuses. i swear mine was cheaper than that. i usually push for trade though (and look the part too ) so i may have had a discount. nice piece of gear though. the china method will work adequately. you just need it to not blow cranking, and blow below the rating of the cable you are using. circa 100amps per 10mm^2 for short term drain through cable. so if you use three 50amp 5ag fuses paralleled and 16mm cable you are good to go. bit ugly though, but could just be a temp solution. you might find two 60amps in a 2 way holder is enough too. how big/small is this engine, and what shape is the starter in?

^ what he said.

I did my 3/8 lines without a tool by hand, it was a bit of a cunt because of the size and the interaction between the cab and chassis/flat deck frame, but the smaller stuff is easy to bend even in steel. if you use steel, the flow of fuel through it will keep it cool whilst its running, and at shut down, it will only vapourise it at worst and push it out through the regulator. no O2 can get into the line, so it cant catch fire. rubber should only be used at each end to join hard parts that move relative to each other.

yup, diff = rear axle. 1 - 1.5 is pretty common across most light to medium vehicles. usually you just fill to overflow through the side filler hole, the level its at is that height on purpose.

castrol gtx is fine, its rated to the very latest performance spec unlike a lot of other 20w50 that you can buy. good basic choice.

that'll do the same thing as a broken one thats always reading cold. if its running super rich when warm, thats a likely culprit. call me blind though, i cant see how imitating the issue would help?

woops, didnt see that you were down there. this is them, any of those at all close? the marine shop i usually go to on the shore didnt have anything like it. i dont know how common they are, this place is for flash yachts and stuff... : http://www.lustyandblundell.co.nz/index ... bgroup=102 there you go, theres the range : http://www.lusty-blundell.co.nz/index.c ... ku=7100CBS fred.

i dont know about legally, but consider that you dont need to crash, just some chafing over a few months could burn you and your precious car. trouble is that depending on how efficient your starter is, and how big/small your engine is, you'll need 100 - 200 amp of breaker/fuse to stop it blowing/tripping while you are cranking. i used a marine circuit breaker at 100amps from the place next to supacheap in albany, but my starter is an efficient late jap one with gear reduction in it. from memory it was about 40 bucks or so. could be off with that though. http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_4168.jpg thats it.

i didnt know you could buy that to mix yourself! good link. cheers. i filled mine with windscreen urethane just to keep the freeplay to a minimum, and it helped no end both with the cab mounts and motor/box mounts, but it wont last forever (skyline subframe went about 1 year before falling out and clunking a lot) and isnt as solid as it could be done properly.

i was going to say that its kinda a cross between a rubber and plastic and not really either, but then it occured to me that rubber is probably a plastic of sorts too.

got a pic of it? sweet

rt, if in auckland on the shore rex castors have urethane in diff hardness/sizes etc, and can cast for you too. if you supply moulds etc, its not too expensive.

sweet all under control! cool car!

a common problem is that the carbon conductors in the cop coils break down and give weak spark. that can have the effect of retarding it and giving weak power. if its running rich though, the afm or injectors are wrong or broken i would think. but it could be the coolant temp sensor thats disconnected or grounded making it think its always cold (hence runs right till it warms up) a dodgy knock sensor could also cause it to fully retard the ign giving no power and a hot exhaust/turbo. those are my thoughts on it. fred.

gotcha, it must have been an open type then, not a semi sealed. the semi sealed ones only vent when they are overcharged. i'm not saying the vapours wont rust, just that you wont get liquids coming out whilst its still upright. least not on a well designed one thats not overfilled etc. gel batteries are great for longevity and upsidedownness, but they have to be charged at a lower rate and voltage or they pop seals and dry up. they last 10 - 20 years, thats why they are so good. ours in our boat were 2nd hand and about 8 years old, and only got replaced about a year ago after being in there for a decade. you dont really need that in a car ie, it wont kill you if it goes flat randomly and you need a jump/roll/replacement. in a boat at the wrong time it will. fred.

fell on its side = wasnt screwed down well enough.

yeah, if its a straight piece you need to shorten, cant see why not. cut twice, tidy up insides, but together, hold with earth clamp, tack two sides, stitch betweentacks overlapping them to ensure a good seal. if you wanna get flash, fill the tube with welding gas first. that way the inside of the joint will be mint too. other than that, just dont grind down the weld. heres my turbo oil drain done the same way, except a more convoluted shape : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_4280.jpg needed a friend to hold that as the clamp couldnt do it... that one started out straight and long. fred.

ok, not from mr fraser you cant, least, thats what he told me. i didnt know they had different rules on it though. thats good to know. cheers.

the mig would sort that out quickly. make sure the penetration is there from beginning to end though as the overlaps can end up with leaks otherwise and you dont want it sucking air in!

cheers man, just you wait till i get my teeth into the vw! have to finish this first. needs brakes. has m1166 pads on brand new brembo rotors, and they dont fade, but by christ, they get HOT like never before, and just wouldnt last. stock rotors are 253x20 on them. i LOVE your little suzy. its so cool!

you may have said this, but i missed it, are you going to run itbs? the sound of that thing on itbs would be AMAZING should sound pretty awesome anyway though. more cylinders = better! you should look up the 1gzfe toy v12 (5l) its pretty cool. hand tested with stethoscopes to ensure it is quiet enough.

LOL, that care is AWESOME !! i've never seen anything like it. i LOVE how small it is! gsxr swap to keep it in the family? i doubt i'd fit inside it though. i'm 6'1" and dont even fit inside a capachino.

i have the original owners manual for my 61 bug, and along with telling you how to sit and hold the wheel properly, i swear it suggests oil based on climate like modern cars do. cant beat a 0w30 when you are heading home from skiing. if yours was spitting it out, i bet your clearances were on the loose side. for most ppl 15w40 is a good choice, for most people on here, 20w50 is probably best. still, depends on a lot of things. if you've just rebuilt an engine and the break in period is over, i'd be running a synthetic for sure, even if its a 1900 design. viscosity wise would depend on climate, usage and design of the valve train.